OdesiTT

Hi!
Don't flame me, I searched well, but I found nothing that fit my profile.
So, few days ago was a heavy rain with some flood. I tried to get home and its took 1.5 h under the rain in heavy traffic. Same day in the evening I was waiting for my girlfriend and forgot to turn off the headlights while seat inside of the car, so it's discharged my battery but surprisingly faster then its have to.
Anyway, I jumped my car and went home. Next day it was very hard to start it, but after few attempts and pray to Satan I finally did it.
At work I put it on charge and after less then hour battery was fully charged and car started perfectly.
I checked altenator - 14-14.05 on the idle.

Looks like its an altenator grounding(also I made a grounding to negative connection, but didn't grounded altenator, so it's still have OEM ground.)
The question is: where is that altenator grounding is, and is it possible to damage it in the heavy rain? Or it's something else?

jdm-v35

iTrader: (7)

if you kill the battery it can damage it making it not hold a charge very long. Thats what it sounds like. if it runs fine when its on, its most likely bad battery.

OdesiTT

It's not really runs well. Even my girlfriend asked me, is my tires low. One more weird thing: when Im downshifting from 4 to 3rd(AT manual mode) and pressing accelerator right after that, rates folling and car almost stalling, but if I continuing to press acceleratior, its coming back to the normal rates and then it's runs well, like nothing ever happened.

Also, conditioner make it runs terrible and making alot of annoying noise.

P.S.: battery was not completely dead, but it couldn't start the car anymore.

jdm-v35

iTrader: (7)

still sounds like bad battery. just sounds like its not holding a charge properly. But the other problems will be caused by something else. Sounds like you have multiple issues that need to be fixed but it is hard to figure it out unless you're very descriptive. Also, better grammar would help as your descriptions are pretty confusing.

OdesiTT

I apologize for my english, as you can see it's not my native language, but I'm trying hard to do my best.

As it appeared, I was right about grounding. I changed some grounding wires, and also cleaned surfaces with a sandpaper, and now its runs amazing and holding the charge well.
Curious that my voltage, according to the gauge always was above 14, I would say around 15. Now it's straight 14. Im not sure its good or bad. Where is the needle at your voltage gauge?

SQuaLZ

I also think you should first change the battery and then go from there.

How old is the battery?

Vigman

If you cannot afford a new battery at lease pull your old one and take it to Auto Zone or Pep boys or other "chain store " they can load test it for you... that is the ONLY way to prove a battery is up to snuff. the OTHER Oh by the way is people put REALLY crazy NON OEM battery connectors that MOSTLY are NFG.... So do you have OEM battery connectors, are they CLEAN and TIGHT and is the battery load tested and OK?? Then once all those facts are in place you can proceed... Is the problem it will not CRANK OR IT WILL CRANK AND NOT FIRE UP...? Stick or Auto ??

jdm-v35

iTrader: (7)

glad you got it fixed. My voltage is usually between 13-14 I would still take a look at the battery or get it checked out in case it may be damaged as others have also said. But I had a similar grounding problem myself and will be redoing all my grounds.

OdesiTT

Thank you for reply! It's cranking, but pretty hard. However, it spinning engine fast enough, but car doesn't start. Voltage is OK. Connections OEM, clean and tight(at least negative).
When car finally starts, its have a very low growl for about 1sec and rates going down a little but then coming back to normal idle speed.
I took off my sparkplug from 1 cylinder just to check the piston and spark plug condition, and maybe I didn't connect it well, but I don't think so. But again, it's cranking fast but don't want to start, if the charger is plugged or somebody jumping it -- it starts just fine.

Vigman

Well I assume you have checked the positive connection and removed any corrosion.

If you can jump start & the car is " fine " that points to a weak battery OR High resistance in one of the 2 cables ( + / - ). You stated you cleaned you have cleaned the grounds..

I would re inspect both sides...

Do you still have the original factory batt terminals?
Are the bolts that connect the terminal to the 4 fusible links tight??
Do you have access to an OHM METER and know how to use it??

Mike

jdm-v35

iTrader: (7)

sounds like same problem I had. Bad engine ground. everything else will work fine but ignition system will not spark..

I would redo engine grounds and even add a grounding kit if possible. I am assuming you are clipping the negative on the engine somewhere when jump starting which would give it a good ground.

OdesiTT

Just changed my positive connection terminal and looks like its charging it better. In the same time, car doesn't start from first time. When finally starting, rates jumps to 3000 and stating there for a while. Checked groundings, cleaned them and screw it down tight. Tomorrow I'll remove my grounding kit, but I still don't understending what is wrong, because I have it for pretty long time, and everithing was fine.

Vigman

Make sure you have a GOOD ground from Chassis to engine block

Mike

OdesiTT

Where approximately its could be? I mean, chassis to engine grounding

Vigman

M-30 ( look at PG-31 in the FSM ) is near the power steering rack, close to the steering ( input ) shaft. there is a pix in the FSM. this is the MAIN GROUND, should be a rather MANLY wire with a factory copper lug.

OdesiTT

OK. I just tested my battery in advance auto parts and their dude told me that battery is bad. He said its will last 5-6 months and than die.
(While he checked my battery he told me that he picked up 80 hp ON THE WHEELS because of lightweight pulley)

So now, my car doesn't start 4 times from 5 and I have to slam on the accelerator to start it. It's not really looks for me like a battery. I had this problem on carburated motorcycle long time ago and there was same trouble because my needle was very low. Is it could be something like this? May be something wrong with a idle line? I already reset my ECU and re-calibrate my idle air volume but its doesn't help.

I need you suggestions ASAP because I need to fix it today and I'm ready to go for new battery.

zakmartin

Just out of curiosity, how did they test your battery? Carbon pile load test? Digital conductivity test? Voltmeter? I've never heard someone give a prognosis of "6 months left to live" on a battery before.

Anyone who'd say they got 80 whp on pulleys alone is so COMPLETLY full of sh-- that it must be pouring out his ears. I'd question ANYTHING they offered as a diagnosis based on that statement alone. That being said, jumping a battery improperly can cause permanent damage to it. If the battery's older than 5 or 6 years, you should probably replace it anyway, as part of regular maintenance. If the problem doesn't go away and you have no way to test the systems, take the car to a shop and have it properly diagnosed.

OdesiTT

As I understanding, he made a load test and asked me to turn on my headlights. I have no idea what he tested, I'm not an electric, but obviously, it's impossible to find out how long exactly its will last. However, he was looks like a drug dealer more then mechanic(as most of dudes in Miami shops), so I'm not surprised. BTW in PapBoys, their mechanic offered me to make a free rotation while I changed oil, and when I told him that I have 18 front and 19 rear, I swear, he said: And what is a problem?

Vigman

Go ..RUN somewhere else and have the battery checked....
So when you have a NO START condition the car still cranks but will not fire??

zakmartin

HAHAHAHAHA!!! That's priceless!