oh no not another NA build!
Well the build is already much further so here's an update.
After talking about clearances with alot of people and doing some heavy research on it we decided to change to main bearings again so that we have more clearance (from 0.0015 to 0.0025) because of the higher load and much higher RPM. - We have changed the main bearings
- We have cleaned most of the parts (such a fun job todo...)
- start assembling the engine.

We discovered that the cams need different timings then the Nissan manual describes. So we contact the manufacture on this issue and started over...
We need to find to absolute TDC as show in the image below and then time the cams by how much they push valves down @TDC. So tonight we will once again time the engine.
In the end it tooks us multiple days to set the cams correctly because we couldnt use the OEM markings for timing anymore and it was a hard job todo to have the cams in the correct position and then tighten the sprocket on it without moving the cams.

Also some new parts have arrived

Last week we finally had time to start finishing this project.
The old engine has been removed

We then swapped some components from the old engine to the new engine and also fitted those nice long tube headers.

The engine is now in the car and tonight we gonna fit the transmission back and start connecting all the wires.
After talking about clearances with alot of people and doing some heavy research on it we decided to change to main bearings again so that we have more clearance (from 0.0015 to 0.0025) because of the higher load and much higher RPM. - We have changed the main bearings
- We have cleaned most of the parts (such a fun job todo...)
- start assembling the engine.

We discovered that the cams need different timings then the Nissan manual describes. So we contact the manufacture on this issue and started over...
We need to find to absolute TDC as show in the image below and then time the cams by how much they push valves down @TDC. So tonight we will once again time the engine.
In the end it tooks us multiple days to set the cams correctly because we couldnt use the OEM markings for timing anymore and it was a hard job todo to have the cams in the correct position and then tighten the sprocket on it without moving the cams.

Also some new parts have arrived

Last week we finally had time to start finishing this project.
The old engine has been removed

We then swapped some components from the old engine to the new engine and also fitted those nice long tube headers.

The engine is now in the car and tonight we gonna fit the transmission back and start connecting all the wires.
I pushed my clearances on my rods into .003" to account for flex on the crank and heat expansion. Do you intend to run a thicker oil?
where are you placing your EGT sensors?
I can't imagine a 294 cam ... good lord!
what platform do you intend to tune with?
where are you placing your EGT sensors?
I can't imagine a 294 cam ... good lord!
what platform do you intend to tune with?
And yes im using a little ticker engine oil (10w40) so still not into the extreme.
If you look at this picture with the headers installed yeah can see where they are positioned (after the widebands). I know its not the best spot because closer to the engine would be better but i want to get it done :P
Well yeah the cams are gonna be a pain in the *** to drive. The first response i got from the manufacturer after contacting them was "Are you gonna use this car on the road?" Uhhh no?
I have a haltech elite laying around so im gonna use that for now and gonna tune the car myself so no trouble getting the car to a tuner
It is a nice pain in the butt, to get the transmission in with long tube headers. I'm thinking my next safety monitoring device will be EGT sensors placed exactly where you placed yours.
Did you have any problems with your header touching your starter?
Did you have any problems with your header touching your starter?
The problem i had with the sensors is that they are smaller then the plug you need to put them in so we had to manufacture a converter so the will fit in.
The starter is not in yet. Will do that tonight.
I truly know your expertise will be a great addition to this site with people wanting to modify and FI they're Zs. Seems you know just about all with this platform. Welcome to the forums and I look forward to seeing all the advice you give!
Still need to learn about how you US guys get so much more HP then us europeans. We even call it here American HP's because i see here people talking about bolt-ons only, getting 290 whp and that can't be right.
But small update.
After cursing alot the transmission is finally back into the car again so now i can finish up the rest of the wiring.
I run a 40wt oil too … I don't think 50wt would be too much for my setup.
I think EGT sensors need to be closer to the flange and in their own runner to get the most benefit. Essentially you're measuring the temperature of the exhaust gas to determine discrepancies between cylinders? Hotter EGT indicate a leaner mix?
great progress!
Like Calvin said - I too appreciate the build from another (European) mindset! So please keep us updated on your progress and the build overall!
I think EGT sensors need to be closer to the flange and in their own runner to get the most benefit. Essentially you're measuring the temperature of the exhaust gas to determine discrepancies between cylinders? Hotter EGT indicate a leaner mix?
great progress!
Like Calvin said - I too appreciate the build from another (European) mindset! So please keep us updated on your progress and the build overall!
I run a 40wt oil too … I don't think 50wt would be too much for my setup.
I think EGT sensors need to be closer to the flange and in their own runner to get the most benefit. Essentially you're measuring the temperature of the exhaust gas to determine discrepancies between cylinders? Hotter EGT indicate a leaner mix?
great progress!
Like Calvin said - I too appreciate the build from another (European) mindset! So please keep us updated on your progress and the build overall!
I think EGT sensors need to be closer to the flange and in their own runner to get the most benefit. Essentially you're measuring the temperature of the exhaust gas to determine discrepancies between cylinders? Hotter EGT indicate a leaner mix?
great progress!
Like Calvin said - I too appreciate the build from another (European) mindset! So please keep us updated on your progress and the build overall!
For the best egt results you need to have 6 of them as close as possible to the engine but that's gonna cost you. Will this would not be the best at least it gives you a ballpark.
You can use your egt to look for how lean your engine is running but it's much easier to read the widebands for that

