Trunk opening on its own. Need help!!
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Trunk opening on its own. Need help!!
When I unlock my door the trunk pops itself. Then continues to try and pop the trunk. Just replaced the actuator yesterday. When locked, the key fob pops the trunk flawlessly. I took the batteries out of the fob thinking it was sending bad codes to the bcm but it still does it.
So I unplugged the wire that I believe works the button near the license plate and the trunk still is popping by itself.
And I've took the negative off my car for half an hour and still no solution.
Any input ? Someone with the same problem ? Could I be unplugging the wrong wire feeding the plate button ?
So I unplugged the wire that I believe works the button near the license plate and the trunk still is popping by itself.
And I've took the negative off my car for half an hour and still no solution.
Any input ? Someone with the same problem ? Could I be unplugging the wrong wire feeding the plate button ?
#3
New Member
Could be a short to ground in the hatch wiring. Unscrew the six bolts holding the hatch mechanism and the actuator to the body, carefully pull it out and look at all the wiring for stripped insulation. There are lots of sharp edges in that part of the car and if you accidentally rubbed a wire on one of those when you replaced the actuator, it could be giving you a short. You can try wrapping all the wires on the actuator in electrical tape as a simple test to see if the problem goes away. Just wrap them length-wise from the actuator to the big wiring loom that goes across the rear body panel behind the trim.
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tjc6591 (03-12-2016)
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Could be a short to ground in the hatch wiring. Unscrew the six bolts holding the hatch mechanism and the actuator to the body, carefully pull it out and look at all the wiring for stripped insulation. There are lots of sharp edges in that part of the car and if you accidentally rubbed a wire on one of those when you replaced the actuator, it could be giving you a short. You can try wrapping all the wires on the actuator in electrical tape as a simple test to see if the problem goes away. Just wrap them length-wise from the actuator to the big wiring loom that goes across the rear body panel behind the trim.
#5
New Member
RE>: "I can never get good help on here, it's quite pitiful."
I would like to offer help, but your question is so poorly worded I am having trouble understanding the problem you are attempting (and very poorly) to describe.
I would like to offer help, but your question is so poorly worded I am having trouble understanding the problem you are attempting (and very poorly) to describe.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Insulting my wording isn't going to help. If you had intentions on helping me you could have asked me to clarify myself. Sorry I struck a nerve. It's true tho. The community here isn't helpful. I've posted multiple logical questions and it takes months to get even one response.
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#8
When I unlock my door the trunk pops itself. So what are you unlocking it with? The key fob, the button on one of the doors, or the key itself? Or do all of those things cause the same problem?
Then continues to try and pop the trunk. Does it continuously actuate the lock or if you close it again it just pops open? Also what stops this, locking the car?
Just replaced the actuator yesterday. When locked, the key fob pops the trunk flawlessly.Might have just thought of something, have you tried disconnecting the button on the bumper? I am thinking something related to that might be bad, wiring harness or the switch itself.
I took the batteries out of the fob thinking it was sending bad codes to the bcm but it still does it. What does what when using what? I am very confused by this statement as I thought this was about using the the fob to unlock and I would think the fob couldn't do anything without the battery
So I unplugged the wire that I believe works the button near the license plate and the trunk still is popping by itself.Crap well my first thought isn't looking to good but maybe the stitch is normally closed? It might be good to look at the FSM and see how this switch actuates the hatch lock mechanism. If its normally closed disconnecting it would cause the same issue as a broken button.
And I've took the negative off my car for half an hour and still no solution.
Any input ? Someone with the same problem ? Could I be unplugging the wrong wire feeding the plate button ?Possible but I have no idea what wire you disconnected. Again the FSM would probably be your friend in this situation.
Then continues to try and pop the trunk. Does it continuously actuate the lock or if you close it again it just pops open? Also what stops this, locking the car?
Just replaced the actuator yesterday. When locked, the key fob pops the trunk flawlessly.Might have just thought of something, have you tried disconnecting the button on the bumper? I am thinking something related to that might be bad, wiring harness or the switch itself.
I took the batteries out of the fob thinking it was sending bad codes to the bcm but it still does it. What does what when using what? I am very confused by this statement as I thought this was about using the the fob to unlock and I would think the fob couldn't do anything without the battery
So I unplugged the wire that I believe works the button near the license plate and the trunk still is popping by itself.Crap well my first thought isn't looking to good but maybe the stitch is normally closed? It might be good to look at the FSM and see how this switch actuates the hatch lock mechanism. If its normally closed disconnecting it would cause the same issue as a broken button.
And I've took the negative off my car for half an hour and still no solution.
Any input ? Someone with the same problem ? Could I be unplugging the wrong wire feeding the plate button ?Possible but I have no idea what wire you disconnected. Again the FSM would probably be your friend in this situation.
Last edited by rancor; 03-14-2016 at 07:40 AM.
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Spike100 (03-14-2016)
#9
New Member
tjc6591, I think this is why you are experiencing problems releasing the hatch on your car. This is a thread you posted previously:
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...nother-wa.html
Jamming a screwdriver into the release mechanism and its wiring, and then bending parts using a pliers to crimp a metal connection typically causes problems.
You have damaged the mechanism and/or wiring controlling the rear tailgate actuator.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...nother-wa.html
Jamming a screwdriver into the release mechanism and its wiring, and then bending parts using a pliers to crimp a metal connection typically causes problems.
