what suspension set ups are you track/autoxers running?
#1
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what suspension set ups are you track/autoxers running?
I"m lookin into suspension right now. Leaning towards JIC's and undecided on sway bars at the moment. BUt I'm curious to what set ups you guys are running and if you like them. The car handles very well stock, I would hate mod it and develop worse handling. Thanks a head of time for the info!
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I went with the S Tune shocks and springs to start out with. I think I've decided on the 350evo sway bars as well. Handling has only improved, and street driving isn't hindered with this set up. When I make this a strictly track car, I'll probably go with an adjustable set up, but that's still pretty far off.
#3
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I'm running the JIC coilovers and 350Evo sway bars. Car handles great, and rotates much much better than it did out of the box.
However, the problem with JIC is that JIC itself has some of the worst customer service and it's quite possible you'll get the wrong suspension or an incomplete package from them. I will elaborate on the hell I've had with these baffoons tonight in a lengthy thread. And you know what, I'm still missing parts from them and at this point, I'm not certain I'll ever get them. The finger pointing contest has gone on long enough.
However, the problem with JIC is that JIC itself has some of the worst customer service and it's quite possible you'll get the wrong suspension or an incomplete package from them. I will elaborate on the hell I've had with these baffoons tonight in a lengthy thread. And you know what, I'm still missing parts from them and at this point, I'm not certain I'll ever get them. The finger pointing contest has gone on long enough.
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I'm using 350EVO swaybars with OEM springs and shocks. Front set to soft and rear set to medium. So far it's worked well at Texas Motor Speedway and on the short course at Texas World Speedway. I willl probably tinker with the setting at Texas World Speedway in October, just to see how the different setting behave.
I've heard good things about the JIC coilovers and how they improve handling... that may be in the future for me.
PeteH
I've heard good things about the JIC coilovers and how they improve handling... that may be in the future for me.
PeteH
#6
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see my mods below. I use to get beat by the stock s-2000's by 1-1.8 seconds, now I'm whipping them by 1-2 seconds! Wheels/tires had a great deal to do with it though since I was running track wheels with 225/35 and 265/35. I should have gone 265/35's in front, that would have made me probably even with them.
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are the nismo sway bars adjustable? also I'm guessing all u guys with jic's are runnign the stock springs they come with?
ZOAISIS - what class are u running in?
ZOAISIS - what class are u running in?
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#8
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Originally posted by CarFanatic
are the nismo sway bars adjustable? also I'm guessing all u guys with jic's are runnign the stock springs they come with?
ZOAISIS - what class are u running in?
are the nismo sway bars adjustable? also I'm guessing all u guys with jic's are runnign the stock springs they come with?
ZOAISIS - what class are u running in?
I'm running SM2 because of the Stoptechs. I'm going to go back to stock brakes for nationals though so I'll be in BSP so I won't have to go up against any modded ZO6's!!!
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ZOasis
Glad you are doing well! What are your (And others too) sway bar and JIC settings for AutoCross and Tracks days?
I have the Evo sways and am also looking for a decent suspension to do better in AutoX
Mid/Mid worked ok but I feel like I should change it.
Thanks!
Glad you are doing well! What are your (And others too) sway bar and JIC settings for AutoCross and Tracks days?
I have the Evo sways and am also looking for a decent suspension to do better in AutoX
Mid/Mid worked ok but I feel like I should change it.
Thanks!
#10
I have been running BS in Solo2 events, have 225 front and 265 rear(Kumho) Pressure seems to be a big factor, lately I have been 40 front 33 rear, on concrete have been to 44 and 39. Just put the Stillen adj bar up front on med, and will advise if it helps or not. Also found a 245/35-18 Hoosier A formula for the front and will try that also.
So far got a 2nd at the New Mexico divisional and a 3rd at the Colorado divisional, my Pax ranking keeps improving every week, and will be one of 5 350's at the Nationals in Topeka.
Mods include the Borla true dual and the KN replacement filter, both seem to give more power, at teh ProSolo in Wendover I got a 1.9 60 foot time, and was happy as I could take the s2000, Cobras, BMW's and a Vette off the line, even beat the guy that will probably be Natl BS champ to the other end of the course!
