oh no not another NA build!
I have to comment on this post because its a great place to refresh my head. I had my engine built, but it was a cookie cutter from other similar builds. Almost got identical numbers. This is an adventure and i hope to see this beauty running strong. Best of luck leon. I am following this.
If you plan on revving past 7400, do not get a stock Rev-up pump. Guys at Z1 told me 7300 is as high as they recommend, anything past 7500 can lead to cavitation. That's a lot of money to no just upgrade to billet gears and be safe up to 8500 or so.
The problem that the DE has is that the engine is vibrating and that causes the DE pomp to malfunction. They fixed that issue in the Revup by making to pomp stronger. In the HR they fixed the fibrating problem so that pomp isn't that strong compared to the Revup.
Is it a risk to use a Revup pomp, yes but the engine is in the car and i don't wanna disconnect everything
So yeah best option will be to upgrade to Nismo oil pomp or even dry sump. But then again my car isn't a track car so my guess would be that this will hold or else we gonna start over again
If you wanted to take it a step further you could count the Nismo oil pump and even further Boundary Engineering and Sucker Punch Motorsports both make gearing for the VQ engine oil pumps.
I thinking spinning the engine past 6600 (on purpose) is unwise. The stresses on the components rise exponentially and you're asking for problems and there isnt much to gain past redline - sure, HP climbs but torque drops off.
I thinking spinning the engine past 6600 (on purpose) is unwise. The stresses on the components rise exponentially and you're asking for problems and there isnt much to gain past redline - sure, HP climbs but torque drops off.
He has big cams, the power should be there but that won't last without a billet gear. That's how Sasha broke one of his engines and why he went to a dry sump. These engines are not set up for revving high, they are set up for torque.
As far as my research shows the revup pomp is fine for 7500 rpm and the occasional 8000 rpm.
In the end of the day we will see and if it breaks i would start all over again
Up to you since you are doing the work and paying for it. Sasha is revving that high now, I'm referring to his previous cammed stock block, as far as I know that wasn't revved as high. If Z1 advise against it I'd say it's a valid argument. Keep us updated on how it holds up though, it'll be interesting to see.
Up to you since you are doing the work and paying for it. Sasha is revving that high now, I'm referring to his previous cammed stock block, as far as I know that wasn't revved as high. If Z1 advise against it I'd say it's a valid argument. Keep us updated on how it holds up though, it'll be interesting to see.
Photo's from the intake:
The intake now is a 3.5 inch steel intake (can't weld aluminium yet) wrapped in heat reflecting tape with underneath a heat shield.
The 'heat shield' near the filter is a bucket from a local construction market.


Still have some issues with heat soak so gonna change the steel pipe for some plastic pipe to see if that makes a big difference. The other solution will might be a ebay electric intake turbo thingy to give enough cold air to the intake (by blowing away the hot air surrounding it)
The intake now is a 3.5 inch steel intake (can't weld aluminium yet) wrapped in heat reflecting tape with underneath a heat shield.
The 'heat shield' near the filter is a bucket from a local construction market.


Still have some issues with heat soak so gonna change the steel pipe for some plastic pipe to see if that makes a big difference. The other solution will might be a ebay electric intake turbo thingy to give enough cold air to the intake (by blowing away the hot air surrounding it)
Photo's from the intake:
The intake now is a 3.5 inch steel intake (can't weld aluminium yet) wrapped in heat reflecting tape with underneath a heat shield.
The 'heat shield' near the filter is a bucket from a local construction market.

Still have some issues with heat soak so gonna change the steel pipe for some plastic pipe to see if that makes a big difference. The other solution will might be a ebay electric intake turbo thingy to give enough cold air to the intake (by blowing away the hot air surrounding it)
The intake now is a 3.5 inch steel intake (can't weld aluminium yet) wrapped in heat reflecting tape with underneath a heat shield.
The 'heat shield' near the filter is a bucket from a local construction market.

Still have some issues with heat soak so gonna change the steel pipe for some plastic pipe to see if that makes a big difference. The other solution will might be a ebay electric intake turbo thingy to give enough cold air to the intake (by blowing away the hot air surrounding it)
Last edited by bealljk; Sep 24, 2020 at 08:41 AM.
Yea - gold tape isnt a great insulator ... reflects heat well but it doesnt insulate. I used fiberglass wrap a few years back and it was better than nothing. I would look into fiberglass heat wrap and I would vent the hood. The engine bay gets hot (no kidding?) and you gotta evacuate that heat some how. Hood vents will do this.









