Summer Engine Build opinions
06-28-2012, 08:21 AM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Summer Engine Build opinions
Hi everybody. To begin with i wanted to make it clear that I have done countless hours of research by both calling JWT, Z1, CZP and of course reading alot of very helpful threads. I also wanted to note that i am a college student. (architecture major to be specific) The reason i mention this is so everyone is aware of my budget issues and at times even time issues.
On with the build. I have a 2005 350z NON-Revup
I currently have the HKS hi power exhaust and a JWT pop charger.
During the summer i thought it was the perfect time to tackle the build i wanna make.
To start off, i already have the motordyne 5/16 iso plenum spacer and ART pipes sitting in my house ready for install.
My question then comes if I should get the osiris uprev tune now after installing these parts or just wait till i complete my build? completion of build would end with cams, headers, valve springs, and rev oil pump
To be specific I have read numerous times, be patient and build your car the right way. So my parts are as follows...
Crawford headers
JWT C2 cams
JWT Heavy duty valve springs *debating on switching to Ferrea valve springs
Rev-up oil pump
My intention with this build is to of course rev higher since I get tired of the crappy 6500 rev limit, and prep my car to a potential Vortech or HKS super charger. (only reason i opted out of TT, is because my car just hit 90,000 miles, it is my DD, and of course want power reliably.I have never gone to a track, but i do go to the drag strip every so often, and would like to go alot more frequently with these mods on!
I also plan on adding either a Mishimoto or Koyo radiator along the road. If there is anything you guys think that would be helpful in my build, PLease let me know
Questions:
1. Should i wait to tune everything together?
2. JWT valve springs or Ferrea valve springs? ( wud ferrea be overkill?)
3. anything else i need in order to rev to 7200-7800rpm safely.
( i do understand that 7800 rpm is the max with the C2 cams )
Thank you for reading. comments, questions, and opinions are welcomed.
On with the build. I have a 2005 350z NON-Revup
I currently have the HKS hi power exhaust and a JWT pop charger.
During the summer i thought it was the perfect time to tackle the build i wanna make.
To start off, i already have the motordyne 5/16 iso plenum spacer and ART pipes sitting in my house ready for install.
My question then comes if I should get the osiris uprev tune now after installing these parts or just wait till i complete my build? completion of build would end with cams, headers, valve springs, and rev oil pump
To be specific I have read numerous times, be patient and build your car the right way. So my parts are as follows...
Crawford headers
JWT C2 cams
JWT Heavy duty valve springs *debating on switching to Ferrea valve springs
Rev-up oil pump
My intention with this build is to of course rev higher since I get tired of the crappy 6500 rev limit, and prep my car to a potential Vortech or HKS super charger. (only reason i opted out of TT, is because my car just hit 90,000 miles, it is my DD, and of course want power reliably.I have never gone to a track, but i do go to the drag strip every so often, and would like to go alot more frequently with these mods on!
I also plan on adding either a Mishimoto or Koyo radiator along the road. If there is anything you guys think that would be helpful in my build, PLease let me know
Questions:
1. Should i wait to tune everything together?
2. JWT valve springs or Ferrea valve springs? ( wud ferrea be overkill?)
3. anything else i need in order to rev to 7200-7800rpm safely.
( i do understand that 7800 rpm is the max with the C2 cams )
Thank you for reading. comments, questions, and opinions are welcomed.
06-28-2012, 08:30 AM
#2
Administrator
iTrader: (25)
Moved...
06-28-2012, 10:24 AM
#3
350Z-holic
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Scottsdale/coyote drophouse
Posts: 8,245
Received 414 Likes
on
237 Posts
youve posted no goals to your build other than having a higher redline.. which the car makes little power after btw..
so back to my ( our) question.. what are you trying to do and why?
Seeing as thou you ahve to sit on a dyno for the osiris tune, yes as always, do your tune last, or at least be preared to tune twice if not. But why spend the money..
leads right back to question one.. why ARE you spending the money>
so back to my ( our) question.. what are you trying to do and why?