So far got a 2nd at the New Mexico divisional and a 3rd at the Colorado divisional, my Pax ranking keeps improving every week, and will be one of 5 350's at the Nationals in Topeka.
Mods include the Borla true dual and the KN replacement filter, both seem to give more power, at teh ProSolo in Wendover I got a 1.9 60 foot time, and was happy as I could take the s2000, Cobras, BMW's and a Vette off the line, even beat the guy that will probably be Natl BS champ to the other end of the course!
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I am currently racing in bs aswell. But next year I will be in bsp. ITs a tough class. I see most guys are running the 350evo bars, I'll look into them more. ARe you guys happy with your JIC'S I heard alot of peoples came with missing parts.
#13
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Originally posted by CarFanatic
also I'm guessing all u guys with jic's are runnign the stock springs they come with?
also I'm guessing all u guys with jic's are runnign the stock springs they come with?
#16
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Originally posted by John
What was missing? The upper rubber mounts for the rear springs and the adjustment tools; plus the brackets for the front brakes lines don't fit. After many phone calls, JIC has agreed (and humbly apologized) to send me the parts.
What was missing? The upper rubber mounts for the rear springs and the adjustment tools; plus the brackets for the front brakes lines don't fit. After many phone calls, JIC has agreed (and humbly apologized) to send me the parts.
Adjustment tools... thats kinda odd. And yeah, the front brackets were of a poor design, as if they were rushed onto the market to start selling the setup. (which they did a pretty good job, seems like 1/2 of the people here run flt-a2's).
#17
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Originally posted by Topics II
I also didnt get the rear upper rubber. Mine is in the mail now...
Adjustment tools... thats kinda odd. And yeah, the front brackets were of a poor design, as if they were rushed onto the market to start selling the setup. (which they did a pretty good job, seems like 1/2 of the people here run flt-a2's).
I also didnt get the rear upper rubber. Mine is in the mail now...
Adjustment tools... thats kinda odd. And yeah, the front brackets were of a poor design, as if they were rushed onto the market to start selling the setup. (which they did a pretty good job, seems like 1/2 of the people here run flt-a2's).
#18
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SCCA Classification Question
I've been looking over the allowed modifications for the stock class, and it looks like the front anti-roll bar can be changed. I'm guessing that something like the Cusco or S-Tune front bar would be OK. Does this also mean an adjustable one like the 350EVO bar would be allowed?
I'm thinking that one possible way to combat understeer would be to stiffen the front anti-roll bar in order to help keep the outside tire flatter during cornering. Since we seem to need more neg. camber in front perhaps reducing the roll would provide similar benefits.
Also, (I think this has been mentioned before) if you really tighten the front STB, would you be able to "twist" the frame enough to induce any additional camber? Is that allowed under the rules?
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
D'oh!
I'm thinking that one possible way to combat understeer would be to stiffen the front anti-roll bar in order to help keep the outside tire flatter during cornering. Since we seem to need more neg. camber in front perhaps reducing the roll would provide similar benefits.
Also, (I think this has been mentioned before) if you really tighten the front STB, would you be able to "twist" the frame enough to induce any additional camber? Is that allowed under the rules?
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
D'oh!
Last edited by D'oh; 08-18-2003 at 11:35 PM.
#19
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I think you're going to have a lot of diffulty "twisting" the chassis to get more camber since the chassis is already so damn stiff. Case in point, when my car was on jackstands in my garage, I realized that in fact it was only resting on 3 jackstands since the floor wasn't entirely level. While I don't want to try and prove it, I think you could drive around on three wheels as long as one of the wheels that is missing is a rear wheel. The only time I've seen this done was when a wheel was shattered in the Deutschland 2002 rally and the WRX continued driving the stage on 3 wheels (and finished the stage)...
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Also (re camber control), I don't think front camber-loss is a principle cause of the Z understeer. Sure, it would be advantageous to be able to replicate the rear camber, but, my sense is that the real problem is front roll stiffness is too great vs. rear. Has anyone tried using a softer front swaybar?
And, there may also be some compression toe-in increase at the rear (I hope not).
I suspect the understeer is the result of many small things -- sort of, the death of a thousand cuts.
And, there may also be some compression toe-in increase at the rear (I hope not).
I suspect the understeer is the result of many small things -- sort of, the death of a thousand cuts.