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Kiugarage, i only have the 370 crank and rods. Still using the stock HR intake. Yeah car is an absolute animal on the streets. Stock HR oil pump can handle the 8k rpm redline but anything past that will require the nismo pump to be reliable
Last edited by venture210; 02-04-2017 at 05:25 PM.
Came across some stillen headers from a friend. Being that the engines displacement and cam duration have been increased, I'm willing to bet that there is power to be made over the stock HR headers.
Regarding the PBM angle kit, I found the thread engagement of the heim joint and tie rod in the threaded coupler to be at its limit of safety. I had about 4 heim joint threads and 7-8 tie rod threads in the coupler... one rough bump or collision with with something and I could see the tie rods ripping right out of the aluminum coupler. So I cam up with this. Cost me about 30 bucks to make instead of spending 60 on tie rod spacers, 80 on extended tie rods, or 100 on the PBM limit break couplers. I'm happy with the end result
Source of the problem is definitely the crank key. Bouncing off the rev limiter at 8k rpm was probably what did it haha going to replace the crankshaft, gear, and pulley. I also plan to do some checks to make sure no valves got bent. Once I get the motor back on the stand, I'll take a bunch of pics of the insides to see how the bottom end is holding up to abuse. Lets pray that amsoil is doing its job
Plenty of us race on our up opened engines for years with no problems
Maybe some oil clearances were not measured right?
It's a combination of the crank pulley not being able to be torqued properly (threads in crank were all stripped, broke a tap off in the crank, was forced to weld a stud in and use a nut) and bouncing off the rev limiter at 8k haha
That's got to hurt! What are you going to do differently this time around?
Side note: I had a 300 SRT8 once upon a time and it dropped a valve. That was an interesting experience...
I'm going to repair the bottom end with a stock crank, sprocket, pulley, bearings and drop the rev limiter back down to 7.6k
While I'm at it, planning to do JWT springs, bigger cams, and the stillen headers I posted a little while ago. Hoping for 350whp and 300wtq this time around
I'm going to repair the bottom end with a stock crank, sprocket, pulley, bearings and drop the rev limiter back down to 7.6k
While I'm at it, planning to do JWT springs, bigger cams, and the stillen headers I posted a little while ago. Hoping for 350whp and 300wtq this time around
Now, on to the rebuild. Might as well upgrade a few things while it's open right. Also traded the GReddy 264's for some Kelford 272's
Here's difference between the shim thickness of the stock HR and JWT spring seats.
JWT spring on the bottom, stock HR spring on top. I chose the heavy duty spring kit to accommodate for the higher lift... By the looks of things, I don't see why the stock HR springs can't handle 11mm of lift. JWT claims the stock springs will bend at high rpm with high lift cams. Can't help but wonder the limits of the stock HR springs though
Brand new oem bearings
Working condition vq37vhr crankshaft, polished and mic'd. Being that Nissan's parts are usually very precise and within spec, the journals ended up being nearly identical to previous crank. My clearances are still 0.0020 for the mains and 0.0022 for the rods.
Bottom end reassembled. New OEM vr38dett rod bolts used in place of the OEM HR rod bolts.
Blurry pic of the chain lol
Installing some helicoils in the flywheel too since 2 of the bolts stripped on the way out
Stillen headers wrapped to not burn my fuel line or steering collumn
Fully assembled and ready for drop in
Still have a few things left to do but I got all the important stuff in and turn it over after priming the oil pump. Fired up first try. Just need to do a slight retune to make sure the AFR's are in check
I wanted to get it back up and running as soon as possible while still being correct. I don't like letting the car sit for too long
Anyways, update time.
I got a code for both cams being over advanced... hmm lets hook up the laptop and see what cipher says. 128 degrees advanced for both exhaust cams... what!? It was idling and reving perfect. So I came to the conclusion that the timing sprockets on the rear of the exhaust cams is different between the DE and HR cams. These DE Kelford cams were running great in the last hr they were in. Only difference is that the other hr was tuned on ProEFI and only used one bank of timing sprockets for tuning.
So now, I'm most likely going to have to trade back my cams. Thinking about getting a really big intake cam now since it'll all be opened up again.
If it's only giving a code why not just run it as is and ignore the code?
I can tell the ECU is trying retard the exhaust cam as much as possible to compensate for the crazy advance angle that's being metered. If give the throttle a quick tap, it'll rev up perfectly fine but when the rpm drop back to around 1k, it sound a little rough for a second until the idle settles in and the ecu "gives up" on trying to correct the cam angle. I only really drive the car for drift events now and I don't want to be known as the guy that races when the engine isn't performing like it should
I can tell the ECU is trying retard the exhaust cam as much as possible to compensate for the crazy advance angle that's being metered. If give the throttle a quick tap, it'll rev up perfectly fine but when the rpm drop back to around 1k, it sound a little rough for a second until the idle settles in and the ecu "gives up" on trying to correct the cam angle. I only really drive the car for drift events now and I don't want to be known as the guy that races when the engine isn't performing like it should
So I pulled the kelford cams and swapped back my original GReddy 264's. While they were both out. I did a quick comparison to see if the timing tick marks were oriented differently from the DE to HR ex cams. I'll be damned. They are oriented exactly the same... So I guess I learned now that you can actually use DE cams in an HR if you install the dowel on the intake cam gear mounting surface. But now I have NO F****** clue why the ecu spit out the value of 128* advanced. The engine was built properly and of course timed correct since it was running correctly with no hicups. If only I could go back in time and reflash the ecu to see if that would have fixed it. Now I have all this work in front of me because the ECU lost it's marbles Oh well, knowledge is always worth the risk in my opinion. DE and HR cams being interchangeable is some valuable info
For the future, debating on boosting the engine the way it is or going all in for the all motor route.
Last edited by venture210; 02-28-2017 at 08:38 PM.
GodISmE, I went with 264's because I got them from a friend in a trade. Also, they allowed for a stock valve train to be used which was cost effective at the time. I wanted to upgrade because I had the engine apart and it was convenient since another friend had some 272's he was trying to sell. Since I ended up going back to the 264's, I'll probably just keep the engine the way it is and boost it later down the road
It's a pity you can't compare 264 to 272 ones. I'm just wondering what the difference is in terms of performance. I can't decide between 264 and 272 right now but from what I'm reading there is no point in going with 272 without the LTH. On the other hand, is it really worth going with 264 with shorties?
02-04-2017, 05:10 PM