Seeing as thou you ahve to sit on a dyno for the osiris tune, yes as always, do your tune last, or at least be preared to tune twice if not. But why spend the money..
leads right back to question one.. why ARE you spending the money>
06-28-2012, 12:16 PM
#4
New Member
Thread Starter
Sry if it was a bit unclear. I am trying to build the car into a more drag application, which is why clutch and flwheel, and 4.08 gears and LSD are next on my list. But I would like to track my car as well, but it wouldnt be necessarily built for that purpose. I would still like it to be driveable and of course still faster than it is now. The reason i mentioned the Redline, is because the 4.08 gears would actually hurt you on the quarter mile rather than help, unless you increase your rev limit.
In regards to the tune, just to make it clear. Would it be required to tune it after the install of the motordyne plenum spacer and art pipes, or should i just wait till headers and cams are installed ? The reason i ask is because i just asked a local shop, and they said i would get 10mpg, and it would run very rough. But I asked a parts distributor and they said i wouldnt need it since they are simple bolt ons. Im assuming the shops opinion is a bit subjective. Besides from the obvious power gains, would the tune be necessary now or should i wait for the more serious mods and then tune it.
In regards to the tune, just to make it clear. Would it be required to tune it after the install of the motordyne plenum spacer and art pipes, or should i just wait till headers and cams are installed ? The reason i ask is because i just asked a local shop, and they said i would get 10mpg, and it would run very rough. But I asked a parts distributor and they said i wouldnt need it since they are simple bolt ons. Im assuming the shops opinion is a bit subjective. Besides from the obvious power gains, would the tune be necessary now or should i wait for the more serious mods and then tune it.
you've posted no goals to your build other than having a higher redline.. which the car makes little power after btw..
so back to my ( our) question.. what are you trying to do and why?
Seeing as thou you ahve to sit on a dyno for the osiris tune, yes as always, do your tune last, or at least be preared to tune twice if not. But why spend the money..
leads right back to question one.. why ARE you spending the money>
so back to my ( our) question.. what are you trying to do and why?
Seeing as thou you ahve to sit on a dyno for the osiris tune, yes as always, do your tune last, or at least be preared to tune twice if not. But why spend the money..
leads right back to question one.. why ARE you spending the money>
06-29-2012, 05:29 AM
#5
You would be wasting your time completely building a N/A vq35 for drag racing.
Seriously.
Even with itb's you're not going to make more than 370 ish at the wheels on a HIGH reading dyno.
If you want N/A power, get long tubes, cams (which will cost ya to install, they are a *****), a little water meth kit for a more aggressive tune, and spend the money you would building the block on an ITB setup (you'll need to get creative to make the water meth kit work with itb's).
I'm not sure if you could get away with revving that high without an upgraded crank girdle, but you will definitely want an upgraded oil pump, and that's going to require a full tear down. And a fluid damper wouldn't be a bad idea when you start getting close to 8,000rpm.
My engine's built for revving but I'm going turbo. (dynosty stage 1+cnc girlde, arp hardware everywhere, fluid damper, bc stage 3+springs, in total that was pretty expensive... N/A probably would be choked for my hopeful 8.5k rev limit)
Seriously.
Even with itb's you're not going to make more than 370 ish at the wheels on a HIGH reading dyno.
If you want N/A power, get long tubes, cams (which will cost ya to install, they are a *****), a little water meth kit for a more aggressive tune, and spend the money you would building the block on an ITB setup (you'll need to get creative to make the water meth kit work with itb's).
I'm not sure if you could get away with revving that high without an upgraded crank girdle, but you will definitely want an upgraded oil pump, and that's going to require a full tear down. And a fluid damper wouldn't be a bad idea when you start getting close to 8,000rpm.
My engine's built for revving but I'm going turbo. (dynosty stage 1+cnc girlde, arp hardware everywhere, fluid damper, bc stage 3+springs, in total that was pretty expensive... N/A probably would be choked for my hopeful 8.5k rev limit)
Last edited by Resmarted; 06-29-2012 at 05:35 AM.
06-29-2012, 02:15 PM
#6
Lots of info in this forum...
First, wait till you have all your parts before installing. Tune once your build is complete. Do everything all at once.
