i have taken my 08 350z to two different mechanic twice already! the first said i was having either oil pressure or a sensor might be out and did a flush and has reset it 3 times. I decided to get a second opinion, the second mechanic is saying that they can't access the check engine light problem because of a software issue and only nissan can have further access? he said my computer can't access the software and has to go to a dealer. I don't want to go to a dealer so if somebody could please help me avoid this you would be a god. all i want to do is get the check engine light off so i can get my state inspection

 

What exactly is going on????????? There's like no information in your post. Something to do with oil pressure i presume? What is your gauge doing? Reading max psi, no psi etc???? Also, your CEL is on?? Did you already run the free scanner on it at an auto zone or auto parts store?

In for reply.

 

i am sorry. i should be more detailed. basically i need to get my check engine light off. i took it to two mechanics. one mechanic was saying something about it being oil pressure or a cam sensor. he did an oil flush and it turned off. after 5 miles it came back on. i took it to another mechanic and basically he said he had spent all day on it and that the think that it might be on due to a software issue. he is saying that he can't access the computer to diagnose the problem and that only a deanship would have the tools and software to find out what it is. I REALLY DONT WANT TO GO TO A DEALERSHIP!

 

have you ever heard of a light being on because of a software issue??

 

What is the code that is being thrown?

 

p0014

p0024

 

Both of those codes refer to issues with cam timing being off - either bad cam sensors, a wire is loose, or problems with the variable valve timing.

Is the engine hard to start, or run rough, bad acceleration, etc?

 

From the 2 minutes of research I did typing in the codes on google, it looks like you need to do the exhaust valve timing relearn. If that doesn't fix it, then the front**** timing covers need to be replaced.

How long have you had the car? And how often has the oil been changed since you have had it? Many indications point to people not doing proper oil changes on it.

In for reply.

 

^ This.

p0014 is a Bank 1 fault (cam timing, components, VVT operation)
p0024 is a Bank 2 fault

These are the generic OBD II codes. Nissan/Infiniti's "interpretation" of these codes involves more than just the generic components associated with cam/valve timing as described by OBD.

With Nissan/Infiniti, these types of faults with the cam timing do NOT generally involve electronic components. Sounds like this might be a case of oil leakage at both front and/or BACK timing cover. (Or some other source of faltering oil pressure) This can cause low oil pressure to the intake sprockets, which, in turn "influences" the exhaust side to "fail" since they take their cue from the intake side and basically shut down.

And turn on that dreaded CEL.

If you have a Nissan specialist in your area, I'd consult with them or if that's not the case, it could very well be a dealer consult/diagnostic/fix (if you aren't doing it yourself. Sorry for that. While the VQ engines are generally easy to work on (besides the tight fit), it takes a Nissan specialist (or generally someone familiar with the idiosyncrasies of the VQ motors) to get it RIGHT. (No disrespect intended on the two mechs you already consulted with but...)

But not all dealers are bad. Ask around....local Z/Nissan clubs that sort of thing. Or ask here in the general section.

Good luck.

 

Absolutely. OBD II is all software (obviously running on some type of firmware and attached to input from all the sensors all over the car).

But I suspect he meant HIS software couldn't deal with the specific Nissan "interpretation" (see my previous post above) of just what p0014 and p0024 entail.

If they were a decent shop (again, no disprespect intended on them as I don't even know them), they'd simply access AllData for the specific Nissan troubleshoot based on the generic codes - which are there to point to the general fault area, not the exact problem.

Every manufacturer uses the same general OBD II code structure but have specific components they relate to when such a code is thrown.

I have a Volvo.... ask me about OBD II codes and what it takes to understand what they mean (DICE/VIDA).... whew... Sometimes makes me wanna just go back to building hot rods. big pistons, ONE camshaft, big a$$ carburetors and the only sensors anywhere are the water temp sensor and fuel float in the tank

 

You issue is electronic, unless you've had the timing chain replaced recently. P0014 and P0024 are exhaust valve timing codes. The exhaust cam timing in an '08 350Z is electronically controlled, not related to oil pressure. Oil pressure only controls the intake cams. Possible causes:

• Crankshaft position sensor (POS)
• Camshaft position sensor (PHASE)
• Exhaust valve timing control position sensor
• Exhaust valve timing control magnet retarder
• Accumulation of debris to the signal pick-up
portion of the camshaft
• Timing chain installation
• Exhaust valve timing control pulley assembly

Take it to the dealer or to a tech that has an advanced scan tool, like a Snap-On Verus Pro. They need to monitor the timing at idle and at 2,500rpm. Then monitor the actuator duty cycle.

 

I went to Kingston Nissan in Kingston N.Y. and in ten minutes they told me that the light was on because of my gears/tires, and the computer had a problem reading it and that made the engine light go on.

They said no problem and gave me an inspection sticker.

I guess you like doing things your way

 

Very interesting i8acobra. Learn something new every day.

I was under the (apparently uninformed) impression that the earlier VQ engines (which I have and was researching last year when the same issue came up somewhere else) also had the same type of electronic controls.

And that the exhaust timing still took its actuation cues from the intake side. If that's true, then if there is a problem on the intake side, the exhaust side would then be "sympathetic" to an intake timing error and fail, throwing the code.

Your description sounds reasonable but what seemed odd to me is that both bank 1 and bank 2 are throwing identical codes (but for the location of the bank sensors) which led me to believe that not BOTH banks would have e-sensors trigger codes simultaneously.

Will be interesting to find out the actual outcome of this.

OP, please do let us know what you find out.

Mic

 

I am a cynic at heart, but that sounds like a load of Bee Ess to me. I have been around cars my entire life and have never heard of gears/tires throwing a SES/Check Engine Light. So - is your light still on? Did they suggest a fix? Curious minds want to know....

 

You could put massive 36" wheels on there and the engine won't throw a CEL.

Your speedo will be off, your DTE calculation will mostly likely be off and ditto with mpG...but CEl nah

 

That never happened to my 04 & 08 Z's but when I went to inspect my 370z there was a light on. All they did was scan with a held hand scanner and the answer came back that the computer was reading the rear vs the front wheels as not matching/spinning ?? like they should. The service writer said no big deal and gave me an inspection sticker.

Some time later(months), that light disappeared....

 

I have a 2012 370z Automatic. That day the dealer put my manual trans. 08 Z's 3:90 gears(pumpkin) into my 2012 370 Z's automatic. The Auto came with stock 3:23 gears(I believe). After that swap the light came on. Due to my head trauma I wasn't that clear in my first post.

100% true.... The gears of the 08 pumpkin didn't match up(Teeth number or spaces??) but since the 370's pumpkin was already out, we made the switch and everything worked fine. I even went drag racing which I posted about.

That & Test Pipes produces 13.00 to 13.3's MPH 105 to 107 depending if cool or warm air weather. Times done with leaving it in D drive & starting at idle.

 

I did read somewhere if you changed your tire size away from normal staggered, that the SLIP light would come on since the calculation would be wacky...not sure what the fix was other than going back to stock wheel diameters.