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The sensor itself. No M1 0W-40 is barely a 40 weight it's fine. It's also the same if not thinner at cold and that's only a good thing. If you are burning a lot of oil at start up 10W30 may be better but then your engine is worn out.
Gotcha.
Purchased a mechanical oil gauge to give the final verdict and my worst nightmare has come to fruition. See pic. That was the "hot" reading, after letting car idle for about a half hour. As the pressure needle sank every few minutes, so with it did my heart ....
After everything that I'm reading, this would confirm my oil galley gaskets are blown ? Anyone know of a good step by step write-up I've read the Infiniti one but maybe one with step by step and pics?
Also, who's gasket kit should I go with ? Concept Z seems to be a top the list.
Anyone in the north east (NJ) want to help as I'm mechanically inclined but this seems above my head a bit ....
Is your car consuming oil? Is it a DE or HR? If HR is the gallery gasket unique to only the HR? I am a DE consuming oil, but my gauge reads low on start and cruise as well.
Is your car consuming oil? Is it a DE or HR? If HR is the gallery gasket unique to only the HR? I am a DE consuming oil, but my gauge reads low on start and cruise as well.
My car is not consuming any oil at all. I check the oil regularly and is always within spec. Its a DE and the issue is not specific to HR or DE, its across the board, and someone can correct me if Im wrong, but the gaskets haven't been updated until the 2013 370/G37's so any year prior can have this problem.
My car is not consuming any oil at all. I check the oil regularly and is always within spec. Its a DE and the issue is not specific to HR or DE, its across the board, and someone can correct me if Im wrong, but the gaskets haven't been updated until the 2013 370/G37's so any year prior can have this problem.
Pretty sure everyone has the stock gaskets so shouldn't matter who you go with.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-...it-p-9424.html - compleate gasket kit but without the screws Concept Z sells. Looks like Concept Z might be the best one stop shop. I can get you the screw measurements for the HR, I assume they are the same, if you want to get them separately from someone like mcmaster carr.
As for confirming the gaskets i'm not sure it's for certain but likely. I'm in the same situation so I won't really know until I open her up. I think the only other options are clogged oil pickup, bad oil pump, or heavily worn engine. The other options feel very unlikely if the engine has been cared for.
Only guide I know of is this. I will try to make one when I do it but it won't be for a little while as I have another car to fix. Everything has to break at the same time . https://g35driver.com/forums/attachm...ry-gaskets.pdf
Pretty sure everyone has the stock gaskets so shouldn't matter who you go with.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-...it-p-9424.html - compleate gasket kit but without the screws Concept Z sells. Looks like Concept Z might be the best one stop shop. I can get you the screw measurements for the HR, I assume they are the same, if you want to get them separately from someone like mcmaster carr.
As for confirming the gaskets i'm not sure it's for certain but likely. I'm in the same situation so I won't really know until I open her up. I think the only other options are clogged oil pickup, bad oil pump, or heavily worn engine. The other options feel very unlikely if the engine has been cared for.
Only guide I know of is this. I will try to make one when I do it but it won't be for a little while as I have another car to fix. Everything has to break at the same time . https://g35driver.com/forums/attachm...ry-gaskets.pdf
Thanks for the follow-up, yeah I'll be getting into this project probably by the end of the week, trying to price out getting it done at a friends shop vs down-time, but ill try to post on how my progress is to help with yours. Im going to go with the Concept Z kit as they seem to have the updated gaskets. However, after looking at the Concept-Z kit, it seems they, too, use the updated gaskets, but what do they mean by the front and rear cover? Do both need to be removed to access the oil galley gaskets (I'm thinking just the front)?
As far as gaskets, some of them were updated with apparently a metal material that causes them not to blow, I wouldn't suggest replacing the stock paper gaskets with new paper gaskets.
Yeah as far as other things, I feel like that would affect the oil pressure across the board not just when "hot" - if anything I would think it would improve oil pressure as the oil heats up, not the other way around... could be wrong tho
Thanks for the follow-up, yeah I'll be getting into this project probably by the end of the week, trying to price out getting it done at a friends shop vs down-time, but ill try to post on how my progress is to help with yours. Im going to go with the Concept Z kit as they seem to have the updated gaskets. However, after looking at the Concept-Z kit, it seems they, too, use the updated gaskets, but what do they mean by the front and rear cover? Do both need to be removed to access the oil galley gaskets (I'm thinking just the front)?
As far as gaskets, some of them were updated with apparently a metal material that causes them not to blow, I wouldn't suggest replacing the stock paper gaskets with new paper gaskets.
Yeah as far as other things, I feel like that would affect the oil pressure across the board not just when "hot" - if anything I would think it would improve oil pressure as the oil heats up, not the other way around... could be wrong tho
All you should need are the front gaskets. If you were rebuilding and removing your heads I think you would need to remove the rear timing cover.
The ones I have are the updated metal gaskets from nissan I would agree it would probably be stupid to go through all this work to use paper again.
So just finished up the job today, and oil pressure is perfect, and above spec !! Definitely was the issue. Attached a couple pics of the job. So glad this job is done and my oil pressure stress is over for good !!!
What are some precautions to prevent these gaskets from blowing or to prolong its life?
