This winter, my battery died/wouldn't hold a charge. Attempted a trickle charger over a period of about a month; no change.

Replaced the battery. To avoid hearing the timing chain clatter/turning it on after months with all the oil in the pan, I cracked the engine briefly a couple of times (4?) quickly enough to prevent it from starting, just to build oil pressure.

That may have been a mistake; I'm not sure.

Engine cranks aggressively, but will not start. An OBDII tool I have showed 1610 and 1615: my keys appear to have been locked out.

I really REALLY don't want to tow this car to Nissan. The chin spoiler is too low.

Disconnected the battery to attempt ECU reset; turned ON 5 sec/off 10 x 3 - nothing different. Cranks quickly, but no start.

Any suggestions?

 

RE: the issue you're having with NATS, you could try calling a mobile locksmith to see if they can do key programming, or you can spend $1300+ on a computer that will program new keys, or you can take it to Nissan to have them do the work on a CONSULT for whatever that costs now 'days.

Yes, what you did was a mistake. Next time try starting the car normally; it's built to handle cold starts and as long as you're not putting a load on the engine, it'll build oil pressure just fine on its own. If you need to crank the engine without starting it for diagnostic purposes, either use a bi-directional car computer to deactivate the injectors or start the car in clear flood mode or just pull the injector fuse. I don't recommend any of these just to "build oil pressure" though because it puts unnecessary stress on the starter and battery.

If you're getting timing chain clatter on cold starts, then check for slack in the chain and fix if necessary.

 

Mobile locksmith just came - and went. He attempted to have the BCM module communicate with his equipment (he had several different devices he threw at it), and none would communicate with the BCM. From the BCM code on the sticker, he pulled the calculated PIN value, and tried key programming, to no avail. The system responded with 'EMS fail'.

No dice. I need someone with Consult/NATS, apparently. He couldn't get the 1610/1615 codes to go away, either.

I'm trying another place - apparently higher end - tomorrow. Last resort is a dealer.

I definitely do have timing chain clatter, and have noticed that if I keep the ignition 'start' engaged for a bit beyond when the engine catches, it doesn't clatter.

This definitely sucks.

 

My Autel MaxiSys 906BT works great at programming keys and fobs on Nissans with NATS. If they have one of those, it will work. I've heard Snap-On Verus is a hit or miss affair, but they might have upgraded their Nissan software since I last looked. Otherwise, yeah... CONSULT is the way to go.

 

Are you able to clear NATS codes with it? That appears to be the problem. CONSULT ASIST communicates directly with the BCM, and works out a PIN based upon what sounds like an additional level of encryption.

The auto locksmith was confused by the fact that some of his interfaces insisted that my Z was using NATS 4 (Type 4) and a couple of others - after communication with the ECM - concluded that it was NATS 5.

I'm going to have tow my car in. Dealership won't do house calls.

Damn.

 

You can completely disable and bypass NATS with an Uprev reflash. We do it for engine swaps and guys that want to use unprogrammed keys all the time. Plus the reflash cable comes to you so you can flash it yourself at home, no need to tow anywhere

 

That's actually a really good question. I know you can copy keys or reprogram the system to accept an entirely new set of keys. Since the code is triggered through the BCM, then yes, I'd assume you could clear the codes since that's one of the modules the Autel connects to.

Here's a TSB covering NATS for the '03 350Z. I don't know what year your car is, but I'm guessing that not a whole lot changed over time. You may need to enter the pass code mentioned on Page 4 of the TSB to get the keys to program. I've seen that on other cars as well.

 

I have had that service bulletin opened on another tab for about a week. LOL

I pulled my BCM # from the sticker, but it hasn't done any good, and I need to get this to they dealer (unless I do the UpRev workaround).

Thanks guys.

 

hi, I just sent my ECU in to get the UPREV NATS delete and it just came back but the security light still stays solid red and it’s still just cranking. Do I need to remove the immobilizer/unplug it as well or do I need to do the lock mode procedure? I had both p1610 and p1650 codes after getting a new key cut & programmed before i sent the ecu in and tried doing the lock mode procedure as well to no avail.

 

Who did the reprogram?