the_coupe's NA build cp manley bc
figured id start my build thread on here as well 
my 04 coupe is currently at 72k, smokes only during cold starts for the first few minutes until warmed up and uses maybe 1.5 qts in 1200 miles or so
so i got an OC 05 AT nonrev motor with around 15k miles from my buddy to build on.


pix of disassembly



got the timing covers all cleaned up, esp all the silicone that was in the grooves




cylinder walls didnt look bad minus some of the rust/buildup from the motor sitting in a shop for so long


bag it and tag it

and now time for the goodies

my 04 coupe is currently at 72k, smokes only during cold starts for the first few minutes until warmed up and uses maybe 1.5 qts in 1200 miles or so
so i got an OC 05 AT nonrev motor with around 15k miles from my buddy to build on.


pix of disassembly



got the timing covers all cleaned up, esp all the silicone that was in the grooves




cylinder walls didnt look bad minus some of the rust/buildup from the motor sitting in a shop for so long


bag it and tag it


and now time for the goodies
Last edited by the_coupe; Apr 27, 2011 at 05:07 PM.
BC stage2 264 cams with BC springs and Ti retainers

CP 11:1 96mm pistons


Manley rods with ACL race bearings

rods and pistons installed


and the end result when a wire clip goes through your finger (under the nail) when installing them

OEM master gasket kit

OEM HR head bolts, main bolts, thermostat and revup oil pump

CP 11:1 96mm pistons


Manley rods with ACL race bearings

rods and pistons installed


and the end result when a wire clip goes through your finger (under the nail) when installing them

OEM master gasket kit

OEM HR head bolts, main bolts, thermostat and revup oil pump
had the block machined for the HR headgasket mod and bored out to fit the 96mm pistons with .003" p2w clearance.




and yes, i have an external balance of the complete bottom end (from the stillen pulley to the comp clutch flywheel)
ACL main bearings lubed up and ready for the crank


the ACL thrust washers i got were packaged wrong (4 of the block side washers. apparently a common thing) so i ordered some OEM ones to put in. the ACL washers i got


and the oem ones...correct ones

got the mains all torqued down to spec. rods too.

with the pistons installed


baffle plate, revup oil pump and strainer all bolted down


rear main seal installed

oil filter stud for an 01 I30 to delete the factory oil cooler (warmer)




and yes, i have an external balance of the complete bottom end (from the stillen pulley to the comp clutch flywheel)
ACL main bearings lubed up and ready for the crank


the ACL thrust washers i got were packaged wrong (4 of the block side washers. apparently a common thing) so i ordered some OEM ones to put in. the ACL washers i got


and the oem ones...correct ones

got the mains all torqued down to spec. rods too.

with the pistons installed



baffle plate, revup oil pump and strainer all bolted down


rear main seal installed

oil filter stud for an 01 I30 to delete the factory oil cooler (warmer)
painted the valve covers up 


and painted the timing covers in cast aluminum

qx4 coolant bypass setup




AEM uego twin channel kit

the beginning of port work (gasket matched)

MR long tube headers


and painted the timing covers in cast aluminum

qx4 coolant bypass setup




AEM uego twin channel kit

the beginning of port work (gasket matched)

MR long tube headers
stock valves. BC cams, springs and retainers. will get an osiris tune once its together and a few hundred miles later. definitely bringin the rev limit up but we will see what the powerband shows on the dyno....ill cut it off soon after the power starts dropping off. and my buddy is doin all the port work. gasket matched the heads. intake side is obviously needing to be opened up. exhaust side is fine so itll just get smoothed out. then the intake manifold will be port matched then the lower plenum along with some other tinkering. and i already have the inside of the upper plenum smoothed out, just gotta do the throttle body inlet and elbow area.
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Nah. I'm predicting for you. Although I hope I'm being conservative w/ you having an AT and I've not seen higher numbers on all but a few NA builds.
Mine are ~310whp/280wtq on a revup motor.
Latest numbers here:
https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/4...z-revup-7.html
Mine are ~310whp/280wtq on a revup motor.
Latest numbers here:
https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/4...z-revup-7.html
my build and kacz07's build were my main topic for discussion today lol. as i was just thinking of finishing mine up....im hoping my valve clearances will be ok with the stock valves and bc cams/springs/retainers AND how much clearance between the piston and valve. CP said there were no clearance issues but does anyone know roughly how much space is between the 11:1 pistons and valves with bc 264s??
and i took a few pix of her when i was headin home from work.....got her washed up





and i took a few pix of her when i was headin home from work.....got her washed up






Last edited by the_coupe; Apr 29, 2011 at 05:26 PM. Reason: moar
Great thread. <3 diy more then anything. Keep up the good work. Before I saw your sig I was going to ask how much experience do you have lol.
Edit: What are MR headers? Meagan type?
Edit: What are MR headers? Meagan type?
Last edited by 0jiggy0; May 9, 2011 at 02:46 AM.
Nice build!
EDIT: NVM searched again and found it!
one question tho, i searched on deleting the factory oil "warmer" but didnt find any info on it. Im thinking of removing it on the swap im doing but just not sure.
What i found on it was its there to actually warm the oil up for short trips, and then once the motor and oil is fully warmed up it just stays constant.
Did you block off the lines that come from the block to the cooler? or did you just hook those lines together?
Id like to remove the stock cooler, and install a real oil cooler.
sry for the hijack!
EDIT: NVM searched again and found it!
one question tho, i searched on deleting the factory oil "warmer" but didnt find any info on it. Im thinking of removing it on the swap im doing but just not sure.
What i found on it was its there to actually warm the oil up for short trips, and then once the motor and oil is fully warmed up it just stays constant.
Did you block off the lines that come from the block to the cooler? or did you just hook those lines together?
Id like to remove the stock cooler, and install a real oil cooler.
sry for the hijack!
Last edited by SurraTT; May 9, 2011 at 02:09 PM.









