Any decent NA VQ35DE builds around?
06-20-2009 | 08:52 PM
#21
Before I answer what you would need to "transform" your vehicle might I ask why it is that you would want to do such a thing?
That is a pretty baseless comment since there has yet to be a fully built NA HR motor and very few that have been worked to the extent of the DEs. The very few that have had an NA focus put on them have actually shown quite the contrary to what you have stated.
06-20-2009 | 11:39 PM
#22
Thought this would help ya a little...
GL with whatever your trying to accomplish here, but something tells me that you're not to savvy on modifying cars or anything. It all takes money, wait, a ton of money to make these cars "quote fast as n/a "end quote, but this link has been in the top 6-7 links in this section since I started it. Few thinks it's worthless for whatever reason, most liked the idea. Hope it answers some questions as to what you want.
https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/4...ost-em-up.html
GL with whatever your trying to accomplish here, but something tells me that you're not to savvy on modifying cars or anything. It all takes money, wait, a ton of money to make these cars "quote fast as n/a "end quote, but this link has been in the top 6-7 links in this section since I started it. Few thinks it's worthless for whatever reason, most liked the idea. Hope it answers some questions as to what you want.
https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/4...ost-em-up.html
Last edited by 3_FILTHY_Z; 06-20-2009 at 11:44 PM.
06-20-2009 | 11:59 PM
#23
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 0
From: Rapid City, SD Ellsworth AFB
It depends what you want. I personally think the DE is a better engine with a better possibility of pushing power out of it than the HR. And i like more torque.
I would start with some more simple things like plenum, exhaust, HFC/tests, intake then clutch, flywheel, then move to pulleys, cams, and then on deeper into the block such as port polish, valves, pistons, etc then fuel system if needed (rails, injectors), blah blah.
I like to start with simple bolt-ons first, then into the head, then into the block. But thats just me, and doing any engine work is a CONSTANT balancing act.
Do your research and realize before you do this that the FI f**kers are right...your gonna dump a ton of money to gain minimal horsepower, but its much more fun and a better learning experience about the overall engine this way...and its not instant power like a turbo setup with just one really expensive mod.
BTW, if you search WITHIN THE N/A thread you will pull up only N/A threads. Go figure.
GL
I would start with some more simple things like plenum, exhaust, HFC/tests, intake then clutch, flywheel, then move to pulleys, cams, and then on deeper into the block such as port polish, valves, pistons, etc then fuel system if needed (rails, injectors), blah blah.
I like to start with simple bolt-ons first, then into the head, then into the block. But thats just me, and doing any engine work is a CONSTANT balancing act.
Do your research and realize before you do this that the FI f**kers are right...your gonna dump a ton of money to gain minimal horsepower, but its much more fun and a better learning experience about the overall engine this way...and its not instant power like a turbo setup with just one really expensive mod.
BTW, if you search WITHIN THE N/A thread you will pull up only N/A threads. Go figure.
GL
06-21-2009 | 07:22 AM
#24
revup cams are for revup engines, non revup cams are for non revup engines, HR cams are for HR engines. They don't interchange. Given that the aftermarket makes cams for all of them, no one is left out in the cold
swapping engines is really not feasible nor cost effective - if you have a desire for a particular engine as your starting block for whatever reason, sell the car, and buy the one that had that engine in the first place
As for the builds, those who have done it have outlined everything in this section and you can check the shop builds section for Ivory's car.
swapping engines is really not feasible nor cost effective - if you have a desire for a particular engine as your starting block for whatever reason, sell the car, and buy the one that had that engine in the first place
As for the builds, those who have done it have outlined everything in this section and you can check the shop builds section for Ivory's car.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 06-21-2009 at 07:29 AM.
06-21-2009 | 07:25 AM
#25
Well if you knew anything about higher hp applications. You'd know that the HR is far more superior to the DE because of the much better flowing heads. In N/A applications the power made mostly is from the heads. So after the port work, the flow benching, the intake porting etc the HR will always do better than the DE. Let alone the HR with bolt ons on DJ's produce a bit more power than mild built up DE's.
tell us how you know the HR heads flow "much better" than the DE?
06-21-2009 | 07:26 AM
#26
It depends what you want. I personally think the DE is a better engine with a better possibility of pushing power out of it than the HR. And i like more torque.
I would start with some more simple things like plenum, exhaust, HFC/tests, intake then clutch, flywheel, then move to pulleys, cams, and then on deeper into the block such as port polish, valves, pistons, etc then fuel system if needed (rails, injectors), blah blah.
I like to start with simple bolt-ons first, then into the head, then into the block. But thats just me, and doing any engine work is a CONSTANT balancing act.
Do your research and realize before you do this that the FI f**kers are right...your gonna dump a ton of money to gain minimal horsepower, but its much more fun and a better learning experience about the overall engine this way...and its not instant power like a turbo setup with just one really expensive mod.
BTW, if you search WITHIN THE N/A thread you will pull up only N/A threads. Go figure.
GL
I would start with some more simple things like plenum, exhaust, HFC/tests, intake then clutch, flywheel, then move to pulleys, cams, and then on deeper into the block such as port polish, valves, pistons, etc then fuel system if needed (rails, injectors), blah blah.
