New (hopefully) Z owner
Hey all I am in the process of buying a 350z. I'm ditching my aging 96 240sx grocery getter/weekend track car for a newer, more reliable car. Originally I was looking to spend in the $15-16k range but after looking around I've decided to get a 07-08 model because of the HR engine (in the low $20k range).
I'm looking specifically at base models (enthusiast models are okay too, but I really can't see a use for the traction control and the stock viscous differential isn't TOO appealing). I've read the used car buying guide on here and searched about all of the general things I should look for when buying a used 350z just wanted to drop in to say Hi and to see if there were anything else I should know, TIA!
Also, I did searches on this and couldn't really find a definitive answer - if I do end up getting an Enthusiast model would getting non-staggered wheel/tires all around upset the traction control too much? How many are running 17s (and specifically non-staggered width) set ups for track? How do you like it?
I'm looking specifically at base models (enthusiast models are okay too, but I really can't see a use for the traction control and the stock viscous differential isn't TOO appealing). I've read the used car buying guide on here and searched about all of the general things I should look for when buying a used 350z just wanted to drop in to say Hi and to see if there were anything else I should know, TIA!
Also, I did searches on this and couldn't really find a definitive answer - if I do end up getting an Enthusiast model would getting non-staggered wheel/tires all around upset the traction control too much? How many are running 17s (and specifically non-staggered width) set ups for track? How do you like it?
Last edited by heyyouduh; Oct 21, 2009 at 01:45 PM.
go vq35de imo.
From what I have seen, de's have a cheaper aftermarket.....
But really, you can't go wrong with these cars (unless you buy a lemon....)
I would go for a Z around 12-14k, maybe a base + minor options then take the money and go FI
But it really depends on what your definition of a grocery getter is... (to me the Z feels like a slug stock, which is why I'm FINALLY going FI late this winter, and to me it is a cruiser)
From what I have seen, de's have a cheaper aftermarket.....
But really, you can't go wrong with these cars (unless you buy a lemon....)
I would go for a Z around 12-14k, maybe a base + minor options then take the money and go FI

But it really depends on what your definition of a grocery getter is... (to me the Z feels like a slug stock, which is why I'm FINALLY going FI late this winter, and to me it is a cruiser)
I like my 17" square track sets.
17x9.5" with 275 V710s for autox:

17x10" with 275 R5s for track:

Be sure to take a peek at used base 370Zs also, as I've seen asking prices in the mid 20s for them if you can find a base model. Otherwise the HR is a great option, but if you are buying a track *****, the DE is a great value.
17x9.5" with 275 V710s for autox:

17x10" with 275 R5s for track:

Be sure to take a peek at used base 370Zs also, as I've seen asking prices in the mid 20s for them if you can find a base model. Otherwise the HR is a great option, but if you are buying a track *****, the DE is a great value.
Thanks for the replies. I'm actually looking at a base model this weekend, although it has a recorded minor accident on Carfax. No airbag deployment though so I'll take a look at it and hopefully everything is fine. And with 300 hp I don't think I will do anything in the engine department anytime soon. The only mods I plan on doing in the near future are wheels/tires for track and some brake pads.
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thanks for the tips guys, keep em coming.
Does the touring come with power seats and sunroof? I dislike sunroofs, they just take up helmet space and add extra weight. Power seats are okay, but I really don't care for them enough to pay extra for it. What else does the touring come with over the base and enthusiast models?
Does the touring come with power seats and sunroof? I dislike sunroofs, they just take up helmet space and add extra weight. Power seats are okay, but I really don't care for them enough to pay extra for it. What else does the touring come with over the base and enthusiast models?
Oh, it was an essential and required upgrade to be competitive, IMO.
Yea Ive heard the stock viscous unit isn't anything to write home about. I'll think about an aftermarket unit, I've never owned a clutch type differnetial, I hear they are a hassle as far as maintenance goes but I haven't really looked into them that much. I actually don't mind power and leather seats (outside of the extra money) the only concern I have with leather seats is that they tend to be pretty slipper but I've yet to come across a touring model in my test drives. I do like the cloth seats, they fit me pretty well.
yes =p when you're used to driving a 155 crank hp car (the 240 was stock engine wise) like I am, 300hp seems like a major upgrade hahaha.... I'm not really that big on raw power, I prefer a well balanced car that I can have fun with on in the twisties and on track.
thanks for the tips guys, keep em coming.
thanks for the tips guys, keep em coming.
But I DO have a new koni yellow/ground control/misc. hardware suspension set that I'm selling, should offer better performance than most of the off the shelf JDM bling coilovers out there if you're interested ;]
...I actually don't mind power and leather seats (outside of the extra money) the only concern I have with leather seats is that they tend to be pretty slipper but I've yet to come across a touring model in my test drives. I do like the cloth seats, they fit me pretty well.
Last edited by halfass872; Oct 23, 2009 at 05:49 AM.
How so?? Cost's me $20 to drain the fluid and replace with M1 synthetic gear oil. So even if you are OCD about changing yoru rear end fluid every 10,000 miles, it's still relatively cheap, and takes less then a half an hour. I don't see any extra operating cost over a non-viscous unit. Unless you are talking internal upgrades of the OEM uinit.
They are bolstered pretty well so they don't slide you around as bad as you'd think. In the long run you are better off with the leather, i've heard the cloth seats tend to wear out pretty bad on the side bolsters from climbing in and out of the car. I'm 6'4" and i basically have to slide in and out of the car with all my weight on the bolster of my seats (leather) and aside from normal "cracking" of leather, there is no signs of wear or degrading even after 65,000 miles. As long as you keep them treated (once a year) and keep the sun off them (tint, window shade when parked) they will treat you well, and you keep that new car smell!!
They are bolstered pretty well so they don't slide you around as bad as you'd think. In the long run you are better off with the leather, i've heard the cloth seats tend to wear out pretty bad on the side bolsters from climbing in and out of the car. I'm 6'4" and i basically have to slide in and out of the car with all my weight on the bolster of my seats (leather) and aside from normal "cracking" of leather, there is no signs of wear or degrading even after 65,000 miles. As long as you keep them treated (once a year) and keep the sun off them (tint, window shade when parked) they will treat you well, and you keep that new car smell!!




