Ok, here's the situation... (Z just died)
10-15-2015, 07:17 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok, here's the situation... (Z just died)
Long-time lurker....1st time poster 
DISCLAIMER: I have seen all kinds of threads (archaic ones) with issues similar to this, but awful follow-up/updates and irrelevant info.
Context:
1.Car is driving just fine. I notice a little hitch/delay on ignition start up first thing in the morning, I think nothing of it and I am off to class
2. Jump back in the saddle to head off and I notice an even longer start-up, but nothing major and I arrive safely at my next spot
3. 2 hours later, I jump back in the Z and this time I definitely notice that there is an odd trend developing here and the car turns over a couple of times before starting. At this point, I just need to drive a mile or two and I'll assess the symptoms later. During the drive, I notice that the radio cuts out a few times (hazy and silent playback) and I'm thinking some real voodoo is going on here
4. I park the car and pop the hood worried that something is up with the engine, while hoping it's nothing but a loose battery cable
5. I see nothing remarkable, engine dipstick indicates oil is present (just past 3000 miles however since the last synthetic change) and battery is tied up fine. I get in the car, turn the car to ON and everything lights up just fine with no codes/CEL (check engine light) coming on. I turned the key in the ignition and the now car won't even roll over, it just begins clicking. I can hear the fuel pump prime and the fuel in the Z is sufficient (keep in mind I was driving just fine minutes ago)
6. Now I am really worried. I begin to focus on different gauges to see what is out of sorts. I notice that the VOLTAGE GAUGE is now at 12V (normally at 16V) before turning the ignition and shoots down to 8V during the key turn. The more I turn the key, the shorter the ignition switch fires eventually getting to the point where it clicks once and that's that.
-Now I don't think this is a starter issue because I assume that the clicking is the starter trying to get power to the alternator. Since the voltage gauge was dropping so drastically when I tried to start the car, I'm thinking that the alternator is faulty and is draining major power from the battery
-IMPORTANT NOTE: I pulled into the driveway last night and (due to some unique construction) the undercarriage hit the curb harder than any of us would like. I am wondering if maybe some ground came loose or more likely, the crankshaft sensor was damaged (wiring or direct) by the bump
Before I am assaulted from all sides:
-If I missed important information available in an older thread, I apologize in advance. I spent over two hours rummaging through old threads and found little
-I am going to leave the Z where it is and will hopefully have a mechanic out to check on it tomorrow or Saturday (in two days) at the latest
-Any suggestions would be appreciated. Owning a Z is not easy feat sometimes, but I'm a poor grad student who is semi-capable of DIYs.
Thank you for any insight and thank you to anyone who made it through that wall of text.
DISCLAIMER: I have seen all kinds of threads (archaic ones) with issues similar to this, but awful follow-up/updates and irrelevant info.
Context:
1.Car is driving just fine. I notice a little hitch/delay on ignition start up first thing in the morning, I think nothing of it and I am off to class
2. Jump back in the saddle to head off and I notice an even longer start-up, but nothing major and I arrive safely at my next spot
3. 2 hours later, I jump back in the Z and this time I definitely notice that there is an odd trend developing here and the car turns over a couple of times before starting. At this point, I just need to drive a mile or two and I'll assess the symptoms later. During the drive, I notice that the radio cuts out a few times (hazy and silent playback) and I'm thinking some real voodoo is going on here
4. I park the car and pop the hood worried that something is up with the engine, while hoping it's nothing but a loose battery cable
5. I see nothing remarkable, engine dipstick indicates oil is present (just past 3000 miles however since the last synthetic change) and battery is tied up fine. I get in the car, turn the car to ON and everything lights up just fine with no codes/CEL (check engine light) coming on. I turned the key in the ignition and the now car won't even roll over, it just begins clicking. I can hear the fuel pump prime and the fuel in the Z is sufficient (keep in mind I was driving just fine minutes ago)
6. Now I am really worried. I begin to focus on different gauges to see what is out of sorts. I notice that the VOLTAGE GAUGE is now at 12V (normally at 16V) before turning the ignition and shoots down to 8V during the key turn. The more I turn the key, the shorter the ignition switch fires eventually getting to the point where it clicks once and that's that.
-Now I don't think this is a starter issue because I assume that the clicking is the starter trying to get power to the alternator. Since the voltage gauge was dropping so drastically when I tried to start the car, I'm thinking that the alternator is faulty and is draining major power from the battery
-IMPORTANT NOTE: I pulled into the driveway last night and (due to some unique construction) the undercarriage hit the curb harder than any of us would like. I am wondering if maybe some ground came loose or more likely, the crankshaft sensor was damaged (wiring or direct) by the bump
Before I am assaulted from all sides:
-If I missed important information available in an older thread, I apologize in advance. I spent over two hours rummaging through old threads and found little
-I am going to leave the Z where it is and will hopefully have a mechanic out to check on it tomorrow or Saturday (in two days) at the latest
-Any suggestions would be appreciated. Owning a Z is not easy feat sometimes, but I'm a poor grad student who is semi-capable of DIYs.