Why are you choosing the C2 cams? There are more aggressive options.
You will need JWT springs. I have a Ferrea valvetrain with an 8K redline. This costs more money. Not necessary. I don't think you need a crank girdle upgrade, either.
Get a fluidampr or ati crank pulley to dampen vibrations.
Crawfords seem to work. Or you can get long tube headers. They help you make power to redline. PPEs look to be the most available option.
4.08 gears help with getting aggressive top end cams. I have low end weakness that has since been resolved with more torque available at lower mph. Good mod with a proper LSD.
Get a larger intake/MAF housing. Something at least 3". You can do 3.5". Look at VMPtuning website. This will require tuning. The alternative to this is ITBs, but they require a more expensive tuner program.
First, wait till you have all your parts before installing. Tune once your build is complete. Do everything all at once.
Why are you choosing the C2 cams? There are more aggressive options.
You will need JWT springs. I have a Ferrea valvetrain with an 8K redline. This costs more money. Not necessary. I don't think you need a crank girdle upgrade, either.
Get a fluidampr or ati crank pulley to dampen vibrations.
Crawfords seem to work. Or you can get long tube headers. They help you make power to redline. PPEs look to be the most available option.
4.08 gears help with getting aggressive top end cams. I have low end weakness that has since been resolved with more torque available at lower mph. Good mod with a proper LSD.
Get a larger intake/MAF housing. Something at least 3". You can do 3.5". Look at VMPtuning website. This will require tuning. The alternative to this is ITBs, but they require a more expensive tuner program.
Last edited by kacz07; 06-29-2012 at 02:16 PM.
Trending Topics
06-30-2012, 07:21 PM
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
You would be wasting your time completely building a N/A vq35 for drag racing.
Seriously.
Even with itb's you're not going to make more than 370 ish at the wheels on a HIGH reading dyno.
If you want N/A power, get long tubes, cams (which will cost ya to install, they are a *****), a little water meth kit for a more aggressive tune, and spend the money you would building the block on an ITB setup (you'll need to get creative to make the water meth kit work with itb's).
I'm not sure if you could get away with revving that high without an upgraded crank girdle, but you will definitely want an upgraded oil pump, and that's going to require a full tear down. And a fluid damper wouldn't be a bad idea when you start getting close to 8,000rpm.
My engine's built for revving but I'm going turbo. (dynosty stage 1+cnc girlde, arp hardware everywhere, fluid damper, bc stage 3+springs, in total that was pretty expensive... N/A probably would be choked for my hopeful 8.5k rev limit)
Seriously.
Even with itb's you're not going to make more than 370 ish at the wheels on a HIGH reading dyno.
If you want N/A power, get long tubes, cams (which will cost ya to install, they are a *****), a little water meth kit for a more aggressive tune, and spend the money you would building the block on an ITB setup (you'll need to get creative to make the water meth kit work with itb's).
I'm not sure if you could get away with revving that high without an upgraded crank girdle, but you will definitely want an upgraded oil pump, and that's going to require a full tear down. And a fluid damper wouldn't be a bad idea when you start getting close to 8,000rpm.
My engine's built for revving but I'm going turbo. (dynosty stage 1+cnc girlde, arp hardware everywhere, fluid damper, bc stage 3+springs, in total that was pretty expensive... N/A probably would be choked for my hopeful 8.5k rev limit)
Even though doing pistons,rods, and building lower plenum is really helpful when going SC or TT, it is not always neccesary if you dont tune at high psi.
My eventual plan is to build up to a SC(Vortech or HKS) even though the Greddy TT has always been my highest goal. I will not be doing an all out NA, which eliminates ITBs, stroker kits, and rebuilding the engine completely (pistons,rods, heads,etc..)
I am trying to get a decent NA build (powerful bolt-ons + cams, upgraded valve train) in order to prep my car for SC, since that seems to be the most economical, and smart choice to go with.
I eliminated the longtubes because of the sound issue, yes they sound incredibly good, and provide massive gains, but this is my daily driver
Crawfords seem to have high if not best gains without going longtube race headers (ex: SG motorsport)
anyways, thanks for the helpful info. And good luck going boost, hope all goes well.
