Dallasmavs92

iTrader: (1)

I have an 06 track with 144k, and the tranny was replaced about 10k miles ago with paperwork to back it up. However, normal driving conditions its fine. If I redline her the clutch pedal sticks about an inch down, (not enough to engage the plates I believe) but it doesn't pop back up like it did in my 04 did.

Also, if I take it up to high rpm and try to shift quickly it'll grind like a *****. I'm not sure if this is related to the pedal sticking or not. Again this is all in the high rpm range (6-7200) normal driving isn't effected.

Toneloc

Master slave is going out... Replace it

Dallasmavs92

iTrader: (1)

Follow up : master replaced, slave replaced, fluid replaced and still sticks. I'm following the bleed procedures of pumping the clutch 10-20 times, holding and then opening the bleeder for a split second and then closing it. FSM states pressure bleeders are not to be used on these systems.

When I let the fluid out, it comes out looking like spit (not sure how else to put it?) Very fine bubbles. I bled it probably 20-30 times and it continued. Thoughts?

PDX_Racer

iTrader: (2)

If you've got bubbles, you've still got air in the line.

As a two-person job, pump up the clutch, push in the clutch, open the bleeder valve and let the clutch push the fluid out of the slave cylinder.

Dallasmavs92

iTrader: (1)

I did it maybe 20 times yesterday and every single time it it was very fine bubbles. Could it take more than that?

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

If you went reman master and slave its not far fetched to think you got a dud...

Or you may have a leak in the fittings...try tightening them a bit and see if it helps.

mkiv20vt

There is still air in the system. Try this....

Get a friend(person 1) to help you(person 2) with the following:

Step 1: Person 1 pump the clutch five times. Is the pedal returning?

Step 2: On the fifth pump let person 2 know to crack the bleeder for split second then close. By the time you've reached the bottom of pedal travel, person 2 should have cracked the bleeder and closed it. (there should never be a time when the pedal is returning up and the bleeder is cracked. This introduces air into the system. Think of breathing).

-Rinse and repeat the previous step until the pedal feels firm and returns as normal. ALWAYS CHECK THE MASTER. Refill after every 2 cycles.

Person 2 should see the "spit" effect for a while until all air is out of the system. After a few times of step 2, the stream then looks like a pressurized line with fluid spewing out at consistent pressure.

Once pedal is firm and returns, top off master and go for a test drive.

This may take awhile. It all depends on where the air is in the system.