absurdparadox

iTrader: (1)

Recently installed a Spec stage 2+ clutch and light flywheel.

At first I was having a problem with the pedal going entirely to the floor, with no resistance, and not coming back.

I replaced the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and adjusted the pedal as far out as it will go, and bled the system 3 separate times.

Now there is no resistance for the first 20% of the pedal throw, and it feels pretty soft/spongy the rest of the way, like it still needs bled. If it sits, for a while, the pedal won't return all the way out until you pump it a few times.

A bit lost as to what else could be wrong. Perhaps I am bleeding it wrong? I am doing what the manual says, which is a pretty standard bleed procedure -- pump, hold down, open valve, close valve, repeat. What am I missing here? It almost feels like I still need to adjust the pedal outward more, but there are basically no threads left.

Any help is greatly appreciated, this has been the clutch swap from hell due to many minor issues stacking up on top of each other

Sailors350Z

iTrader: (1)

are you losing clutch fluid? if not try the reverse bleed system. Its where you push fluid from the bleed port.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

what year is the car? the HR's are alot harder to bleed than the DE's

i would also look at the master push rod, you might have it adjusted out too far

dcains

iTrader: (15)

First, follow the procedure outlined in the FDM, and I'm sure the way you have the pedal adjusted is incorrect. There is a specific range of travel the MC piston has to,stay within, so when the pedal is released, a port is exposed an the cylinder can refill with fluid from the reservoir. Fix that, and go,from there. Reverse bleeding also tends to work better in these systems, and you can find YouTube vids showing you the best way to do that.

absurdparadox

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the replies.

The reason I adjusted the pedal out so far is because that is the only way I could get it to "do anything". Otherwise it just stays on the floor and doesn't disengage the clutch.

I tried to bleed it the normal way last night, again, but in a better situation so I could get a better look at what is going on. What is happening is: pump the clutch, on first release, a lot of bubbles, second time, a few, third time, none. If you let it sit for a bit (say, refilling the resevoir), and then start bleeding again, all the air has returned, it seems -- a lot of air bubbles again.

I have tried bleeding the clutch with it more in-spec, but that seemed to do nothing different, just a worse pedal feel. I'll give it another shot, though.

I'll look into the reverse system. I've also seen some people have had luck clamping the slave down so it can't move.

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

If you have an 03-06 slave cylinder setup, the FSM says to rapidly pump the clutch 5 times and hold down, then crack the bleeder to release fluid/bubbles and promptly close the bleeder. Rinse and repeat until the pedal and clutch fork actuate properly. Continue to check the clutch reservoir during the procedure and add fluid as needed. Naturally, you will likely need a buddy to either open the bleeder or pump the pedal.

I've done this a few times on my 06 Z without any issues. Double check all your line connections carefully, you could be sucking air in somewhere.

Note: I don't have any experience with HR Zs and the concentric slave cylinder.
-Icer

absurdparadox

iTrader: (1)

I tried the reverse bleeding method but for some reason, I could simply not force that much fluid into the system, not sure why... I ever thought bleeding a clutch would be this ****ing impossible.