06-30-2012, 08:35 PM
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
Lots of info in this forum...
First, wait till you have all your parts before installing. Tune once your build is complete. Do everything all at once.
Why are you choosing the C2 cams? There are more aggressive options.
You will need JWT springs. I have a Ferrea valvetrain with an 8K redline. This costs more money. Not necessary. I don't think you need a crank girdle upgrade, either.
Get a fluidampr or ati crank pulley to dampen vibrations.
Crawfords seem to work. Or you can get long tube headers. They help you make power to redline. PPEs look to be the most available option.
4.08 gears help with getting aggressive top end cams. I have low end weakness that has since been resolved with more torque available at lower mph. Good mod with a proper LSD.
Get a larger intake/MAF housing. Something at least 3". You can do 3.5". Look at VMPtuning website. This will require tuning. The alternative to this is ITBs, but they require a more expensive tuner program.
First, wait till you have all your parts before installing. Tune once your build is complete. Do everything all at once.
Why are you choosing the C2 cams? There are more aggressive options.
You will need JWT springs. I have a Ferrea valvetrain with an 8K redline. This costs more money. Not necessary. I don't think you need a crank girdle upgrade, either.
Get a fluidampr or ati crank pulley to dampen vibrations.
Crawfords seem to work. Or you can get long tube headers. They help you make power to redline. PPEs look to be the most available option.
4.08 gears help with getting aggressive top end cams. I have low end weakness that has since been resolved with more torque available at lower mph. Good mod with a proper LSD.
Get a larger intake/MAF housing. Something at least 3". You can do 3.5". Look at VMPtuning website. This will require tuning. The alternative to this is ITBs, but they require a more expensive tuner program.
The reason i chose the JWT C2 cams is because they are a good FI cam, yet provide better gains than the JWT S1 or S2 cams, or the tomei 264, or briancrower 264, or the nismo R tune cams.
I do realize there are far more aggressive cams such as the C8 or tomei 272, BC 272. I think going with C9, or the tomei 280s, or BC 280s would be a bit extreme.
I would like to go with the Ferrea valve train, which is a bit pricey, but well worth the peace of mind.
Im def getting the 4.08 gears, but i think that may hurt me if i go with a SC. Maybe someone can confirm this for me.
The 3" MAF housing and ATI crank pulley are great NA mods, but will have to be replaced if i go SC.
How much better is the ATI crank pulley over the UR light weight crank pulley. I have come across Adam's from Z1 NA build (very impressive and well thought out, love the OS Giken Clutch!) in which he reaches a whopping 320 whp! He uses the ATI crank pulley, which seems to be the best.
The reason i say IF, is not because i dont want to, its just that it may take me a while to save up for something like that since fall and spring semester is coming up, and i will only be working part time. Which is why i want a "mild NA build", which can be later transferred to a SC set up without discarding mods which have taken a good portion of money from me.
Thanks to all who have posted. This has been a huge help. Maybe some Super charged Z owners can chime in, and let me know what they did before and letting me know what they do or dont reccomend... Thanks again!
06-30-2012, 08:41 PM
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
To be honest i am kind of indecisive, so keeping it SC prep and not full blown out NA is trully the best thing for me.
Main reason people do NA or bolt ons is because it is alot of fun seeing ur car transform, and you dont have to save 10K for a TT kit, install, and tune...
But if anyone has the patience, and money, i seriously recommend you take this route (unless you are a die hard NA fan, or have alot of miles on your car)...there are truly many applications you can do with a TT car, Track,Drag, and street are all in your reach with the beautiful TT.
06-30-2012, 08:43 PM
#12
New Member
Thread Starter
07-01-2012, 04:10 AM
#13
What is your budget or cost guesstimate for the complete NA build?
I think you may be surprised by the costs associated with installing many of the components you are speaking of usings. Heads and cams require removing the oil, coolant, accessories, front and rear timing covers and new gaskets. Cams just don't drop in as direct replacements, they need buckets that act as shims and they come in differing thicknesses.
