SOLO II setups
I am loving this season (my first) of auto-xing. I went to the Evolution school back in May, and have been improving greatly at every event. I am running in BS. I plan to stay here until I learn how to drive the car competently. I probably have about 60 runs under my belt, and I am now beating all of my friends who got me involved in the sport.
My question is... what setups are other people running? I am using Falken Azenis, which aren't race tires, but they are close.
I am considering what to do for next season already, as I want to leave things simple this season to learn as much as possible.
Things I am considering for next year:
Cold Air Intake (already have an AEM sitting around)
JIC FLT2 coilovers with custom spring rates
Nismo or JIC Sway and strut Bars
Hawk HP+ brake pads
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Lightweight wheels (maybe Ce28N's in 17x9)
Kumho Victoracers, heated and shaved
Trailer and hitch to get my tires to the event
(definitely would have to be a removeable hitch)
Harnesses
More driving classes (Evo school is the best $200 I have ever spent on a car)
Thoughts? Opinions? What are other people doing? I know these mods would bump me up to ASP... but I honestly have a better chance to trophy in that class than BS. Our top two BS drivers have been competing nationally for over 10 years, and always beat the rest of the class by at least 2 seconds. I came within .5 seconds to one of them at the last event though. I have finished 3rd out of over 10 drivers in every single event, except the first one (CobShaker event).
-Jeremy
My question is... what setups are other people running? I am using Falken Azenis, which aren't race tires, but they are close.
I am considering what to do for next season already, as I want to leave things simple this season to learn as much as possible.
Things I am considering for next year:
Cold Air Intake (already have an AEM sitting around)
JIC FLT2 coilovers with custom spring rates
Nismo or JIC Sway and strut Bars
Hawk HP+ brake pads
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Lightweight wheels (maybe Ce28N's in 17x9)
Kumho Victoracers, heated and shaved
Trailer and hitch to get my tires to the event
(definitely would have to be a removeable hitch)
Harnesses
More driving classes (Evo school is the best $200 I have ever spent on a car)
Thoughts? Opinions? What are other people doing? I know these mods would bump me up to ASP... but I honestly have a better chance to trophy in that class than BS. Our top two BS drivers have been competing nationally for over 10 years, and always beat the rest of the class by at least 2 seconds. I came within .5 seconds to one of them at the last event though. I have finished 3rd out of over 10 drivers in every single event, except the first one (CobShaker event).
-Jeremy
Last edited by Monkey Man; Jun 11, 2003 at 12:22 PM.
I'm running BSP in the atlanta region.
Enkei RPO2j 17x9 all around with kuhmo 255/40-17s
Injen intake
flowmaster muffler
Thinking about getting some stock wheels again, and removing the intake to go back to B stock, but I plan on modding more, so probably wont.
Enkei RPO2j 17x9 all around with kuhmo 255/40-17s
Injen intake
flowmaster muffler
Thinking about getting some stock wheels again, and removing the intake to go back to B stock, but I plan on modding more, so probably wont.
That's a very good list of upgrades you have. The tires and rims will probably be your biggest time improvement right there. They should buy you at least a 1 sec or so over your current times.
I only saw two things missing from your list:
1. True dual exhaust -- Injen / Borla for HP/Torque bump.
2. Bigger brakes? Damn expensive but you should be able to use a big brake kit especially with those racing tires. Even though AUTOX generally does not have the high speeds it should still help some.
Also, the sway bars are those adjustable? If not you might consider getting adjustable ones to help dial in the suspension even more with your JIC suspension.
You car should kick serious booty on the track!
I only saw two things missing from your list:
1. True dual exhaust -- Injen / Borla for HP/Torque bump.
2. Bigger brakes? Damn expensive but you should be able to use a big brake kit especially with those racing tires. Even though AUTOX generally does not have the high speeds it should still help some.
Also, the sway bars are those adjustable? If not you might consider getting adjustable ones to help dial in the suspension even more with your JIC suspension.
You car should kick serious booty on the track!
