gabe3d

iTrader: (8)

Whether it's a race or street engine, it's an investment nonetheless. Having gauges to monitor the health of your car is always better to prolong the life of that investment. Further more, a modified engine will always open the door to possible problems (not only knock).

GT-ER

iTrader: (4)

Most people don't realize that the majority of the problems ( engine failure problems ) you'll face with a N/A engine cannot be solved by adding guages...they can only be solved by doing things right to begin with and thinking ahead to ensure you are doing it right. But once it's up and running and you got a good tune...everything else is pretty much "cross your fingers". I say "get a wideband" because it tends to be the most that varies, but even that may not save you from anything.

People can put all the guages they want if it makes them feel better and safer...nothing wrong with that....but in MY experience...most are simply not that important. After all, it was MY opinion.

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Amen

gabe3d

iTrader: (8)

Agreed and I don't think anyone ever insinuated that gauges will solve any problem. No matter how good your engine builder/tuner is and how much planning you do ahead of time, the fact of the matter is that it will never be as reliable as stock. Once you are attuned to looking at those vital signs, a slight change that you caught early on can go a long way. Usually when something goes wrong it won't be all of sudden. FI might accelerate a block issue but that doesn't mean that it's not there.

Anyways, it's like you said it's your opinion but all I'm saying is that gauges (aside from AFR) are not useless on ALL NA cars like you mentioned.

Kwame

iTrader: (78)

I'm going to ride out with GT-ER on this one. I plan on only running an AFR gauge on a stroked, blah, blah, etc. NA build. Hell up until only recently has Adam being running only an 07 cluster (for it's higher redline) in his car. Lol, as a matter of fact I remember when he didn't even have the cluster and he shifted at around 8400 by sound, lolololol that is kinda funny now that I think about it.

Edit: Crap, OP has a Maxima so he/she doesn't have an oil pressure gauge like Zs do. In that case I'd probably also get an Oil Pressure/Oil temp gauge as well.

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Oh... I missed that too. I still stand behind my AFR and Oil Temp gauge recomendation. IMHO any car with that motor should have had a oil temp gauge from the factory (or at least a similar limp sensor to the REV-UPs and VHRs), especially considering how small the cooler is on most applications. It might have saved my original motor.

gabe3d

iTrader: (8)

Agreed on those gauges, but no point in rehashing what the OP has decided on already. I will also be running the same gauges when my car is done(AFR, Oil temp and pressure since my G doesn't have it).

GT-ER

iTrader: (4)

I would just get a good oil cooler and the oil temps should take care of themselves. Oil pressure is something that you may want to monitor...all though if you lose it at 7000+rpm...you lose your engine as well so a guage really won't help you their. I'm basing the lack of needing an oil pressure guage assuming the car has some sort of buzzer or something that actually works if oil pressure is low ( Don't know if the maxima does or even if my G does ).

In any case, I may consider an oil pressure guage if the car really doesn't already have a safety feature for lack of oil pressure ( or if you simply don't know like myself ).

deckdout2

iTrader: (9)

Not to discredit the need or not need for gauges on an N/A build discussion, but there are a couple reasons I chose to buy gauges for my application. I value both form and function, and I have already invested alot into this build with top quality parts to get the most out of this motor. Nonetheless, gauges were part of my list that I wanted to include in this build from the beginning. I started this thread so I could get some input on which gauges would be more beneficial to me now that I've chosen to go this route. I didn't want anything that was not at least validating some sort of significant monitoring of the motor. Is it required? Probably not. Is it nice to have? Sure can be.

So with mind over matter, and a touch of the "cool" factor I chose to install gauges. I don't have the extra gauges from the factory like the 350z guys, as in oil temp and such. With my mod list below, could I justify not having anything other then a wideband? Absolutely! It really just boils down to personal preference at this point, and where you want to spend your money. Could I have gone with a more cost effective gauge other then Defi BF? Of course I could, but why not do it like I want it and go all out especially since I applied the same mentality to the motor. It's all relative to me when it came to form and function.

Everyone wants to go fast. Not everyone needs to look good while doing it. I on the other hand appreciate both.