You have damaged the mechanism and/or wiring controlling the rear tailgate actuator.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
tjc6591, I think this is why you are experiencing problems releasing the hatch on your car. This is a thread you posted previously:
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...nother-wa.html
Jamming a screwdriver into the release mechanism and its wiring, and then bending parts using a pliers to crimp a metal connection typically causes problems.
You have damaged the mechanism and/or wiring controlling the rear tailgate actuator.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...nother-wa.html
Jamming a screwdriver into the release mechanism and its wiring, and then bending parts using a pliers to crimp a metal connection typically causes problems.
You have damaged the mechanism and/or wiring controlling the rear tailgate actuator.
When I unlocked the car with the fob, the door switch, or thru manually inserting my key, the actuator would "actuate" or constantly trigger the latch to open. Only when I lock the doors, whether it be with the key fob, the door switch, or manually with the key, the actuator would quit. So I left the button unplugged and put my bumper back on and it's been working properly every since
#11
No. The "mechanism" that I bent was the clasp that holds the end of the emergency release cable onto the trunk latch. It came out of the clasp so I put it back and re-bent the clasp to hold the end of that cable in. I figured out the problem friday, i removed the bumper and unplugged the button back near the license plate.
When I unlocked the car with the fob, the door switch, or thru manually inserting my key, the actuator would "actuate" or constantly trigger the latch to open. Only when I lock the doors, whether it be with the key fob, the door switch, or manually with the key, the actuator would quit. So I left the button unplugged and put my bumper back on and it's been working properly every since
When I unlocked the car with the fob, the door switch, or thru manually inserting my key, the actuator would "actuate" or constantly trigger the latch to open. Only when I lock the doors, whether it be with the key fob, the door switch, or manually with the key, the actuator would quit. So I left the button unplugged and put my bumper back on and it's been working properly every since
#13
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Join Date: Jul 2016
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Same issue
When I unlock my door the trunk pops itself. Then continues to try and pop the trunk. Just replaced the actuator yesterday. When locked, the key fob pops the trunk flawlessly. I took the batteries out of the fob thinking it was sending bad codes to the bcm but it still does it.
So I unplugged the wire that I believe works the button near the license plate and the trunk still is popping by itself.
And I've took the negative off my car for half an hour and still no solution.
Any input ? Someone with the same problem ? Could I be unplugging the wrong wire feeding the plate button ?
So I unplugged the wire that I believe works the button near the license plate and the trunk still is popping by itself.
And I've took the negative off my car for half an hour and still no solution.
Any input ? Someone with the same problem ? Could I be unplugging the wrong wire feeding the plate button ?
When I hit the unlock button from inside the car the trunk also opens. It actuator keeps trying to open the truck till I hit the alarm to lock the car. How did you resolve this?
#14
Why did you post in three different threads, and did you even read this one? They gave an answer a few posts up.
#15
New Member
My 2008 350Z Touring Coupe hatch/tailgate kept popping open by itself while driving or stopped. It was not the actuator or the key fob, Using a thin flat bladed screw driver I levered out the rubber cover of the release button above the license plate. It was wet ! The white plastic mechanism and springs were then easily pried out.
No more problems. I guess you could cover the small square hole with tape to keep water out. I never used this button. The trunk/tailgate can be opened with the remote or manually with the release pull under the arch inside the car. Sure beats having to remove the rear bumper cover etc.
No more problems. I guess you could cover the small square hole with tape to keep water out. I never used this button. The trunk/tailgate can be opened with the remote or manually with the release pull under the arch inside the car. Sure beats having to remove the rear bumper cover etc.
#16
Don't pry out the white mechanism though!
My 2008 350Z Touring Coupe hatch/tailgate kept popping open by itself while driving or stopped. It was not the actuator or the key fob, Using a thin flat bladed screw driver I levered out the rubber cover of the release button above the license plate. It was wet ! The white plastic mechanism and springs were then easily pried out.
No more problems. I guess you could cover the small square hole with tape to keep water out. I never used this button. The trunk/tailgate can be opened with the remote or manually with the release pull under the arch inside the car. Sure beats having to remove the rear bumper cover etc.
No more problems. I guess you could cover the small square hole with tape to keep water out. I never used this button. The trunk/tailgate can be opened with the remote or manually with the release pull under the arch inside the car. Sure beats having to remove the rear bumper cover etc.
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flavalava (09-22-2022)
#17
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Join Date: Mar 2021
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I am with you brother
So it's 2021 and I'm suffering from this same issue with my '08 - and what's funny is that I stopped short of prying out the white plastic mechanism and spring, and my problem was solved. Maybe somehow with the water being compressed into the socket from rainwater being kicked up into it, that the handle was being triggered. My handle even still works perfectly, I just don't have the little black cover over the white plastic part - and the random trunk convulsions have ceased!!!
#18
So the button i guess you would call it, has that soft black material that covers it - if you can get a good look at it from the bottom it makes a rectangle. I just got a screwdriver and made an incision along the edge of it and pried out the rectangle. I think the lever is sensitive, but yours sounds worse though because mine would only get triggered in the rain...
#19
Quick add - I have also read that some people had to take it a step further and pry the entire lever out from that incision, it's white and very visible - however I did not have to do that. not that it makes much of a difference, the trunk still opens with the remote anyway.