You need to decide what class you want to run in and then read the rule-book to decide what mods are legal. I am pretty familiar with what is legal in stock classes, but less so in the prepared or or mod classes. However, I am pretty sure that the stainless steel brake lines are not legal in street prepared unless your car is more than 10 years old (there is some age or date cut off...older cars can run with SS lines and newer cars cannot). Also, I think that bigger brakes may not be legal in street mod, so that mod may bump you directly into a full mod class...you really don't want to run a car that is streetable in a full mod class.
Personally, I would stay in stock class even though you have the hot shoes competing with you. It is a good way to gauge your improvement over time. If you start modding, you won't know if you are getting better or if the car is just more capable.
Personally, I would stay in stock class even though you have the hot shoes competing with you. It is a good way to gauge your improvement over time. If you start modding, you won't know if you are getting better or if the car is just more capable.
I am in the same boat, running against 2 guys that have been around and won nationals several times. From what I understand to stay stock, you can change the front sway bar, can go to adjustable shocks, if we ever get any, the cat back system, go 1/2 inch bigger on rim width, and change the filter element on the air intake. Harness' are a freebie, but don't change or take out the seats.
The car is classed wrong with mods, I have heard we are in disscussion at the nat'l level to go to BSP, but right now have to go to ASP, have no idea where it goes after that. BSP we still don't have a chance, against big bore Vettes with 335's all around.
Good Luck and lobby for CSP! John
The car is classed wrong with mods, I have heard we are in disscussion at the nat'l level to go to BSP, but right now have to go to ASP, have no idea where it goes after that. BSP we still don't have a chance, against big bore Vettes with 335's all around.
Good Luck and lobby for CSP! John
Originally posted by rktjhn
From what I understand to stay stock, you can change the front sway bar, can go to adjustable shocks, if we ever get any, the cat back system, go 1/2 inch bigger on rim width
From what I understand to stay stock, you can change the front sway bar, can go to adjustable shocks, if we ever get any, the cat back system, go 1/2 inch bigger on rim width
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SS brake lines are permitted in street prepared, but I think the coilovers will require a move to the prepared class. Agree with recommendation to review the rule book, as it's very confusing.
Because of my mods, I've been running in the street prepared class, but my local gurus told me it should be BSP not ASP. The rule book does not address this at all, only states that the unmodded 350Z is B Stock. Where did you guys learn that ASP is the right class?
For the first few weeks, I ran on the OEM Potenzas, which weren't very sticky, did a lot of sliding around, and tried to compensate with tire pressure adjustments (F40, R32).
I just put on Toyo Proxes T1-S's, which are a LOT stickier and overall the car handles much better both on street and track. However, the understeer problem is much more pronounced because the car's sticking like glue in the corners instead of sliding. I chalked the tires and adjusted the pressures to eliminate rollover (F40, R30), but the understeer problem was still horrendous. Last week on a fast course, I needed so much extra braking into the corners to reduce the cornering speed that I ended up with brake fade. Obviously, the long-term answer is sway bars, but what should I try with the tire pressures in the meantime?
Because of my mods, I've been running in the street prepared class, but my local gurus told me it should be BSP not ASP. The rule book does not address this at all, only states that the unmodded 350Z is B Stock. Where did you guys learn that ASP is the right class?
For the first few weeks, I ran on the OEM Potenzas, which weren't very sticky, did a lot of sliding around, and tried to compensate with tire pressure adjustments (F40, R32).
I just put on Toyo Proxes T1-S's, which are a LOT stickier and overall the car handles much better both on street and track. However, the understeer problem is much more pronounced because the car's sticking like glue in the corners instead of sliding. I chalked the tires and adjusted the pressures to eliminate rollover (F40, R30), but the understeer problem was still horrendous. Last week on a fast course, I needed so much extra braking into the corners to reduce the cornering speed that I ended up with brake fade. Obviously, the long-term answer is sway bars, but what should I try with the tire pressures in the meantime?
Originally posted by KCZ
SS brake lines are permitted in street prepared, but I think the coilovers will require a move to the prepared class.
SS brake lines are permitted in street prepared, but I think the coilovers will require a move to the prepared class.
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