Most Beneficial Gauges for Fully Built NA application
Hey Guys- I'm completing a fully built VQ35DE in my 03 Maxima, and would like to know what you guys believe are the most beneficial gauges to have. I'm going the Defi BF route and have the Controller II already. Just trying to make up my mind on which gauges would best monitor my setup. My build consist of everything from 11.1:1 Weisco, to 264/264 BC Cams. I was thinking, Fuel Pressure, Water Temp, and Exhaust gauges would be the best route.
Opinions and reasons are more then welcome.
-Paramy
Opinions and reasons are more then welcome.
-Paramy
Figured the Water Temp for sure. I'm trying to keep it a sleeper, probably mount the gauges in the glove box. It's not aggressive, but it might turn out that way when I'm done. I just want a clean look. Anyrate, back to the gauges......
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I'm thinking Water Temp as in Coolant Temp being the same difference. Am I right? Is this what it measures? If so, I went from the stock thermostat to the 350z thermostat, and in the built motor I've got a Nismo thermostat to go in it. Just want to keep it in check. And I get a more accurate figure with the Defi one vs the stock in the bezel. Again, that's to say these 2 are one in the same.
most crucial things to monitor:
a/f, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, egt, intake air temp
Of those, a 350z has the oil pressure and water temp so no reason to get another gauge for them (g35's don't have pressure so i need one for mine).
a/f and oil temp probably the 2 top.
IAT and EGT isn't really needed for on the fly checking but it's good if you ever get a datalogger.
a/f, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, egt, intake air temp
Of those, a 350z has the oil pressure and water temp so no reason to get another gauge for them (g35's don't have pressure so i need one for mine).
a/f and oil temp probably the 2 top.
IAT and EGT isn't really needed for on the fly checking but it's good if you ever get a datalogger.
I don't think different thermostats change the calibration of the stock water(coolant) temp sensor, it might appear your engine isn't fully warming up though with the nismo because it opens earlier.
I need to find a oil pressure and a/f for my car don't really see a need for egt without FI
I need to find a oil pressure and a/f for my car don't really see a need for egt without FI
If you were to spend money on a built block you will also be thinking about any precautionary measure to catch a problem before it becomes severe.
Would a 13:1 CR NA engine be safe? How about revving to or past 8000 rpm? It's not accurate to make a blanket statement like you did, is what I'm getting to.
If you were to spend money on a built block you will also be thinking about any precautionary measure to catch a problem before it becomes severe.
If you were to spend money on a built block you will also be thinking about any precautionary measure to catch a problem before it becomes severe.
Second, if he were running the engine you're talking about then I doubt he'd have it in a daily driver...which is what we are talking about. A Race car is a different story.
Third, If he had a bad tune on that engine it will last longer than a bad tune on a FI engine. N/A engines are so much weaker ( in power output ) than FI engines that you can have audible knock WAY before the engine blows. A FI engine on the other hand may not last long enough for you to even hear the knock to begin with.
I've owned both types of engines before ( well, I've had various FI engines and my brother has had various high strung N/A engines ) and the difference is HUGE in how much you have to nany a FI engines vs. a N/A one.
I still say that IMO there is no need for anything other than a wideband and a N/A engine is more predictable than a FI one.
Last edited by GT-ER; Feb 19, 2010 at 06:07 AM.
GT-ER, I think you're missing Gabe's point. I too think that the OP's build doesn't need much more if anything in the way of gauges, but to say all or most NA builds don't need to be monitored closer than stock is not a sound statement. Sure, mod for mod an FI engine would be more sensetive and require monitoring on a closer basis but to say they don't need it because they don't have the output is not correct. On a car that is pushing rev limits oil temps are vital and exhaust gas temps begin to be useful when your tune is getting aggressive enough. And yes a bad tune on a FI car is worst than a NA, but just barely. A bad tune will kill both quicker than you can shut it down without proper monitoring. Don't take this as a bash we're just saying don't discount it because its NA and not FI.
Last edited by Zazz93; Feb 19, 2010 at 06:17 AM.








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