ok this may sound dumb but w/e
what does my 2003 350Z Track Edition have HP wise? someone told me it was 250 at the wheels....read another forum guy had a track edition and was putting money into it and people were sayin to put a stage 2 procharger and he'll be near 300 at the wheels...I have the Fujita Intake and Custom True Dual Exhaust stage 1 Clutchmasters Clutch and Lightweight Fidanza Flywheel. I'm thinking i'm around 270 at the wheel...and when I do the 5/16" spacer and the Underdrive Pulley and headers I'm thinking i'm gonna be around 300 wheel...am I wrong or whats yall's opinion?
yeah well the Angled AAM spacer is like $292.95 and the Skunk 2 racing 5/16" spacer is 191.95. why is that one so much more expensive for the same amount of power...don't get the reason. well with all those mod's i'm wondering where i would be at!??? Anyone with mods were are you at Power wise?
Im pretty sure Todd/aceman has like every NA bolt on for the Z and hes tuned still with less than 300hp. The Z is not easy to get 300whp with just bolt ons. I could be wrong but I dont know if its even possible without the spray or FI for the VQ35DE.
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You are 230-245whp on a Dynojet. Some dynos read lower and higher than others. You are no where near 270whp. Remember just because you have bolt-ons-and even if you had ALL of the bolt-ons you may still lose to a better driver in a stock Z. 10-30whp can easily be made up with the most important mod-the driver
If you assume that your car had the advertised 287BHP to start with, assuming a standard 15-18% drivetrain loss, you're around 235-240WHP stock. If you gained 20 WHP through your mods (which would seem reasonable), you're at 255-260 WHP.
One thing we've learned about the Z over the last couple of years is that it's pretty darn efficient from the factory, and gains from NA mods are difficult to achieve and costly.
Modding sure as hell is fun though!
One thing we've learned about the Z over the last couple of years is that it's pretty darn efficient from the factory, and gains from NA mods are difficult to achieve and costly.
Modding sure as hell is fun though!
Originally Posted by kcobean
If you gained 20 WHP through your mods (which would seem reasonable), you're at 255-260 WHP.
Originally Posted by Alberto
Damn Kelly you've been out of the game a while! I gained 23whp with all the bolt-ons AND a tune over stock NA. No way he has gained even 10whp, certainly not near a legit 260whp but what do I know

Originally Posted by Alberto
You are 230-245whp on a Dynojet. Some dynos read lower and higher than others. You are no where near 270whp. Remember just because you have bolt-ons-and even if you had ALL of the bolt-ons you may still lose to a better driver in a stock Z. 10-30whp can easily be made up with the most important mod-the driver

Originally Posted by Eric the Ricer
I need to run at the track, so I know if I'm a good driver or not. Can't wait to be judged by the greatest!
Originally Posted by got350
what does my 2003 350Z Track Edition have HP wise? someone told me it was 250 at the wheels....read another forum guy had a track edition and was putting money into it and people were sayin to put a stage 2 procharger and he'll be near 300 at the wheels...I have the Fujita Intake and Custom True Dual Exhaust stage 1 Clutchmasters Clutch and Lightweight Fidanza Flywheel. I'm thinking i'm around 270 at the wheel...and when I do the 5/16" spacer and the Underdrive Pulley and headers I'm thinking i'm gonna be around 300 wheel...am I wrong or whats yall's opinion?
Originally Posted by bigslim350Z
if you want power don't waste money buying bolt ons, go for forced induction.
As I prepare to head into the world of FI after playing the bolt-on game for 4 years - I offer this: make sure you know what you want your car to become. In othe words, know your ultimate goal before you dive head-first into modding. If you plan carefully now, most of the bolt-ons you add can be used with a FI in the future if you go that route.
Go luck to you and be safe.
-M
Originally Posted by DC350ZTrack
-couldn't be more true! Most every Z owner has gone the bolt-on route in the beginning for one reason or another. I have a 2004 Track with almost every bolt-on (minus headers) plus a UTEC and my best number has been 248 on Dyno Dynamics dyno (the "heartbreaker" dyno). To be honest, though, dyno numbers really don't mean much. You may make 2XX.XX on one dyno at one point in time and a completely different number the next day. If you improve the driver first, a stock Z can be a dangerous weapon
As I prepare to head into the world of FI after playing the bolt-on game for 4 years - I offer this: make sure you know what you want your car to become. In othe words, know your ultimate goal before you dive head-first into modding. If you plan carefully now, most of the bolt-ons you add can be used with a FI in the future if you go that route.
Go luck to you and be safe.
-M
As I prepare to head into the world of FI after playing the bolt-on game for 4 years - I offer this: make sure you know what you want your car to become. In othe words, know your ultimate goal before you dive head-first into modding. If you plan carefully now, most of the bolt-ons you add can be used with a FI in the future if you go that route.
Go luck to you and be safe.
-M
Everybody told me that I would "waste my money with bolt ons, then realize what I'm doing." So true haha. I wouldn't say I wasted the money per say, because I enjoy each one of my mods. I don't regret one thing I have put on my car, even down to my Tofu Shop windshield sticker. I'm a big fan of making the car your own, thats why you see a Tampa Bay license plate frame on every car that I drive, accompanied by an Air Force sticker somewhere else on the car.
and another +1000 on knowing what you want your car to turn out as, and contributing to that along the way.



