Whenever I drive and try to really accelerate my car revs to a ridiculous rpm around 6-8k before it drops back down to the normal reving ranging to accelerate..
Example: 4th gear 50mph 3k rpm, press on the throttle maybe 60-70% and it will rev to 7k and still be at 55mph before catching and accelerating..

 

You having any clutch engagement problems? (Jerking, stuttering, needing to rev engine higher to start, etc?) Sounds like a slipping clutch to me.

 

Yea sounds like your clutch is F'ed...That would be the first thing I would look into.

 

Well I'm not really sure because this is my first manual, I never really bogged it out or killed it very much but it's been seven months and this is the first time anything has gone wrong.

I haven't needed to rev my car higher to start it. The car revs super high like it isn't getting power to the wheels..

Should I look for an OEM clutch or any after market recommendations?

 

Well I'm not really sure because this is my first manual, I never really bogged it out or killed it very much but it's been seven months and this is the first time anything has gone wrong.

I haven't needed to rev my car higher to start it. The car revs super high like it isn't getting power to the wheels..

 

Should I look for an OEM clutch or any aftermarket recommendations?

 

Aftermarket, jwt package is what I have and love it!

 

My clutch was the same way.I just had my clutch replaced today. I got the Jwt clutch kit and Z1 trans mount installed.. I need to learn how to drive the car all over again lol.

 

Eep that doesn't make me feel better... How much was it cost wise?

 

I will def look into it. Shop in the morning...

 

Well the kit was 775 shipped and the mount was about 100. Also had the system Bled.Labor was 600(Was 700 but I had a coupon) at the dealership. So all together about 1500 for everything.

It feels great but its very different.. My clutch was so gone tht the last inch is when it engaged and now its like it engages the 1st inch n a half. Just 100% different feel(a good one).. Felt stupid stalling 3 times getting home

 

Whew! Loaded question.

Here's the deal.... Choosing the right clutch is a lot like buying a pair of shoes.

You have a dressy night out, you buy a pair of Ferragamos (or name your poison, my wife chooses Jimmy Choo shooz....but I digress... )

Conversely (no pun actually intended), you're going to compete in a marathon or shoot some hoops or whatever, you go with some type of athletic shoe, again, take your pick of fav brand.)

Point is, you buy a clutch for the intended purpose. If you drive to work and back, maybe cruise around on the weekends and push your car a little, go with a stock (OEM or a slightly uprated aftermarket unit), full face plate replacement.

You want to autocross or attend an HPDE, you might go with a high compression spring pressure plate and a different compound full face clutch that can take the abuse. Or, if your predilection is even more towards AX/Solo/track than street (say, 75%+), you might even want to go with a puck clutch. (That's assuming you're running outside Stock classes with higher power/torque, etc.)

But know that just because one of the above "performance" clutches is good for race, does NOT necessarily make it good for the street due to any number of things that accompany them, higher pedal pressure required to actuate, and/or, if you go with a lighter flywheel, replacing the stock DM (dual mass) flywheel - the usual accompanying component if you're racing at all - you will LIKELY experience a bit more NVH, shudder/judder while getting underway on the street. Not fun for a DD.

Note: This isn't ALWAYS the case but be forewarned.

That all said, a good dual purpose unit (no personal experience but my son has one in his car and likes it a lot) is the South Bend Stage 1. It's an OEM replacement but is geared more towards performance. Heavy duty rated, highly sprung PP, alleged better friction materials and most important to him, no increase in pedal pressure. When I replace mine, I'll be strongly considering that one (or maybe the uprated Stage 2 unit) as my OEM (original) clutch has held up to many weekends of canyon/mountain running and it's still going strong, making my upgrade to something that may denigrate the relative comfort of driving it on the street rather senseless. FOR *ME* and YMMV!

But - and here's the caveat - do NOT throw parts at the car to try and fix the problem based on what you read here. Everything you read here is suspect until someone actually puts hands on the car and/or physically runs down all the possibilities!

If it's beyond your capabilities, take it to a reputable shop (or dealer) and have it professionally diagnosed. Just cuz there's a bunch of gearheads here with fingers replaced with ratchet wrenches, never shy away from seeking professional help! <====Read that as you wish.

Good luck!

 

Shops says clutch and flywheel are goners

 

Yeeesh, not fun but a fact of life....

I don't work for nor am I a paid hack for any of these people but check out the site sponsor sites. I've done biz with a few of them and the ones I've done biz with have been righteous.

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Good luck!

Mic

 

I changed out my flywheel and clutch last Jan. It is my DD but gets some spirited driving.
I bought an exedy oem(ish) clutch and PP, and a nismo flywheel. Lose some weight, but not get horrible chatter. Over a year and about 20k miles on it, I am very happy with it. I do have to do estimates for work, so I rack up miles on my car.