Hydrolocked
#21
New Member
^ Yes. Drive it for 20-25 minutes on the highway to reach full operating temperature to ensure all moisture has been driven out. Don't beat it, just cruise. Then, if it were me, I'd change the oil 1,000 miles before your normal schedule just to be sure. But that's me. Good luck, and I'm glad it's running for ya'.
#22
You might want to change transmission and differential oil also. Brake and clutch fluid might be a good idea.
I would also recommend a long(30min) highway cruise to get oil, other fluids and parts up to temp in an effort to dry everything out.
I would also recommend a long(30min) highway cruise to get oil, other fluids and parts up to temp in an effort to dry everything out.
#23
Registered User
#24
Because I didn't remember how deep the car went in the water.
But if you went in water deep enough to get to the top of the dif or transmission they both have breather tubes that could let water in. Might have more problems like water in the cabin then also.
The brake fluid is more of a cheap insurance thing if the calipers when under water. They have seals but they also are not meant to be submerged.
But if you went in water deep enough to get to the top of the dif or transmission they both have breather tubes that could let water in. Might have more problems like water in the cabin then also.
The brake fluid is more of a cheap insurance thing if the calipers when under water. They have seals but they also are not meant to be submerged.
#25
Registered User
and my 2 cents- just for peace of mind (in addition to changing out those other fluids) - go ahead and keep checking inside the oil fill hole and the dip stick daily - and if it was my car-i'd just go ahead and do a few oil changes - and if possible- let the old oil sit in a clear container over night so you can see if any water separates out- way i figure- it would give me peace of mind to spend those dollars up front to ensure that all traces of water are flushed out of the engine rather than to run the oil till its next change date.
the vapor coming out of the exhaust is probably remnents of the water in the system- i would say that if you had a preexisting leak in the exhaust - that there is a chance that water actually entered the pipes while the system was unpressurized from the inside-but under pressure from the exterior water.
(and that might explain the noise you are hearing--that noise might have existed before-but you were not sitting on edge listening to every single noise before and might have not noticed it...but now- you are attuned for every odd noise--another 2 cent opinion)
then- for super extra peace of mind- might consider a leak down test to determine if the head gasket is still holding true... the water compressing might have been of a short enough duration not to bend the big old metal parts--but- might have had enough pressure to cause micro-leaks... (thats another 2 cent shade tree mechanic opinion)
good luck
the vapor coming out of the exhaust is probably remnents of the water in the system- i would say that if you had a preexisting leak in the exhaust - that there is a chance that water actually entered the pipes while the system was unpressurized from the inside-but under pressure from the exterior water.
(and that might explain the noise you are hearing--that noise might have existed before-but you were not sitting on edge listening to every single noise before and might have not noticed it...but now- you are attuned for every odd noise--another 2 cent opinion)
then- for super extra peace of mind- might consider a leak down test to determine if the head gasket is still holding true... the water compressing might have been of a short enough duration not to bend the big old metal parts--but- might have had enough pressure to cause micro-leaks... (thats another 2 cent shade tree mechanic opinion)
good luck
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jhc (10-10-2017)