Mid-A Epic Random-ness Discussion Thread
02-25-2010, 06:27 PM
There's no upper bolt, but yes, you got the idea! As soon as you relieve the pressure on that lower arm, the spring pretty much comes right out. Just be careful.
02-25-2010, 06:28 PM
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W...
T....
F!!!!!!!!!!!!!
WHY DIDNT HONDA DO THIS!!!!!! THATS FRICKEN GENIUS!
Independant!!! well i'm sure its because there isnt any room for JACK around the car... soo...
WEll then.. this is definitely going to be an easy job hahahaha..
the front seems to be easy as well..
Thanks gentleman.. that settles it lol
T....
F!!!!!!!!!!!!!
WHY DIDNT HONDA DO THIS!!!!!! THATS FRICKEN GENIUS!
Independant!!! well i'm sure its because there isnt any room for JACK around the car... soo...
WEll then.. this is definitely going to be an easy job hahahaha..
the front seems to be easy as well..
Thanks gentleman.. that settles it lol
02-25-2010, 06:29 PM
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02-25-2010, 06:32 PM
Hahahaha hell yea man, floorjacks, lift, whatever. It is an easy job, and one of the best things you can do to your Z looks and performance-wise.
02-25-2010, 06:43 PM
What dude said that? He probably had no mechanical skills hahahaa
Yea Barney, I'm leaving about the same time, I can meet you somewhere. Text me where at.
Yea Barney, I'm leaving about the same time, I can meet you somewhere. Text me where at.
02-25-2010, 07:11 PM
Rears do take all of 30 minutes for both sides. It's stupid simple.
Fronts If things go smoothly should run about 30 minutes each side.
MAKE SURE you have a spring compressor, they're cheap and make for great insurance. The top of the strut where you need to grab, Whatever you call it, on my car both sides were total PITAs it took me about 10 minutes to get the strut/spring out 3 hours to get the top off and another 10 minutes to put everything back together. I can't remember if the top needs an allen key or if you just grip it with pliers. Mine was so bad I almost took a hax saw and cut the strut shaft.
One thing to keep in mind no matter what people tell you, you WILL need a camber kit on the rear. If you lower it .8" or more it wont get adjusted anywhere back to near stock specs. rear camber kit should run you around $100-120 or so. There's a lot of people who say other wise, they also have really wack camber but could care less.
I've done a lot of work on cars from basic brake work to full blown turbo installs. all said and done it took around 7 hours to do my springs. If I had to do it again Id never just swap the springs I'd do spring/strut combo so I could have zero worry about messing up the stock strut shafts. It would have saved me about 6 hours on my install. Well worth the money. Keep in mind if you do put any scratches on the shift while trying to remove the top part, over time it can cause the strut to fail.
Fronts If things go smoothly should run about 30 minutes each side.
MAKE SURE you have a spring compressor, they're cheap and make for great insurance. The top of the strut where you need to grab, Whatever you call it, on my car both sides were total PITAs it took me about 10 minutes to get the strut/spring out 3 hours to get the top off and another 10 minutes to put everything back together. I can't remember if the top needs an allen key or if you just grip it with pliers. Mine was so bad I almost took a hax saw and cut the strut shaft.
One thing to keep in mind no matter what people tell you, you WILL need a camber kit on the rear. If you lower it .8" or more it wont get adjusted anywhere back to near stock specs. rear camber kit should run you around $100-120 or so. There's a lot of people who say other wise, they also have really wack camber but could care less.
I've done a lot of work on cars from basic brake work to full blown turbo installs. all said and done it took around 7 hours to do my springs. If I had to do it again Id never just swap the springs I'd do spring/strut combo so I could have zero worry about messing up the stock strut shafts. It would have saved me about 6 hours on my install. Well worth the money. Keep in mind if you do put any scratches on the shift while trying to remove the top part, over time it can cause the strut to fail.
Last edited by jeffie7; 02-25-2010 at 07:18 PM.
02-26-2010, 04:02 AM
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Rears do take all of 30 minutes for both sides. It's stupid simple.
Fronts If things go smoothly should run about 30 minutes each side.
MAKE SURE you have a spring compressor, they're cheap and make for great insurance. The top of the strut where you need to grab, Whatever you call it, on my car both sides were total PITAs it took me about 10 minutes to get the strut/spring out 3 hours to get the top off and another 10 minutes to put everything back together. I can't remember if the top needs an allen key or if you just grip it with pliers. Mine was so bad I almost took a hax saw and cut the strut shaft.
One thing to keep in mind no matter what people tell you, you WILL need a camber kit on the rear. If you lower it .8" or more it wont get adjusted anywhere back to near stock specs. rear camber kit should run you around $100-120 or so. There's a lot of people who say other wise, they also have really wack camber but could care less.
I've done a lot of work on cars from basic brake work to full blown turbo installs. all said and done it took around 7 hours to do my springs. If I had to do it again Id never just swap the springs I'd do spring/strut combo so I could have zero worry about messing up the stock strut shafts. It would have saved me about 6 hours on my install. Well worth the money. Keep in mind if you do put any scratches on the shift while trying to remove the top part, over time it can cause the strut to fail.
