Signaling "click sound" stopped working. BCM problem?
Hi! I have a problem with a couple of things. When I had my car at the workshop and picked it up a few small things in my car had stopped working. Told the guy about it all but he claims he hasn't touched anything that has to do with these functions. They all stopped working at the same time so I'm wondering if they could all be connected somehow.
1. The "click-click" that sounds when I signal left or right does not work.
2. The arrows in the dashboard does not blink when I signal left or right.
3. The signal lever does not return after I have made a turn with the indicator on, I have to turn it back manually.
4. When I have driven the car, turned it off and open the door with the main light switch on there used to be a warning sound. This does not work.
5. The diode for the alarm does not work.
But all the indicators work on the outside, nothing wrong there. I read about a year ago in some forum that all these functions are controlled by the BCM (body control module), located near the fuse box down by the pedals (I think).
Some people I've talked to say that the click-sound is some kind of relay, but since all of these functions stopped working at the same time I'm thinking it's the BCM. I've also heard that the BCM cannot just be changed, it has to be coded to the exact car with a computer or something.
I appreciate all input!
/Markus
1. The "click-click" that sounds when I signal left or right does not work.
2. The arrows in the dashboard does not blink when I signal left or right.
3. The signal lever does not return after I have made a turn with the indicator on, I have to turn it back manually.
4. When I have driven the car, turned it off and open the door with the main light switch on there used to be a warning sound. This does not work.
5. The diode for the alarm does not work.
But all the indicators work on the outside, nothing wrong there. I read about a year ago in some forum that all these functions are controlled by the BCM (body control module), located near the fuse box down by the pedals (I think).
Some people I've talked to say that the click-sound is some kind of relay, but since all of these functions stopped working at the same time I'm thinking it's the BCM. I've also heard that the BCM cannot just be changed, it has to be coded to the exact car with a computer or something.
I appreciate all input!
/Markus
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,625
Likes: 1,394
From: Aurora, Colorado
Also put this on your post at the "other" Z site: Before you take any action, I'd suggest getting a more accurate diagnoses on exactly what is wrong. Use a code reader that has the capability of reading the BCM for any codes which would help pinpoint what is going on. Most Nissan dealers have a CONSULT III unit, which might be worth the hour or so of shop time it costs to hook it up. I use UpRev's Cipher system to pull codes on the Z racecar all the time, and also erase them to verify if the repairs actually fixed the problems.
Whatever you do, don't just start replacing parts left and right on a guess. The Z has a sophisticated diagnostic system in place- USE IT.
Whatever you do, don't just start replacing parts left and right on a guess. The Z has a sophisticated diagnostic system in place- USE IT.
Also put this on your post at the "other" Z site: Before you take any action, I'd suggest getting a more accurate diagnoses on exactly what is wrong. Use a code reader that has the capability of reading the BCM for any codes which would help pinpoint what is going on. Most Nissan dealers have a CONSULT III unit, which might be worth the hour or so of shop time it costs to hook it up. I use UpRev's Cipher system to pull codes on the Z racecar all the time, and also erase them to verify if the repairs actually fixed the problems.
Whatever you do, don't just start replacing parts left and right on a guess. The Z has a sophisticated diagnostic system in place- USE IT.
Whatever you do, don't just start replacing parts left and right on a guess. The Z has a sophisticated diagnostic system in place- USE IT.
It's kind of hard to explain, and I bet none of you has seen this before haha... Neither have I, but for me to easily put the original gauges in place, he extended the wires and tucked them in a tube. It all works great, but it was after this that all my mentioned problems occured. I think he must have done SOMETHING to screw it up, but he claims he didn't and takes no responsability for it
I put the stock gauges in place yesterday. Kinda ghetto, I know, haha... But it's just for the inspection of the car to show that no warning lights are on etc. The picture is taken with the phone down on the floor mat, pointing up.
The second picture is how I put the original gauges for the car inspection. Haven't done it yet though, need to fix the turn indicator thing first. Looks kinda good right?! Hahaha...
Interesting.....do I see the word "Turbo" behind the left side of the gauge cluster?
Nonetheless, your problem is 100% attributable to the wiring associated with that gauge cluster setup. If those boxes and wires behind the dash don't play nice with one another, you'll have issues such as yours. It's an unorthodox setup, so it's hard to specify the issue. I'm guessing the original cluster is always working and is somehow paralleled to the custom gauges....? Regardless, I doubt you can get much recourse from that mechanic (not that you'd want him working on it anymore), because there's presumably no known standard to refer to - except that it worked before he touched it.
I'd take this as an opportunity to redo it. Maybe build a matching box to hold the stock cluster in some complimentary fashion with a more stout wiring setup.
Good luck with it.
Nonetheless, your problem is 100% attributable to the wiring associated with that gauge cluster setup. If those boxes and wires behind the dash don't play nice with one another, you'll have issues such as yours. It's an unorthodox setup, so it's hard to specify the issue. I'm guessing the original cluster is always working and is somehow paralleled to the custom gauges....? Regardless, I doubt you can get much recourse from that mechanic (not that you'd want him working on it anymore), because there's presumably no known standard to refer to - except that it worked before he touched it.
I'd take this as an opportunity to redo it. Maybe build a matching box to hold the stock cluster in some complimentary fashion with a more stout wiring setup.
Good luck with it.
Interesting.....do I see the word "Turbo" behind the left side of the gauge cluster?
Nonetheless, your problem is 100% attributable to the wiring associated with that gauge cluster setup. If those boxes and wires behind the dash don't play nice with one another, you'll have issues such as yours. It's an unorthodox setup, so it's hard to specify the issue. I'm guessing the original cluster is always working and is somehow paralleled to the custom gauges....? Regardless, I doubt you can get much recourse from that mechanic (not that you'd want him working on it anymore), because there's presumably no known standard to refer to - except that it worked before he touched it.
I'd take this as an opportunity to redo it. Maybe build a matching box to hold the stock cluster in some complimentary fashion with a more stout wiring setup.
Good luck with it.
Nonetheless, your problem is 100% attributable to the wiring associated with that gauge cluster setup. If those boxes and wires behind the dash don't play nice with one another, you'll have issues such as yours. It's an unorthodox setup, so it's hard to specify the issue. I'm guessing the original cluster is always working and is somehow paralleled to the custom gauges....? Regardless, I doubt you can get much recourse from that mechanic (not that you'd want him working on it anymore), because there's presumably no known standard to refer to - except that it worked before he touched it.
I'd take this as an opportunity to redo it. Maybe build a matching box to hold the stock cluster in some complimentary fashion with a more stout wiring setup.
Good luck with it.
But don't blame me, it was all there when I bought it and I don't really feel like molding a new glass fiber dash so... 
And you're right about what you say, there is no reference to how it was done in the first place. I'm not very good with electronics at all, so I just want it to work properly like it did before.
I have booked a diagnose at my local Nissan dealer next week. We'll start with two hours to see if they can come up with some kind of error code or something. Hopefully that will sort it out, but since there are A LOT of modifications on this car, both looks, engine and electronics, I probably shouldn't get my hopes up too much.
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