Nexx

iTrader: (41)

honest, no holds bar truth.


259whp after all that? .... complete waste of money imho. the dyno drops off after 6500rpm, is the car not capable of more? if it cant rev to all holy hell and only produces 259whp, what was the point of the build?

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

From the very first post

1cockyZ

iTrader: (46)

The addition of 264 cams and dc headers then you have my build. The other mods are almost exactly the same. This build was done for piece of mind for the owner who just wants the car to not break on the road course. With a nice smooth power delivery. Take it as another what would this do if I did something like this. The larger database of combinations and results the better educated we can all be. Besides from a cost standpoint cams new are over 1k and thats like 3-4 track days. Guess whats more fun track days or cams.

Nexx

iTrader: (41)

i know this. but realistically, can a stock block with cooling upgrades not handle the track and be reliable? im thinking koyo rad, oil cooler upgrade, vented hood, nismo stat, oil catch can, evans coolant, GTM fan upgrade and some good race synthetic oil and your good to go or am i too naive?

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

When it comes to serious tracking, there is no right setup. Some will have better luck than others.

Half the things in your list are a waste, and won't save a motor from a cracked ring land

Axelerate

iTrader: (19)

I'm a instructor and I daily my z and track it pretty hard. All I have on that list is a nismo rad cap and a catch can. I haven't felt the need for further cooling mods and engines can go at any time. I've seen it happen at the track to 350's before.

I just do my normal maintenance, keep it tunned and hope for the best! I'm at around 40,000 miles on the motor.






How many miles were on the car before it went???

mthreat

iTrader: (16)

I know I could have gotten a bit more power with cams, headers, etc, but that wasn't my goal. I've had crawford headers before and I actually went back to stock because they didn't add any power (for me), and they got so hot it burned my EVAP line.

I had already added a Koyo 54mm radiator and stillen oil cooler, but before I had added these, it got pretty hot a few times. I datalogged the coolant temp at 246 degrees F once. Maybe this started the seed of engine damage (it lasted another year before it died). The engine had 75k when it died. Even with the cooling mods it gets pretty hot. Maybe I just have my foot on the gas more than others at the track


75k miles. I don't think it was normal for my engine to go when it did -- it could have been something I did (overheat it, or whatever).

I plan to install an oil temp gauge to keep a better eye on the temps. In the meantime, the stock (coolant) temp gauge hasn't been over 1/2.

Nexx

iTrader: (41)

if you beat your car that much then more power to you on this build since its seems its absolutely needed.

mthreat

iTrader: (16)

My Berk metallic high-flow cats came apart, details in this thread: https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...f-use-n-a.html

I've ordered Kinetix resonated test pipes. I'm running the stock cats for now. I'm actually enjoying the quietness of the stock cats with the Fujitsubo titanium exhaust.

mthreat

iTrader: (16)

I received and installed the Kinetix resonated test pipes tonight. I did about 15 minutes of driving afterwards. I was surprised -- they actually seem to be quieter than my (blown-out) Berk metallic high-flow cats. From inside the car, they have less of the sound I don't like around 4000 rpms. I'm not sure if it's rasp or not -- it's hard to tell from inside the car, but in any case, I think they actually sound better.

As for power, compared to the stock cats I'd been running for the past week, I can feel more power (no surprise here). I had also been running rich with the stock cats, and now I'm back where I want to be with respect to air/fuel ratio (which probably also helps the power a bit). The fitment wasn't quite as good as the stock cats - the y-pipe flex-joint had to flex a bit more, but it went together okay. Overall, I'm happy. I'll abuse them at the track this weekend.

On another note, I changed the oil again (1060 miles on this oil, 4200 on the engine), and I'll be sending this sample (of Mobil1 0W-40) off for another oil analysis, results to be posted on the VQ oil analysis thread.

Nismospeed4life

iTrader: (21)

^^Subscribing

Nismospeed4life

iTrader: (21)

Any sound clips?

mthreat

iTrader: (16)

No, sorry. Maybe I'll try to get some drive-by video+audio at the track this weekend. But sound clips rarely give a good indication of what it really sounds like, unless you're using pretty good sound equipment.

mthreat

iTrader: (16)

A few updates. I've posted my 2nd used oil analysis results -- this time I used Mobil1 0W-40. I chose this oil because of the favorable reviews on the oil analysis thread. My results are posted on that thread:

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...ml#post7302747


I also installed a Defi oil temperature sensor & gauge. I installed the temp sensor in a "T" on the oil line coming from the sandwich plate TO the oil cooler, so it will be reading the oil temp BEFORE being cooled. So far I've only driven it on the street, and my oil temps 180F for normal driving, up to maybe 190F if I push it (on the street). I'm very curious to see what they are at the track. I've never had any indication of my oil temps, so I feel like I'm no longer blind in this regard.