Fronts If things go smoothly should run about 30 minutes each side.
MAKE SURE you have a spring compressor, they're cheap and make for great insurance. The top of the strut where you need to grab, Whatever you call it, on my car both sides were total PITAs it took me about 10 minutes to get the strut/spring out 3 hours to get the top off and another 10 minutes to put everything back together. I can't remember if the top needs an allen key or if you just grip it with pliers. Mine was so bad I almost took a hax saw and cut the strut shaft.
One thing to keep in mind no matter what people tell you, you WILL need a camber kit on the rear. If you lower it .8" or more it wont get adjusted anywhere back to near stock specs. rear camber kit should run you around $100-120 or so. There's a lot of people who say other wise, they also have really wack camber but could care less.
I've done a lot of work on cars from basic brake work to full blown turbo installs. all said and done it took around 7 hours to do my springs. If I had to do it again Id never just swap the springs I'd do spring/strut combo so I could have zero worry about messing up the stock strut shafts. It would have saved me about 6 hours on my install. Well worth the money. Keep in mind if you do put any scratches on the shift while trying to remove the top part, over time it can cause the strut to fail.
I don't mind getting spring compressors, i just never had issues to where i needed them...
but like i said on the top hat where the nut goes that holds the hat down on top of the spring ect... its always easiest to loosen that first while the car is on the ground. It's because the spring is compressed applying pressure and easier to loosen the top nut... i just get it to the point where the nut almost comes off and then i leave it there.....un bolt the rest and just pull the whole thing out.. and then proceed to just loosing the nut and everything usually just comes apart easily...
but obviously every car is different and i haven't touched the 350z yet...
Last edited by H.M.F.I.C; 02-26-2010 at 04:06 AM.
02-26-2010, 04:18 AM
yea i like to do a lot of my own stuff as I am a certified diesal mechanic. I just hate doing stuff for a living.. i do all my own stuff as well including the motor/tranny swaps and turbo installs ect ect....
I don't mind getting spring compressors, i just never had issues to where i needed them...
but like i said on the top hat where the nut goes that holds the hat down on top of the spring ect... its always easiest to loosen that first while the car is on the ground. It's because the spring is compressed applying pressure and easier to loosen the top nut... i just get it to the point where the nut almost comes off and then i leave it there.....un bolt the rest and just pull the whole thing out.. and then proceed to just loosing the nut and everything usually just comes apart easily...
but obviously every car is different and i haven't touched the 350z yet...
I don't mind getting spring compressors, i just never had issues to where i needed them...
but like i said on the top hat where the nut goes that holds the hat down on top of the spring ect... its always easiest to loosen that first while the car is on the ground. It's because the spring is compressed applying pressure and easier to loosen the top nut... i just get it to the point where the nut almost comes off and then i leave it there.....un bolt the rest and just pull the whole thing out.. and then proceed to just loosing the nut and everything usually just comes apart easily...
but obviously every car is different and i haven't touched the 350z yet...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYFOI_UsVxI
Found the video for you.
I'll have to try removing that top part of the shaft before removing the pressure from the springs, I believe it's honda that uses allen type screw on top, that's awesome, but for the strut makers that force you to use pliers.... FIAL! they just round off or at the very least get chewed up really bad.
02-26-2010, 04:23 AM
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Someone just posted videos in a random thread, maybe even this thread, of people taking springs/struts apart with out using spring compressors, I've done it before where there wasn't much pressure after releasing it, but its a very big risk, they can cause some damage if they pop.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYFOI_UsVxI
Found the video for you.
I'll have to try removing that top part of the shaft before removing the pressure from the springs, I believe it's honda that uses allen type screw on top, that's awesome, but for the strut makers that force you to use pliers.... FIAL! they just round off or at the very least get chewed up really bad.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYFOI_UsVxI
Found the video for you.
I'll have to try removing that top part of the shaft before removing the pressure from the springs, I believe it's honda that uses allen type screw on top, that's awesome, but for the strut makers that force you to use pliers.... FIAL! they just round off or at the very least get chewed up really bad.
yea honda uses the allen key which is awesome...
i've found the impact wrench is also helpful...........VERY helpful lol
02-26-2010, 04:28 AM
I don't see how you use the impact wrench, on the Z the top of the shaft is like 6mm and then you rotate the nut around the shaft.
02-26-2010, 04:30 AM
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I was set on getting an exhaust first........but after reading about how the 350z is similar to the s2000 as in coming from factory pretty maxxed out, and how bolt on's usually dont net so much hp, i've decided to concentrate that moola on the little fixtures of the car. I feel since I already bought the rims, and having the windows tinted tomorrow....i should continue that route.
Besides.... i get this feeling deep inside that i'm going to boost my z lol....it always happens lol
Besides.... i get this feeling deep inside that i'm going to boost my z lol....it always happens lol