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So I don't know much about cars and I'm starting to learn so I have a question about alignment on a 350z.
My mechanic said there is no way to adjust camber or caster on these cars and that only toe can be adjusted.
He said to adjust:
Toe: Tie Rods
Camber: Buy camber bolts/kit
Caster: He said it wasn't adjustable
I have posted a picture of my alignment before and after the procedure (performed by another mechanic). Mechanic said ideal is to have these values at 0 but it's okay if they are symmetrical. Are these values acceptable (minus the red parts of course):
After alignment
[B]Before alignment[/B]
Driving in Canadian winters means never having a clean car
The issue I'm facing here is that I need a new ball joint for my passenger side. My car was in a crash before I bought it and there is an aftermarket ball joint on the driver side and an OEM one on the passenger side (or is it vice versa... I don't know what OEM ball joints look like).
Either way, I was wondering if ball joints affect alignment?
So I don't know much about cars and I'm starting to learn so I have a question about alignment on a 350z.
My mechanic said there is no way to adjust camber or caster on these cars and that only toe can be adjusted.
He said to adjust:
Toe: Tie Rods
Camber: Buy camber bolts/kit
Caster: He said it wasn't adjustable
I have posted a picture of my alignment before and after the procedure (performed by another mechanic). Mechanic said ideal is to have these values at 0 but it's okay if they are symmetrical. Are these values acceptable (minus the red parts of course):
[Pics edited out]
The issue I'm facing here is that I need a new ball joint for my passenger side. My car was in a crash before I bought it and there is an aftermarket ball joint on the driver side and an OEM one on the passenger side (or is it vice versa... I don't know what OEM ball joints look like).
Either way, I was wondering if ball joints affect alignment?
Syner is correct that toe is the only adjustment possible on a stock front end, key word being "stock".
What I'd suggest is getting the faulty ball joint replaced and have the alignment re-checked (which should be the default when doing any kind of front end work but alas, some shops will charge for it - unless you've purchased a "lifetime alignment").
You'll likely find that the bad caster angle will have been corrected. (Depending on extent of crash damage)
All of your other measurements are OK and well within nominal range.
However, if/when you alter the suspension geometry (lowering/raising suspension), you'll find that it's very likely necessary (not always) install adjustable components to allow for adjustment back to spec range to yield true improvements in handling and saving your tires from useless camber wear.
Your tech is nearly 100% right on saying that you can purchase a "kit" to correct for front and rear camber but saying caster is not adjustable is not entirely correct.
SPC Adjustable UCA:
With adjustable UCAs (specifically SPC and SPL and others), not only is camber adjustable but caster can also be soft adjusted (to a degree and not guaranteed to be able to bring crash damaged suspension back into spec).
On the rear, caster is a non-starter and hence, only camber is adjustable using aftermarket (see above) adjustable camber links (AKA, the non-adjustable lower link).
All in all, you're not that far out of spec so don't worry about it as your alignment tech looks to have it pretty much under control.
OP, are your sure you have a "bad" ball joint or is the aftermarket ball joint just a suspected cause of your messed up caster?
Both Compression Arm and Lower Control Arm bushings can fail on the Z, and will mess up your alignment when they fail.
2.2 camber in the rear is just a hair out of spec. After they verify that nothing is broken back their, I would just ask them to make the other side match, or at least bring it to 2.1. (The edge of spec, and closer to the other side)
Thanks all for the replies and information. I am suffering trying to find the right ball joint for an 06+ because they upgraded to thicker material and I don't really want to spend $500 at the dealer for a spindle + ball joint as they don't sell them separately.
The problem I had was this:
It looks like the tire was chewed through from excessive camber. When my alignment specialist said he "couldn't get the front right end right" I assumed it was because my car was in a crash and it had an aftermarket ball joint in the passenger side. However, my mech said it looks like OEM.
Mine is on the left:
However, I did buy a brand new front lower right control arm so once I get the right ball joint I will get my mech to put both parts in and hopefully I won't have excessive camber wear issues. There is some play in the wheels as I drive along, I can feel it like very minute bumps.
02-11-2015, 06:58 AM
2006 Alignment