This brings me to a total of three add-on gauges: 2 widebands (left & right bank), and oil temperature. Now I have to find a place to put/mount these things, not to mention all the power wiring I had to run behind the radio. I really don't want to put them in an A-pillar gauge, due to the extra harassment from cops as well as "street racer" harassment ('ooh he has gauges, he must want to race me'). People see those gauge pillars and start making assumptions. Anyway that's another thread. But I have come to the opinion that gauges are stupid. Can't I just get a (reasonably-priced) screen that displays whatever sensors I hook up to it, maybe even with configurable alarms if the oil temp gets too high, for instance? Basically I want what the GT-R comes with, and I don't want to pay $2000 or even $1000 for it. All that said, I may have to get an triple gauge A-pillar pod anyway... any recommendations on these (good fit, not ugly)?

The engine itself seems to be doing fine. I didn't get any sound clips at the track last time because I had a bad brake vibration problem (fixed now) so I stopped running. I've been thinking about getting the Cosworth intake manifold. It probably won't add very much power (hey, it's N/A!), but it may have more even airflow to the cylinders (so the fronts aren't running too lean, or something). It would replace my CrawfordZ plenum. It would also allow me to get rid of my CrawfordZ strut brace, and put the OEM one back. And it looks bad ***. But it's also $1000 so I'm not in any rush.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

there are a few options for what you want, but they will be approaching the $1000 mark by the time it's said and done

PLX has a nice setup - single gauge that displays multiple data streams as you add multiple sensors. We're going to be using this in one of our older Z's soon because there really is no place for gauges in those cars (S30 chassis). Give me a call if you want to go over options.

Blitz also has their RVit Flash 2.0 that you can add air fuel, temp and pressure sensors to. A nice compact setup that won't take up alot of room, and would display all the data you need. These are about the size of Blitz's boost controllers (i-color) so it's easy to set it up in multiple locations.



http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...mt&prodid=3828

mthreat

iTrader: (16)

Adam, thanks for the gauge info. That's definitely the way to go (for me at least)... next time I get gauges, I'll get one of those setups.

Update from the track: This weekend was the first time I was able to see my oil temperatures at the track. As noted above, I placed the oil temperature sensor on the line BEFORE the oil cooler. The highest oil temperature I saw all day was 260 degrees F, which was good news to me. I don't know what temp the oil is after the external oil cooler, does anyone know approximately how much these reduce the temps? Stillen's site says 30-40 degrees, but of course this depends on the outside air temperature. The outdoor temp this weekend at the track was up to 90 degrees (hot Texas weather).

On another note, I tried the new Yokohama ADVAN AD08 tires. The grip was great, I think they are faster but I had a lot of sessions with a passenger, and my times in summer are usually slower than the colder months, so I didn't break my best lap time. Unfortunately, on the 2nd day, I noticed the front right tire had started "chunking" or something, around the edge - see photos. This was definitely unexpected -- I have run the old Yokohama AD07 tires a few times and never had any chunking problems.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

I'd probably measure the temp post cooler...so you know exactly what is being fed to the engine. Post cooler I guess it will depend on lots of factors, not the least of which is the efficiency of the core. If you're using Stillens cooler, I guess you can go off their suggestions.

For the tires, I'm not familiar with those, but if they are street tires, you're finding the limits of the amount of heat they will deal with. This is where r compounds truly shine. If you're chunking the outer edge, you should try a bit more pressure - and you can hose them down between runs to get some heat out of them. The tire is telling you that you've got too much heat concentrated on it's outer edge. Increasing the pressure will help spread that heat across the face of the tire better. Pick up digital pyrometer from Pegasus or something and bring , with you next time, I swear it will be the single most important thing you take with you! Take the temps outer, middle, inner, between runs, front and back, as soon as you can and start playing with the pressures accordingly.

sfarrah

iTrader: (4)

How much camber are you running? Wondering if adding a little more negative camber will give the outer tread blocks less of a workout. What are your typical wear patterns?

mthreat

iTrader: (16)

Yeah I've been pushing the limits of street tires for a while. I just love keeping up with (or passing) those 415-hp corvettes with hoosiers on the track! I actually had my pyrometer with me, but I hadn't checked my own temps by the time I noticed the chunking. I was too busy helping my student check his outer/middle/inner temps

I am running -2.0 degrees front camber... I can definitely use more negative for the track. Since I drive it on the street a lot, I usually end up wearing the insides first..but I think I should move to -2.5 or so. It may save my tires AND make me faster at the same time...


I showed Colin at Soulspeed and he said it didn't seem right, especially since I never had this happen with AD07's (the predecessor to the yokohama AD08). We sent pics to the yokohama rep and they asked us if we could send the tire in so they can check it out. I think I probably should be doing a heat cycle on new tires 24-48 hours before hitting the track...

I'll be at TWS again this weekend for driver's edge, but I don't think I'll have my tire back so I may be rockin my '93 del Sol this time. I guess I can hope it rains, so I can continue to pass the corvettes

sfarrah

iTrader: (4)

I think it's time for some dedicated track wheels and r compounds.