Headwork on the DE is basically a waste if you aren't using a high whp FI setup and even then the gains aren't huge for the $$$$ spent. NA is usually built to get more low end TQ, but you want to do cams that push your curve to the right and you will most likely not make power past 6500rpm anyway.
Basically, you are going to spend a bunch of money for nothing... period.
Save up a bit and get the SC right away and call it a day right there. It will be faster and more fun and put you close to 400whp on a DJ dyno.
Best of luck with your chosen path and I will look for all your NA parts in the classifieds in a year or so when your realize the car still gets beat by the same cars that are beating you now.
I think you may be surprised by the costs associated with installing many of the components you are speaking of usings. Heads and cams require removing the oil, coolant, accessories, front and rear timing covers and new gaskets. Cams just don't drop in as direct replacements, they need buckets that act as shims and they come in differing thicknesses.
Headwork on the DE is basically a waste if you aren't using a high whp FI setup and even then the gains aren't huge for the $$$$ spent. NA is usually built to get more low end TQ, but you want to do cams that push your curve to the right and you will most likely not make power past 6500rpm anyway.
Basically, you are going to spend a bunch of money for nothing... period.
Save up a bit and get the SC right away and call it a day right there. It will be faster and more fun and put you close to 400whp on a DJ dyno.
Best of luck with your chosen path and I will look for all your NA parts in the classifieds in a year or so when your realize the car still gets beat by the same cars that are beating you now.
07-01-2012, 04:32 AM
#14
Hate to break it to ya, but if you can't live with longtubes then you are not going to make as much power as you want.
For n/a power in this motor you need to make a lot of sacrifices and pay a lot of money. Not really worth it in the end. Unless you decide to go full race car, it will still be nearly the same speed. Even then, a tt z stock block would mop the floor with your car.
07-01-2012, 12:46 PM
#15
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Stockton
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yea i decided to install everything first, and then tune.
The reason i chose the JWT C2 cams is because they are a good FI cam, yet provide better gains than the JWT S1 or S2 cams, or the tomei 264, or briancrower 264, or the nismo R tune cams.
as far as it being a good cam it depends on your intent for the engine; just because it shows most WHP does not mean its a good cam for your build choice....read into this it makes all the difference
I do realize there are far more aggressive cams such as the C8 or tomei 272, BC 272. I think going with C9, or the tomei 280s, or BC 280s would be a bit extreme.
I would like to go with the Ferrea valve train, which is a bit pricey, but well worth the peace of mind.
The heads on these engines are pretty good as it is i wouldnt spend to much on heads. I dont have any personal experience with ferrea but you wont see much of a gain for that kind of price....unless your doin it just to say you have them; if not that then just stick with oem
Im def getting the 4.08 gears, but i think that may hurt me if i go with a SC. Maybe someone can confirm this for me.
again depends on your intent for the car. Depending on your cam choice you might HAVE to go with 4.08. Upping your rear end gear will help your car at the low end definitely wont help your highway driving too much (whether you have a SC or not; from my knowledge).
The 3" MAF housing and ATI crank pulley are great NA mods, but will have to be replaced if i go SC.
How much better is the ATI crank pulley over the UR light weight crank pulley. I have come across Adam's from Z1 NA build (very impressive and well thought out, love the OS Giken Clutch!) in which he reaches a whopping 320 whp! He uses the ATI crank pulley, which seems to be the best.
The gains from a pulley are made from being underdriven not weight. NA you could see some gains but when you are boosting you cant be underdriven because of engine damage. Stick with the ati either way.
The reason i say IF, is not because i dont want to, its just that it may take me a while to save up for something like that since fall and spring semester is coming up, and i will only be working part time. Which is why i want a "mild NA build", which can be later transferred to a SC set up without discarding mods which have taken a good portion of money from me.
Thanks to all who have posted. This has been a huge help. Maybe some Super charged Z owners can chime in, and let me know what they did before and letting me know what they do or dont reccomend... Thanks again!
If you are working part time you will not be able to save enough in the next 2-3 years to do a full engine build. Like suggested just do a vortech SC and call it a day. The reliability in building this engine is not there, there is no guarantee with time. Unless you are earning good money its not worth it.