i will use the egt to make sure my engine isn't running to hot because I'm gonna raise the rpm to 8000
Also I just wanted to play with them and these where cheap 😆
Gotta pay to play!
For the best egt results you need to have 6 of them as close as possible to the engine but that's gonna cost you. Will this would not be the best at least it gives you a ballpark.
You can use your egt to look for how lean your engine is running but it's much easier to read the widebands for that
You can use your egt to look for how lean your engine is running but it's much easier to read the widebands for that

There is benefit in running an EGT sensor to monitor your exhaust temps … I run one simply to ensure I'm not gonna melt anything. I originally put one in my Y-pipe (which was right before my aluminum exhaust) to monitor temps - if temps approached 1000-1100 degrees I knew I had to back-off a little bit. But there is no tuning benefit from a signal sensor where you placed it.
absolutely! No body will fault you there!
yeah - pretty common
Gotta pay to play!
How I understand it - Obviously the EGTs can only give you a temp output. You use the EGT sensors to modify each individual cylinders fuel trim to ensure each cylinder is pushing out exhaust of similar temps. If your EGT sensor is in a collector and/or near an O2 sensor they are essentially useless.
There is benefit in running an EGT sensor to monitor your exhaust temps … I run one simply to ensure I'm not gonna melt anything. I originally put one in my Y-pipe (which was right before my aluminum exhaust) to monitor temps - if temps approached 1000-1100 degrees I knew I had to back-off a little bit. But there is no tuning benefit from a signal sensor where you placed it.
absolutely! No body will fault you there!
Gotta pay to play!
How I understand it - Obviously the EGTs can only give you a temp output. You use the EGT sensors to modify each individual cylinders fuel trim to ensure each cylinder is pushing out exhaust of similar temps. If your EGT sensor is in a collector and/or near an O2 sensor they are essentially useless.
There is benefit in running an EGT sensor to monitor your exhaust temps … I run one simply to ensure I'm not gonna melt anything. I originally put one in my Y-pipe (which was right before my aluminum exhaust) to monitor temps - if temps approached 1000-1100 degrees I knew I had to back-off a little bit. But there is no tuning benefit from a signal sensor where you placed it.
absolutely! No body will fault you there!
Ik gonna use them just like you, to monitor the temps. The reason I got 2 was, because I needed something in the headers to seal them off, second they came in pairs 😉
And from my knowledge I don't see a problem to put them there or further back in the exhaust system.
Last edited by itsLeon; Jul 4, 2020 at 03:19 PM.
Yeah I thought it was common or at least expect people todo a little research but I have been told by multiple people that they run w60 because they have a turbo (on a stock engine).
Ik gonna use them just like you, to monitor the temps. The reason I got 2 was, because I needed something in the headers to seal them off, second they came in pairs 😉
And from my knowledge I don't see a problem to put them there or further back in the exhaust system.
Ik gonna use them just like you, to monitor the temps. The reason I got 2 was, because I needed something in the headers to seal them off, second they came in pairs 😉
And from my knowledge I don't see a problem to put them there or further back in the exhaust system.
I thought 50wt was overkill!!
I was thinking that even though you are only running two EGT sensors it may be a good thing to have an idea of how hot one bank is compared to the other bank...maybe something the O2 sensors cannot tell you ... so good stuff - smart!
But I still can compare them? The exhaust gasses aren't mixed together
I would figure widebands would be a better way to measure how lean or rich a bank is and EGTs would be better at fine tuning something like ITBs if you wanted to guarantee all cylinders were running at peak efficiency. I can say it's the first time I recall seeing an NA car with EGT sensors.
How often do you plan on revving to 8000?
How often do you plan on revving to 8000?
I would figure widebands would be a better way to measure how lean or rich a bank is and EGTs would be better at fine tuning something like ITBs if you wanted to guarantee all cylinders were running at peak efficiency. I can say it's the first time I recall seeing an NA car with EGT sensors.
How often do you plan on revving to 8000?
How often do you plan on revving to 8000?
Well I ordered 3 sets of egt's. One set for a track car, one set for a twin turbo car and one set for my car because I wanted the get more experience with them and to double check if the engine is running fine.
And I don't know how often I will revving to 8000. I think the same amount of times the HR boys rev to 7500 😆







