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Dead spot at top of clutch when hot

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Old 08-16-2017, 09:13 AM
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live2ball
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Default Dead spot at top of clutch when hot

Hello, I have a base 2005 350z, 78k miles. About a year ago I had an exedy clutch and flywheel installed. Ever since right around then I have been having problems with the resistance in my clutch. First they did a horrible job bleeding the system, so I did that for them again. The shop made multiple mistakes (they installed the flywheel backwards and couldn't figure out what the problem was, and had my car for a week trying to bleed the system) Basically I have no trust in the shop otherwise I would use my warranty and have them check it out.

The problem I am having is after I drive for a few minutes, especially in city, I lose all resistance in the top 1/3 up to 1/2 of the clutch pedal travel. It just falls down until it gets halfway and then I have some resistance again. When it's cold and I begin driving, everything is normal. Also when it gets like this I am having difficulty shifting at times. It gets a little harder to go into gear and there have been a few times where it's actually grinded the gears.
I have tried rebleeding the system multiple times, and each time it seems like it's better for just a little while then starts to do it again (might just be my brain playing games with me, but I doubt it). I've already rebuilt the master cylinder after I noticed this happening. No luck. I adjusted the clutch pedal, just to see if it would make a difference. Nope. Checked all around the reservoir, master cylinder, slave cylinder and clutch lines. No visible leaks.

The only things I can think of is there is a leak somewhere and air is getting introduced to the system. Maybe the slave has an internal leak? Or maybe since I am running DOT3 I am getting enough heat soak on the lines to affect them. The next step I was going to take was replacing the slave cylinder, getting SS clutch lines and running some DOT 4 fluid.

Any other advice or ideas?? I'm lost on what else it could be. Any recommendations on a slave cylinder or what fluid to run?
Thanks in advance
Old 08-16-2017, 11:38 AM
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Heel Til I Die
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When I was having clutch pedal drop issues on my '05 after it warmed up (similar symptoms to what you're experiencing), I replaced the master with the wilwood kit from Zspeed and it solved all problems. It looks like Zspeed offers a similar upgrade with the Tilton Racing MC. I also ran Motul 5.1 fluid when I did the swap and stainless lines to get rid of all the OEM blocks in the hard line.

IIRC, the OEM master is a pain to bleed correctly. If you just rebuilt it, then you're probably having a hard time getting all the air out. My guess is that there's still air in it.

If you upgrade to the Zspeed MC replacement, you can use a power bleeder as opposed to doing the "pedal dance" in order to bleed it. It also becomes a one-man job

http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...ZSP3004-DE.htm
Old 08-16-2017, 01:57 PM
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live2ball
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Originally Posted by Heel Til I Die
When I was having clutch pedal drop issues on my '05 after it warmed up (similar symptoms to what you're experiencing), I replaced the master with the wilwood kit from Zspeed and it solved all problems. It looks like Zspeed offers a similar upgrade with the Tilton Racing MC. I also ran Motul 5.1 fluid when I did the swap and stainless lines to get rid of all the OEM blocks in the hard line.

IIRC, the OEM master is a pain to bleed correctly. If you just rebuilt it, then you're probably having a hard time getting all the air out. My guess is that there's still air in it.

If you upgrade to the Zspeed MC replacement, you can use a power bleeder as opposed to doing the "pedal dance" in order to bleed it. It also becomes a one-man job

http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...ZSP3004-DE.htm
Damn those are expensive. Do you think it's worth it to give the slave, SS lines and better fluid a shot before going for broke with an aftermarket master cylinder? I know people say 9/10 times it's the master but I haven't heard anything about it failing right after being rebuilt, or just being impossible to bleed.
Old 08-17-2017, 12:01 PM
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Any other opinions?
Old 08-27-2017, 05:33 PM
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live2ball
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For anyone who is having similar issues, I replaced my clutch slave cylinder, upgraded to the Z1 stainless steel clutch line, and upgraded to ATE super blue dot 4 fluid. So far so good, no loss of resistance at the top of the clutch. Not sure which of the 3 things fixed it but I figured since I was in there anyways I'd do all 3.




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