I like to start with simple bolt-ons first, then into the head, then into the block. But thats just me, and doing any engine work is a CONSTANT balancing act.
Do your research and realize before you do this that the FI f**kers are right...your gonna dump a ton of money to gain minimal horsepower, but its much more fun and a better learning experience about the overall engine this way...and its not instant power like a turbo setup with just one really expensive mod.
BTW, if you search WITHIN THE N/A thread you will pull up only N/A threads. Go figure.
GL
06-21-2009 | 09:32 AM
#28
A successful project car is not about the final horsepower # - unless that is what you're chasing. Different means towards the same end. The most important thing in ANY project is building the car for YOU - doing it for any other reason will generally lead time disappointment, unfulfilled goals, and problem after problem
Ya....i know....thats basically why im telling him. Many people new to this, as i still am, are under the impression that building up an NA motor will yeild the same or close to that of FI, which of course is not true dollar wise.
Its simply a choice on what you want, like you stated. Many new to this think its safer to build an NA motor (for the engine) and just as effective as FI, which again, is not the case. Unfortunately many seeking to modify a car are simply seeking more HP, in which case, money wise, this is not the route to take.
06-21-2009 | 10:57 AM
#29
revup cams are for revup engines, non revup cams are for non revup engines, HR cams are for HR engines. They don't interchange. Given that the aftermarket makes cams for all of them, no one is left out in the cold
swapping engines is really not feasible nor cost effective - if you have a desire for a particular engine as your starting block for whatever reason, sell the car, and buy the one that had that engine in the first place
As for the builds, those who have done it have outlined everything in this section and you can check the shop builds section for Ivory's car.
swapping engines is really not feasible nor cost effective - if you have a desire for a particular engine as your starting block for whatever reason, sell the car, and buy the one that had that engine in the first place
As for the builds, those who have done it have outlined everything in this section and you can check the shop builds section for Ivory's car.
And yes, he is correct, these cams will not interchange, nor do i understand why you would even want to interchange even if they were transferable.
Plenty of aftermarket companies make great replacement cams for the DE.
06-21-2009 | 01:12 PM
#30
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 167
Likes: 1
From: Conyers Ga
i was not worried about cost per horsepower, why would you even think that? I fully realize that a turbo/supercharger/nitrous would ad more power. it would also put me in a less competitive racing bracket. FI is a nasty group lol. little light cars with too much damn power. NA is a bit more evened out, at least in my area.
and as for the cams, I found the rev-up's a hell of alot cheaper than the non-rev-ups, wanted to see if I could act on that.
and as for the cams, I found the rev-up's a hell of alot cheaper than the non-rev-ups, wanted to see if I could act on that.
06-21-2009 | 07:26 PM
#32
06-22-2009 | 05:37 AM
#34
Revup cams can go into a nonrevup you just need to time the cams accordingly. This is usually only done in road racing in stock classes or ones that don't allow cams but retrofitting is allowed. Something about removing a pin on the face of the exhaust cam is involved. But seriously a mod should have deleted this thread from inception.
06-22-2009 | 06:34 AM
#35
Revup cams can go into a nonrevup you just need to time the cams accordingly. This is usually only done in road racing in stock classes or ones that don't allow cams but retrofitting is allowed. Something about removing a pin on the face of the exhaust cam is involved. But seriously a mod should have deleted this thread from inception.
06-22-2009 | 01:18 PM
#37
06-22-2009 | 03:29 PM
#38
I maybe the only lost one here but OP are you looking to install OEM Rev-up camshafts or aftermarket?
Yes, the OEM Rev-up camshafts do offer more duration and lift then the Non Rev-ups, but for someone who is not doing this install on their own (as stated previously) and someone looking to do a full NA build as stated before what would be the point of installing OEM Rev-up camshafts? I don't think it'd be worth the time and/or labor.
With the exception of JWT (my information is strictly based off of their website as I have never spoken to anyone at Jim Wolf personally nor do we offer their products) most of the major manufacturers offer the same camshafts for the Non Rev-Ups as they do the Rev-Ups.
Yes, the OEM Rev-up camshafts do offer more duration and lift then the Non Rev-ups, but for someone who is not doing this install on their own (as stated previously) and someone looking to do a full NA build as stated before what would be the point of installing OEM Rev-up camshafts? I don't think it'd be worth the time and/or labor.
With the exception of JWT (my information is strictly based off of their website as I have never spoken to anyone at Jim Wolf personally nor do we offer their products) most of the major manufacturers offer the same camshafts for the Non Rev-Ups as they do the Rev-Ups.
06-22-2009 | 04:59 PM
#39
it was actually 438 hp, and keep in mind, this is crank hp, so at the wheels it'd prolly be something like 370-400 depending on the dyno
and +1 on that 20k +
06-22-2009 | 07:32 PM
#40
I was actually talking to one of their engineers and he said they have full race set ups that run on 115 oct.+ fuel, with some new cams they have, and a redline of 9500rpm, they were making 450bhp. By the way you can always make more power by dumping all the unnecessary reciprocating mass you don't need and under driving.
Note: the b in bhp means power that is meassured at the flywheel.
Note: the b in bhp means power that is meassured at the flywheel.
Last edited by jwttz; 06-23-2009 at 03:07 AM.