Luck but about the only thing you can do is keep the oil pressure down. So when the oil is cold try and keep the oil pump from bypassing by keeping low RPMs 2000-3000 max. Also stick to the nissan spec or very close on oil weight 5W30 or M1 0W40. If you are in a warmer climate that doesn't see below 50F or so 10W30 is fine. Thicker oil will increase the pressure so again more likely to blow out the gaskets. This might help but there are no guarantees.
So question NR350z, did you do this job yourself? If so, did you take the bumper off, or did you just work around it? I'm needing to do this on my Nismo and am curious. Congrats on getting it done BTW.
So question NR350z, did you do this job yourself? If so, did you take the bumper off, or did you just work around it? I'm needing to do this on my Nismo and am curious. Congrats on getting it done BTW.
I didn't do the entire job start to finish, myself, but the front end did not come off, only because the mechanic said with a lift it wasn't necessary. Before my friend allowing me to use his garage, I was planning on doing it in my home garage with basic tools and entirely planned on taking the front end off.
To answer your question, no it didn't come off, but sure makes it a lot easier to work and get the front timing cover off if you take the front end off
So question NR350z, did you do this job yourself? If so, did you take the bumper off, or did you just work around it? I'm needing to do this on my Nismo and am curious. Congrats on getting it done BTW.
definitely take the front end off, it will make it a ton easier and removing the front end is very easy. First time doing the gaskets took me about 40 hours working carefully. Second about 6. if you need any advice feel free to PM me
Btw It's not a hard job at all, just very time consuming. Everything comes off and goes back together very easily! Plan a weekend for sure if it's your first time digging into this engine.
I didn't do the entire job start to finish, myself, but the front end did not come off, only because the mechanic said with a lift it wasn't necessary. Before my friend allowing me to use his garage, I was planning on doing it in my home garage with basic tools and entirely planned on taking the front end off.
To answer your question, no it didn't come off, but sure makes it a lot easier to work and get the front timing cover off if you take the front end off
Hope that helps
Ah ok, fair enough. We have a lift too, but was just curious.
Originally Posted by Xrabbix
definitely take the front end off, it will make it a ton easier and removing the front end is very easy. First time doing the gaskets took me about 40 hours working carefully. Second about 6. if you need any advice feel free to PM me
Btw It's not a hard job at all, just very time consuming. Everything comes off and goes back together very easily! Plan a weekend for sure if it's your first time digging into this engine.
Thank you sir! Appreciate that. It seems to be a fairly straight forward job. Any special tools required? Seems like chain vice grip and something able to loosen the crank bolt are the only things out of the ordinary to do the job, from what I've been reading.
Ah ok, fair enough. We have a lift too, but was just curious.
Thank you sir! Appreciate that. It seems to be a fairly straight forward job. Any special tools required? Seems like chain vice grip and something able to loosen the crank bolt are the only things out of the ordinary to do the job, from what I've been reading.
Only special tool I bought was a brake pad spreader to pop the front timing cover loose. A Nissan tech showed me the trick. The front & rear cover have two notchs you can use the spreader on and pop it right off without having to struggle with prying it off evenly so it doesn't warp. Works amazing.
This is the tool, very cool trick. First time I didn't use it and it took awhile to get the cover off. Second time took me 10 seconds with the tool.
An impact for the crank pulley or one hell of a breaker bar. Mine was on so tight the "starter bump trick" wouldn't budge it and actually broke my concrete floor lol. Coat that thing with some penetrating oil for a few days before you go at it
Only special tool I bought was a brake pad spreader to pop the front timing cover loose. A Nissan tech showed me the trick. The front & rear cover have two notchs you can use the spreader on and pop it right off without having to struggle with prying it off evenly so it doesn't warp. Works amazing.
This is the tool, very cool trick. First time I didn't use it and it took awhile to get the cover off. Second time took me 10 seconds with the tool.
An impact for the crank pulley or one hell of a breaker bar. Mine was on so tight the "starter bump trick" wouldn't budge it and actually broke my concrete floor lol. Coat that thing with some penetrating oil for a few days before you go at it
Wish I had known about that little trick, and yes the crank pulley was a *****, most difficult part of the job, and not even difficult, just frustrating, even with air tools....
Good luck but more importantly make friends and have fun ! lol
Wish I had known about that little trick, and yes the crank pulley was a *****, most difficult part of the job, and not even difficult, just frustrating, even with air tools....
Good luck but more importantly make friends and have fun ! lol
Yeah I don't think many people know about that trick. Never seen it posted on any of these threads and I think I read everything on the entire internet about these gaskets prior to doing mine lol.
Yeah I don't think many people know about that trick. Never seen it posted on any of these threads and I think I read everything on the entire internet about these gaskets prior to doing mine lol.
Definitely worth the cost of the tool!
Lol crazy how the job consumes your life until its done, and until your, trick I thought I had as well. No offense, hopefully won't have to ever use it the
. https://g35driver.com/forums/attachm...ry-gaskets.pdf
but about the only thing you can do is keep the oil pressure down. So when the oil is cold try and keep the oil pump from bypassing by keeping low RPMs 2000-3000 max. Also stick to the nissan spec or very close on oil weight 5W30 or M1 0W40. If you are in a warmer climate that doesn't see below 50F or so 10W30 is fine. Thicker oil will increase the pressure so again more likely to blow out the gaskets. This might help but there are no guarantees.
