You have researched this for long tubes? Wouldn't r/d have to go into this? I can't imagine just slapping a side branch res on there is going to produce the same effect? Wouldn't proper geometry piping size and other factors apply?

 

Are you too young to remember/know the movie Amityville Horror?

GET OUT!

In case you are unfamiliar:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Amityville_Horror


Take it from someone that has done this.


DON'T. Sell the parts, get an LS1.

I spent over 11k and got less than 100hp/tq.

The car feels great but the hassle and money were too much.

 

I don't even want to dignify that question with an answer.
Search. There are calcuators out there you can use to roughly estimate what length based on your estimated egt, target frequency, and pipe diameter.
Helmholtz resonators can be made in all different ways, and have been around for a while. They don't hurt flow. Many people have used them HKS exhaust uses them, art pipes, shockwave uses them, many systems use them.

Besides that having worked with several cheap longtubes, the only issue with them is the collector. Put a well made collector on them and you'll make even more power. Most of them are mandrel bent to boot. The idea that allows longtubes to make power is simply more time before the exhaust pulses intersect. This actually can increase exhaust gas velocities purely by giving more time before the streams tumble (intersect at the collector). At high rpm's where you have shorter more rapid exhaust pulses (pulse length is inversely proportional to rpm) you really notice this effect. Equal length headers are known for making the most power because they keep the pulses converging in direct relation/timing to firing order giving pulses a time window to move through with out intersecting each other.

Now if we want to get into the debate on shorty vs long tube we can, but ultimately in the z's you aren't going to see too much gains or losses.
If you want NA power, you're going to need good high rpm scavenging. That can be done with fatter diameter short tube headers (i don't know of anyone who makes those) or long tubes. Equal length provides a performance gain regardless of what length or diameter you work with.

Having dealt with supra guys... and coming on here sometimes I get so dissapointed by the general lack of knowledge on stuff. Lol. Buddies building a dry sump 2j with -20 radiator lines... vmount setup, probably compound turbo, for fun out of his garage.
On here we have people unable to fathom you can make a better exhaust system than you can buy.

*walks off rambling*

PS
OP listen to people that have done it before you:

 

^ I think you missed my point.. I don't claim to know anything regarding the topic, but based on threads from Tony it's not a simple science..

 

LOL, no im not too young to remember amityville horror.

I have seen you on the forums before somewhere along my countless hours of research, and really admire your build of the stroker and full bolt-ons.
Many people keep telling me that NA isnt really worth it unless you fully build it, and even then after you see the money u spent , u might as well have gone TT.

Getting an LS1 seems a little extreme, since it prob costs more than jus SC, which gives me on average around 100whp.

Due to the fact that i have pretty high miles, and being able to use osirus (which is cheaper than a haltech) i would like to say that a Vortech is my best option.

Do you think you can give me a ballpark estimate of how much an LS1 would with install included?

 

I have not done an LS1 so am no expert but I think about 7k is what I have seen and you start at 350hp/tq and the sky is the limit if you throw money at it.

I am under 350 in both (347 tq) and have much more into it. If I knew then what I know now I'd never have considered the stroker.

 

I am going to be alittle more realistic about a ls swap and say $10k+ BUT there is so much room to grow with that engine and swapping from a ls1 to ls3 is not that big of a deal down the line, people with swapped ls motors with a cam, the right heads and some time on the dyno are right around 400 hp/tq, and that is on a ls1

As for the supercharger, sure you can buy one for $4-5k, but if you got a tuner kit, a 255 walbro, 600cc injectors and an Uprev tune, you will be in the high 300's and if you are ballsy 400+ with the right pulley and mods, but that will push it closer to $6k+

Whatever you do, think about it and make an informed decision

 

Oh.

Well coming up with the idea isn't simple (back when the resonator was invented). It's a basic application of constructive and destructive waves. Simple physics really. It messes purely with the sound waves, does nothing to flow. The chamber creates a natural resonant frequency that bounces back at 180* to the sound waves moving through the pipe. Its very clever really. You can target a problem freq (I'd assume around 300hz, but simple analysis of an exhaust sound clip with a frequency analyzer would show a "shelf" or low spot where they tuned their chambers).
I'm sure they tuned theirs to get every last bit of power out, but the amount you might loose doing your own is probably less than 1-3hp. Especially if you placed them down stream a bit.

Their chambers are a bit nicer, but make them more complex to tune; they have a small diameter 90* bend into a larger dome ended cylinder, but in the end it still will do nearly the same as a piece of exhaust on a 90* to your pipes. In fact a lot of helmholtz resonators (at least the ones I studied in school) come in teardrop shapes.
Pretty cool stuff.
Complex? No, not now that it's been debunked. It's just a marketing scheme. That being said, motordyne's product is top shelf imho.

 

A few engines on this very site have popped with high mileage and FI

I'd say ls1 is pretty extreme, but in general it seems they only recommend that if you must stay n/a.

A big idea that people over look in a build is that it might cost xxx to do, but if you want it done quickly, and CORRECTLY you should always at least add half, depending on how thorough you are as a builder.

It's amazing how quickly on a build 5k turns into 15k.

 

Ya, I am going to say, if you plan to pay $5k, plan at least double, pretty much the rule of the 350z is to take your budget and double it and that is how much it should hopefully cost

 

This is true. Builds start off small, but when you add things such as an upgraded clutch and flywheel (to support your gains), and lsd + gears, or just small stuff like gauges. It can turn out to be alot more than what you expected. This is why I always take everything into consideration, whether it be labor (for install), tune, or simply the shipping of parts, It is extremely important to plan out your build. But i have heard it so many times. If you are going to do something, do it right and save yourself the regret and money. Whether it being tackling one mod at a time, or jus following through your build, research and know your options.

Resmarted, I currently have 92,xxx miles do u think a SC will be too much for my engine? I thought most of the TT guys were the ones having the issue of blowing their motors

 

Thanks for the realistic approach of the LS1 swap. I kinda assumed it was around what a TT setup would cost me. To be honest with everyone, even with a TT (assuming i could afford one) I wouldnt want to push anything past 500whp, prob not even anything above 450. The reason is again for reliability purposes and the daily driver issue. I have already dedicated a decent amount of money and time towards my car and dont have a problem putting more into simply because I get great joy from seeing my car transform, and the performance it gives back. But, i do want to make sure the car lasts me atleast till the end of college... LOL

That being said I have reduced my options to the Vortech SC and cams and headers as being the furthest I would prob go. Dont see the reason of going LS1(unless i wasnted an all out NA and more options to grow) if it would cost me as much as a TT.

Any opinions of which i should do first Cams+Headers or Vortech SC ?

 

Do a compression test and go from there. SC's are more forgiving on the internals but a crappy tune can cause any engine to blow.

 

Ugh, modifying a 350z that is a DD, I hope you have friends that can give you rides

 

STOP- Step back from the keyboard and read a little.

Want NA power? Well, it's simple. Air flow and fuel.

Big cams, big airflow and enough RPM and you'll make good power, though if it were me, I'd be focusing on that crap Nissan calls an intake manifold.

Those exhaust manifolds are rubbish, and I've never seen a dyno proven gains with them, and talk to an engine builder, or JWT about your cam/valvetrain choices. My experience with them has always been positive, and I have no doubt they make the BEST cams for the VQ platform.

ATI damper is a must, and the most important factor is the tune, which I didn't see you mention.

Done right (and not being a stubborn like some people on this forum whose name rhyme with "E30cabrio" ops.) you will be over the 300whp, and be ready for a supercharger, though if you continue on the path your on, you'll just end up spending a lot of extra money.

 

Listen to this man.