I do run in Autocross events throughout the year as well as take her down the 1/8th and 1/4 mile often. I plan on doing some events at the VIR Road Course later on down the line, so these gauges do provide some functionality for me in those aspects and not just for show.

Here's my healthy mod list for anyone interested, and in all honesty I'd like to be the 1st ever N/A Maxima (5.5gen) to break 300whp (of course it's just a number). No hybrid, no swap, no stroker, or forced induction. Just the same VQ35DE block that came in the car......fully built of course. You guys are great inspirations to our Maxima community, and I'm just glad I can roll with the big boys and their toys soon.

Wiseco 11.0:1 CR Pistons (.020 over stock)
Eagle Rods w/ARP Rod Bolts
Brian Crower 264/264 Cams
VQ35HR Valvesprings and Retainers
5 Angle Serdi Valvejob
Ported and Polished Heads
Fully Blueprint and Balance
Polished and Balanced Crank Independently
Balance as Rotating Assembly to 10k RPMS
OEM Main Crank Bearings
ACL Race Rod Bearings
HR Headbolts
HR Headgaskets
Deatschwerks 380cc Injectors
Samco Hoses
UTEC w/Map Selector
TurboXS Tuner Wideband
Defi-Link Controller II
Defi BF White Imperial Water Temp Gauge
Defi BF White Imperial Oil Temp Gauge
Defi BF White Imperial Oil Pressure Gauge
Walboro 190lph Fuel Pump
Extended Rev Limiter to 8k+ RPM's
Lightweight Crank Pulley (Standard Size)
SPEC Stage II Clutch
Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel
NGK 1 Step Colder Plugs
3" MAF Housing
Ported Upper Intake Manifold
Port matched Upper and Lower Intake Manifold
NWP Manifold Spacers
Cattman Gen 3 Headers
Cattman Fastcat
Cattman 3" Catback Exhaust
350z Thermostat
Koyo Radiator
VQ35DE Revup Oil Pump
6th Gen Maxima 6-speed Transmission HLSD
4.133 Final Drive Gear Ratio

-Paramy

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

With a list like that 300 WHP should be attainable. Good luck!

deckdout2

iTrader: (9)

Thank you! I sure hope so. Dropping as much money into a pit like this, I can only pray for good results.

tuko316

iTrader: (6)

good luck with the build. whats the ETA?

johnwigs

if you are using HR bolts. did you use HR toque sequence... 105 degrees twice instead of 60... the bolt needs to be "elastised" (not sure how to spell it)... sounds like a good build what are you using for a front pipe? there is alot of power to gain from a good front pipe (merge pipe)

deckdout2

iTrader: (9)

I've been waiting on my Heads to get back for a full month now. The shop keeps delaying on me. Spoke with them yesterday and they're going to "try" to finish it up this weekend. They're hand porting it is what's taking them so long. The valvejob has been completed already, and the short block is assembled. As soon as the heads get back I give it 2 weeks to assemble it all, and a weekend to put it in the car. Road tune after that for air/fuel, and then dyno tune for the timing. I've been sitting on this since December so I'm anxious to get her back on the road.

Old motor pulled



Assembled shortblock

deckdout2

iTrader: (9)

I have not looked into that. I was going to go off the FSM for the torque sequence and use the same torque specs that is for the DE application when I bolt the heads to the block. Is this not accurate when using HR Headbolts with the DE block?

Front pipe as in y-pipe? Not sure I understand which part you're referring to. I have aftermarket headers and full catback, upgraded to a 3" exhaust from 2.5" from the same company. Very reputable with the best proven gains in the Maxima world.

johnwigs

HR head bolts are (heavier duty) I hate to use the term but. the reason head bolts are torque to yield is that the bolts need to be in the "elastic Zone" to compensate and stretch for when the heads and block go through a heat cycle... they expand at different rates. HR bolts need more "angle yielded" to be in the elastic Zone... HR bolts are great to use just giving you some brain food... Im a nissan tech and that is all I do engines and trannys... VQ timing chain... im the man