Brendan Miele

Hi everyone! I have an 06 Nissan 350zGt. I seem to be having issues with a mushy clutch pedal that sticks. I replaced the fluid and that helped for about two months. However before I put it into storage for the winter it was doing it again. The car has about 90k on it. I'm trying to figure out if the clutch needs replaced or if it's the master and slave cylinder... maybe I need a stainless braided clutch line or.... maybe all of it! Lol. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!

Thanks Brendan

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

It's definitely the hydraulics and not the actual clutch.

Brendan Miele

Is there a way to check the clutch too? Who makes a good master and slave kit with a braided line then?

dcains

iTrader: (15)

It's the hydraulics, and don't you dare think about using OEM replacement parts. Check with ZSpeed for options:

http://www.zspeedperformance.com/

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

The '06 doesn't have a concentric slave. Those parts don't help him.

Use and OEM master and slave. Get a stainless clutch line and use Motul RBF600 fluid.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

You've got me there. I guess my brain was in HR mode.

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

No absolute way unless you want to drop the trans to visually inspect the clutch. With 90K, the clutch is probably still ok unless you've been beating it.

When my clutch pedal started sticking halfway up and I was getting pedal drop issues, I got the Wilwood HD master from Zspeed and it cured my pedal problems. You just need to reuse the OEM reservoir and attach it to the hose for the MC.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Shift hard into second gear from 1st gear at redline ?

MicVelo

Try simple first.... power bleed the hydraulic system and see if that cures the lazy pedal. Bet it does.

If that fails to cure, then drop in a new master, ,hose, slave and power bleed again because somewhere along the way it's sucking air into the system.

OEM is fine unless you're running a high force clutch. Cost of a OEM MC&Slave, ~$100. Tilton MC alone is over $200. Tilton is old school, proven race shid but....you don't need it. OEM has lasted this long, why mess with it?

Brendan Miele

Ok, so..... shifting from first to second I feel could be a little smoother... here is one thing that you must keep in mind.... the guy that was the third owner babied the hell out of this car it was/is near pristine. I surely done beat on it as this is my baby. I'm wondering if the transmission just isn't broken in yet. On top of that if I am sucking air ...... which I feel is very likely as the action on the clutch seems to change every time I push it in, the fact that I feel like it could shift better isn't really indicating anything other tHan I have a clutch problem. To deduce if it's the state of that clutch I would need to fix the hydraulic problem first. So that's my plan of attack. However, I'm definitely not going with stock. For the few bucks more if I can get a clutch that feels and works better, cleaner, and more precise I will. After all that's where about 30% of your driving skill/ability lies when trying to make a car like this go. I use to race sport bikes, every time I drive this thing it's begging me to take it to the track.... that just might happen! Lol.

With th that being said who makes a good Mc, sc, and as braided hose kit? Trying to keep it under $250?

also thanks for all of the insight and help!!!

Brendan Miele

Also I did powerbleed the system last summer along with changing to a good hi temp fluid. THat seemed to work for about three weeks to a month.... maybe month and a half. I did notice the crispness start to drop off after day 3 though. Also supports the bad mc and or sc.

Brendan Miele

Also with these Tilton mc is this a one size fits all application? Just want to make sure I'm going to be able to drop it in with the lease amount of hassle? Do they make a full kit or you have to buy everything individually?