Atreyu'z 350

Speaking of Matchbox cars. Remember this one?.. ..It was like every little boys dream matchbox car. Including mine. I had like six of them.....sry, op.

zakmartin

Yeah, it was a little 4 wheel drive car with a motor that ran on a AA battery. You'd make tracks for it in the dirt and off it'd go. Life in the late 70s and early 80s was non-stop excitement if you were a kid.

Atreyu'z 350

I think I know which one you mean.. that's cool.. And yes it was.. the good ole' dayz.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

It's your fuel man, it has a nasty hole.

Far East

it's an 04 with 165 miles. I really don't know anything about the car. I bought it in fla for 2500. The car was in a wreck, and the right side was hit. I'm currently in the process of doing the body work now. The car wasn't in bad shape. Just the quarter panel and fender was damaged. The previous owner said he got the door fixed. Now I have the issue with the engine. The car drives really good. I drove it from fla to Maryland when I bought it. Im Just confused on what the issue could be because the car doesn't have a check engine light on. I'm just trying to prevent from taking it to the nissan dealership because they are really expensive. My girl works there and even with her discounts the price adds up, so if I can fix the problem myself that I rather do that first. They will be my last option.

Far East

no, the engine light isn't on.

MicVelo

Pull (or have someone) the codes. Not all codes trigger CEL. That's ALWAYS the first step on cars built after 1996. It's there for a good reason and a good starting point for all issues.

Then, from there, look up the Nissan specific interpretation for the DTC.

Sample list as follows:

Manufacturer Specific Codes - Nissan
Note: Many of these have further explanations found here (or choose your own source):
https://www.engine-light-help.com/ni...ine-light.html

And of course, all generic (no-mfgr specific) codes (sub-11xx) can be found at a thousand websites.

P1105 MAP/BARO Pressure Switch Solenoid Valve

P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid

P1120 Secondary Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Fault

P1125 Tandem Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Fault

P1126 Thermostat Function

P1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve

P1135 Intake Valve Timing Control Circuit (Bank 2)

P1140 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor (Bank 1)

P1145 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor (Bank 2)

P1148 Closed Loop Control (Bank 1)

P1165 Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Switch

P1168 Closed Loop Control (Bank 2)

P1210 Traction Control System Signal Fault

P1211 ABS/TCS Control Unit

P1212 ABS/TCS Communication Line

P1217 Engine Over Temperature (Overheat)

P1220 Fuel Pump Control Signal Fault

P1320 Ignition Signal

P1335 Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)

P1336 Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS)

P1400 EGRC Solenoid Valve

P1401 EGR Temperature Sensor

P1402 EGR System

P1440 EVAP Control System Small Leak

P1441 Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve

P1443 EVAP Canister Control Vacuum Switch Circuit Fault

P1444 Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve

P1445 EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve

P1446 EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve (Closed)

P1447 EVAP Control System Purge Flow Monitoring

P1448 EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve (Open)

P1464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit (Ground Signal)

P1490 Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve (Circuit)

P1491 Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve

P1492 EVAP Canister Purge Control/Solenoid Valve (Circuit)

P1493 EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve/Solenoid Valve

P1550 TCC Solenoid Valve

P1605 A/T Diagnostic Communication Line

P1701 Fuel Trim

P1705 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit A/T

P1706 Park/Neutral Position (PNP) Switch

P1760 Overrun Clutch Solenoid Valve (Circuit)

If any of these are beyond your knowledge level then unfortunately the best/only recourse is to take it to a Nissan knowledgable shop (indep or dealer).

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

So your bought this Z for a song, but obviously didn't do any kind of mechanical assessment before the purchase. With 165K on it, you have no idea when, or if any kind of maintenance was done. The problem could be as simple as some off-brand spark plugs being used, or it could be more complex. I'd say you have some work to do to check this Z out yourself, rather than inviting us to guess at what the problem(s) are.

After reading through this thread, your statements are also confusing. You say your Z "drives real good", but previously you said it "has no power", which is it? If you drove it back from Florida, was it always down on power, or did this just occur?

Atreyu'z 350

OK.. Like mentioned above, hook it up to an OBD II Scanner. You never know, there could be a pending code; and since this is a problem that is hard for you to articulate, I would suggest that you perform a compression/leak-down test to first shed some light on the overall health of the engine. That way(since you're not that mechanically inclined) you can then tell us those numbers so that we can better assess your problem..

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Compression test. . .

Far East

Yes the z does drive good, with the exception of it not putting out the intended HP. When i drove it back from fla, i had this same issue. But it doesnt seem like it could be anything serious because of it not putting out any codes. I was going thru the list of things u just sent me and I believe I could be the air bag module, but I'm not sure how that could take away from it potential. There is a hard code on for my air bag, like I said when I bought it the right side was smashed and the seat air bags where deployed. I just stripped out my interior and took out my airbag module and shipped it off to be reset. I hoping this is the problem or something minor.not looking to drop a whole lot into the z, but if I have to I guess I have no choice. I appreciate ur help sir! I. Just trying to look for some answers or someone who might of had similar issues. I like to work on stuff myself and learn as I go. So the dealership is my last option.

Far East

ok I appreciate it sir, and I will get back to the thread as soon as I finish putting my z back together and take it and get it Diagnosed

Far East

ok thank u.

Far East

ok thanks

Far East

i was reading thru the list of things you just sent me and I seen something about it could be P1211 ABS/TCS Control Unit. Is that the same thing as the air bag module? Like i mentioned before, the car was in a wreck and there is a hard code on for my airbag. The car was hit on the passenger side, and the seat air bags where the only ones that deployed. I just stripped out my interior and took out the airbag module and shipped it out to be reset. As soon as I finishes fixing the body work, if I can't figure it out by than I will take it and get the Diagnostic test

Atreyu'z 350

Hmm.. You should've said all this with the same level of detail in your first post.

Far East

yet, still u give no helpful insight 👌

Far East

I guess the engine is a hard thing to determine with so many diffrent component. Everybody I talk to gives me like 4 diffrent possibilities. I'll guess I'll just take it to the shop

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

ABS- anti-lock braking system, TCS- traction control system. Nothing to do directly with the airbag system or engine performance.

Atreyu'z 350

Look.. It's nothing personal, and I apologize if I had a tude; but for the most part, trying to diagnose a car over the internet just demands a little bit of EXtra detail to be given by the person asking... But no hard feelings, Far East. Just finish up replacing the parts to your SRS system, do a compression/leakdown test, and hook it up to an OBD II scanner to see if there's anything pending.. And this may be a shot in the dark, but since you don't have a closed loop 'per se' with the SRS components/sensors/airbags etc, your ECM could've been thrown into limp mode.. and you won't know that until you replace all those parts.. You say you can't burn rubber. Is it a base model? Do you have a TCS button?.. Maybe it's just that the tracton control is enabled and not allowing you to 'burn rubber'..lol..