Thank you for any insight and thank you to anyone who made it through that wall of text.
10-15-2015, 07:43 PM
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Dude I hope you tried to jump start it.
If it starts with a jump its a battery. If your alternator was going you'd most likely have a battery light illuminated while driving.
If it starts with a jump its a battery. If your alternator was going you'd most likely have a battery light illuminated while driving.
Last edited by PP08HR; 10-15-2015 at 07:55 PM.
10-15-2015, 07:50 PM
#3
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
First thing is how old is the battery? is it possible to simply take it in to be tested and eliminating it as the cause before the hired wrench starts testing the alternator?
BTW- it's always good to list the year and mileage of your Z when asking repair questions like this.
BTW- it's always good to list the year and mileage of your Z when asking repair questions like this.
10-15-2015, 09:26 PM
#4
6. Now I am really worried. I begin to focus on different gauges to see what is out of sorts. I notice that the VOLTAGE GAUGE is now at 12V (normally at 16V) before turning the ignition and shoots down to 8V during the key turn. The more I turn the key, the shorter the ignition switch fires eventually getting to the point where it clicks once and that's that.
10-16-2015, 07:20 AM
#6
New Member
What everyone else said, it's probably the battery, recently my z was taking longer to crank, I had to look back in my folder that I keep all of my z related stuff in, I last replaced the battery 6 years ago, after a new battery it was like new again.
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10-16-2015, 09:05 AM
#8
If your alternator is charging at 16 volts then it might be a 1-2 punch and your voltageI regulator in the alternator went and fried your battery. It should never charge above 15 unless its a shotbox chevy which will charge a little over 15 but defiantly not 16.
But guessing ypu used the inside gauge and read it incorrectly and its just time for a new battery haha
But guessing ypu used the inside gauge and read it incorrectly and its just time for a new battery haha
10-16-2015, 02:27 PM
#10
Registered User
What most people do not get is it's the CURRENT ( aka AMPS ) that does the heavy lifting with a car battery. A new battery will put out ( just pulling out a number here ) 600 CCA
( COLD CRANK AMPS ) and that is when the battery is BRAND NEW… 1 month later it might only put out 590.. still WAY more then you need and there is NO WAY ( with existing instrumentation ) to measure it.. When you go to the auto parts store the "DUDE" assuming he has been TRAINED to use the tester properly.. puts a progressive HIGH LOAD to simulate cranking .. called a CARBON PILE.. So the idea is to find the fall off point of the VOLTAGE based on LOAD… So the higher the load AND the less voltage drop off the more current ( amps ) the battery can provide. Heat is a KILLER of batteries.. time is not the batteries pal either… the chemicals get weak, plates sulfate etc etc.. So test it and replace it as needed.. your ALT may be putting out the correct voltage that doesn't mean you battery is CHARGING……
Mike
( COLD CRANK AMPS ) and that is when the battery is BRAND NEW… 1 month later it might only put out 590.. still WAY more then you need and there is NO WAY ( with existing instrumentation ) to measure it.. When you go to the auto parts store the "DUDE" assuming he has been TRAINED to use the tester properly.. puts a progressive HIGH LOAD to simulate cranking .. called a CARBON PILE.. So the idea is to find the fall off point of the VOLTAGE based on LOAD… So the higher the load AND the less voltage drop off the more current ( amps ) the battery can provide. Heat is a KILLER of batteries.. time is not the batteries pal either… the chemicals get weak, plates sulfate etc etc.. So test it and replace it as needed.. your ALT may be putting out the correct voltage that doesn't mean you battery is CHARGING……
Mike
10-22-2015, 06:33 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
UPDATE:
Fellas, I am beyond ashamed at myself. I had tried a jump initially and the car wouldn't start up last week. I left it where it was and my independent mechanic says let's just make sure it isn't a battery. He drops in a brand new battery and...BOOM. I was
The voltmeter jumping around while driving threw me off and the car lighting up per usual and acting just fine electrically was interesting as all cars I've ever had batteries die would go completely out.
Apologies for not including relevant info in the OP. For anyone else, give the Z a minute to run a good charge to the battery as it pulls a ton of power.
Thanks folks!
Fellas, I am beyond ashamed at myself. I had tried a jump initially and the car wouldn't start up last week. I left it where it was and my independent mechanic says let's just make sure it isn't a battery. He drops in a brand new battery and...BOOM. I was
The voltmeter jumping around while driving threw me off and the car lighting up per usual and acting just fine electrically was interesting as all cars I've ever had batteries die would go completely out.
Apologies for not including relevant info in the OP. For anyone else, give the Z a minute to run a good charge to the battery as it pulls a ton of power.
Thanks folks!
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bith8791 (10-23-2015)