The reason i chose the JWT C2 cams is because they are a good FI cam, yet provide better gains than the JWT S1 or S2 cams, or the tomei 264, or briancrower 264, or the nismo R tune cams.
as far as it being a good cam it depends on your intent for the engine; just because it shows most WHP does not mean its a good cam for your build choice....read into this it makes all the difference
I do realize there are far more aggressive cams such as the C8 or tomei 272, BC 272. I think going with C9, or the tomei 280s, or BC 280s would be a bit extreme.
I would like to go with the Ferrea valve train, which is a bit pricey, but well worth the peace of mind.
The heads on these engines are pretty good as it is i wouldnt spend to much on heads. I dont have any personal experience with ferrea but you wont see much of a gain for that kind of price....unless your doin it just to say you have them; if not that then just stick with oem
Im def getting the 4.08 gears, but i think that may hurt me if i go with a SC. Maybe someone can confirm this for me.
again depends on your intent for the car. Depending on your cam choice you might HAVE to go with 4.08. Upping your rear end gear will help your car at the low end definitely wont help your highway driving too much (whether you have a SC or not; from my knowledge).
The 3" MAF housing and ATI crank pulley are great NA mods, but will have to be replaced if i go SC.
How much better is the ATI crank pulley over the UR light weight crank pulley. I have come across Adam's from Z1 NA build (very impressive and well thought out, love the OS Giken Clutch!) in which he reaches a whopping 320 whp! He uses the ATI crank pulley, which seems to be the best.
The gains from a pulley are made from being underdriven not weight. NA you could see some gains but when you are boosting you cant be underdriven because of engine damage. Stick with the ati either way.
The reason i say IF, is not because i dont want to, its just that it may take me a while to save up for something like that since fall and spring semester is coming up, and i will only be working part time. Which is why i want a "mild NA build", which can be later transferred to a SC set up without discarding mods which have taken a good portion of money from me.
Thanks to all who have posted. This has been a huge help. Maybe some Super charged Z owners can chime in, and let me know what they did before and letting me know what they do or dont reccomend... Thanks again!
If you are working part time you will not be able to save enough in the next 2-3 years to do a full engine build. Like suggested just do a vortech SC and call it a day. The reliability in building this engine is not there, there is no guarantee with time. Unless you are earning good money its not worth it.
07-03-2012, 07:35 AM
#16
New Member
Thread Starter
What is your budget or cost guesstimate for the complete NA build?
I think you may be surprised by the costs associated with installing many of the components you are speaking of usings. Heads and cams require removing the oil, coolant, accessories, front and rear timing covers and new gaskets. Cams just don't drop in as direct replacements, they need buckets that act as shims and they come in differing thicknesses.
Headwork on the DE is basically a waste if you aren't using a high whp FI setup and even then the gains aren't huge for the $$$$ spent. NA is usually built to get more low end TQ, but you want to do cams that push your curve to the right and you will most likely not make power past 6500rpm anyway.
Basically, you are going to spend a bunch of money for nothing... period.
Save up a bit and get the SC right a
way and call it a day right there. It will be faster and more fun and put you close to 400whp on a DJ dyno.
Best of luck with your chosen path and I will look for all your NA parts in the classifieds in a year or so when your realize the car still gets beat by the same cars that are beating you now.
I think you may be surprised by the costs associated with installing many of the components you are speaking of usings. Heads and cams require removing the oil, coolant, accessories, front and rear timing covers and new gaskets. Cams just don't drop in as direct replacements, they need buckets that act as shims and they come in differing thicknesses.
Headwork on the DE is basically a waste if you aren't using a high whp FI setup and even then the gains aren't huge for the $$$$ spent. NA is usually built to get more low end TQ, but you want to do cams that push your curve to the right and you will most likely not make power past 6500rpm anyway.
Basically, you are going to spend a bunch of money for nothing... period.
Save up a bit and get the SC right a
way and call it a day right there. It will be faster and more fun and put you close to 400whp on a DJ dyno.
Best of luck with your chosen path and I will look for all your NA parts in the classifieds in a year or so when your realize the car still gets beat by the same cars that are beating you now.
JWT C2cams - 1080$
JWT Heavy Duty Valve springs - 230$
Crawford Headers - 1050$
Rev-up oil Pump - 180$
NGK spark plugs - 45$
Install of Cams 800$
Install of Headers 400$ (taking into consideration that you have to pull the engine out because of equal length Crawford Headers)
This is a total of about 2600$
when combined with the plenum spacer and art pipes from motordyne im not sure if i agree with you, when u say i get nothing... A stock Z usually puts down anywhere around 220-230whp depending on temp levels. With the listed mods i should atleast get to 270-280 whp. and it should feel alot different than a regular Z. Now i agree when you say about pushing the curve to the right, thats what agressive cams do.. which is why i want to get 4.08 gears shortly after these mods.
I do agree with you on that i would get more gains with a SC. I mean if i go with the Vortech SC, i could still get more power with cams and headers.
Thanks for the suggestion. Its very much appreciated.
07-03-2012, 07:47 AM
#17
New Member
Thread Starter
NA is cool but not if you are straight line oriented. You'd just be wasting your time.
Hate to break it to ya, but if you can't live with longtubes then you are not going to make as much power as you want.
For n/a power in this motor you need to make a lot of sacrifices and pay a lot of money. Not really worth it in the end. Unless you decide to go full race car, it will still be nearly the same speed. Even then, a tt z stock block would mop the floor with your car.
Hate to break it to ya, but if you can't live with longtubes then you are not going to make as much power as you want.
For n/a power in this motor you need to make a lot of sacrifices and pay a lot of money. Not really worth it in the end. Unless you decide to go full race car, it will still be nearly the same speed. Even then, a tt z stock block would mop the floor with your car.
I agree with you in terms of straight line orientation, the best way would be to SC, or if i could afford a Greddy TT...
07-03-2012, 07:58 AM
#18
New Member
Thread Starter
07-03-2012, 08:59 AM
#19
Long tubes are too loud? Huh? I am pretty sure there is literately no difference in how loud they are between shorty headers with cat delete pipes vs long tubes, I have done both and I will say installing long tubes is easier, cheaper and I think made better power. If you are really concerned about loud, get a motordyne xyz with a cat and a single exhaust with a quality resonator and muffler, I had a HKS knock off exhaust that I blew the glass out of and it was a touch louder than I would have liked, I think you need to slow way down and drive the car and take it slow, you seem pretty uniformed and making rash decisions. I spent around $9k on my NA build, and I did almost all of the work myself minus tuning and machine work, and I only gained 30hp for $9k
Last edited by Classy; 07-03-2012 at 09:00 AM.
07-03-2012, 11:34 AM
#20
If you wanted to make full power and keep them quiet just do what motordyne did for those art pipes...
Weld on a pipe right after the headers of the same diameter at a 90* angle to the exhaust.
It creates a Helmholtz Resonator. You can change the length and tune for the resonant frequency that is annoying you/making you drone. Very easy to do, and much cheaper than art's and probably will make more power with the full long tubes.
Hell if you really want to do it on the cheap and get an awesome setup, do that, get some megan long tubes, have someone cut off the old collector, and weld on a burns collector, downstream of that have them weld the two resonators, and y it together. Will be cheaper than the headers you want+the art pipes, sound more unique and I can almost guarantee you more power.
Google Helmholtz resonator. It's a little bit of reading, and a bit of simple physics/calculations, but it will let you say that you designed your exhaust.
Weld on a pipe right after the headers of the same diameter at a 90* angle to the exhaust.
It creates a Helmholtz Resonator. You can change the length and tune for the resonant frequency that is annoying you/making you drone. Very easy to do, and much cheaper than art's and probably will make more power with the full long tubes.
Hell if you really want to do it on the cheap and get an awesome setup, do that, get some megan long tubes, have someone cut off the old collector, and weld on a burns collector, downstream of that have them weld the two resonators, and y it together. Will be cheaper than the headers you want+the art pipes, sound more unique and I can almost guarantee you more power.
Google Helmholtz resonator. It's a little bit of reading, and a bit of simple physics/calculations, but it will let you say that you designed your exhaust.