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Old Nov 1, 2018 | 10:10 AM
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Default Bleeding ABS brakes

Hello everyone,

Just recently broke a brake line which allowed my master cylinder to run dry. I have since replaced my brake line and refilled my reservoir. I did a typical brake bleed using the 2 person method. Did that about 4 times and got out all the air in my lines. Even with this I only have brakes if I pump them up and slam them. I’ve done a lot of research and found that most people say that there can be air trapped in my abs unit and master. This brings me to wonder if I am able to purge all the air out of those components without bringing it to a dealership and having them run a diagnostics tool that cycles the abs unit. I read that if you use a pressure bleeder it will actually open the abs lines and push the air out of that, into the brake lines allowing me to bleed it. Don’t know if that is true and am looking for some advice.

Thank you,
Z33_Ry

Last edited by Z33_Ry; Nov 1, 2018 at 11:10 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Old Nov 1, 2018 | 06:58 PM
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Do the two person method but start by bleeding the 4 fittings in top of the ABS block, then do the calipers.
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Old Nov 1, 2018 | 09:15 PM
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Have you done this before? Just want to know if you have any proof that this method works. Thank you
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Old Nov 2, 2018 | 07:38 PM
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Read my signature.
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Old Nov 2, 2018 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by i8acobra
Do the two person method but start by bleeding the 4 fittings in top of the ABS block, then do the calipers.
Still no luck. I did the 2 person method while bleeding the abs lines and then bled the brake lines. Got a little bit of air but nothing else. Appreciate the suggestion though.
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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 05:23 AM
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The problem isn't air then. Probably damaged the seals in the master cylinder when you ran it dry. Might need to replace it.
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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by i8acobra
The problem isn't air then. Probably damaged the seals in the master cylinder when you ran it dry. Might need to replace it.
ok, ya I think that’s the next best option. I took it to the dealership and they said they can’t bleed my brakes because I have aftermarket brake lines... I bled the master and saw that the front line shot a lot more fluid than the rear did. Do u think this could be a sign of a bad master?
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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 02:32 PM
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No, That's normal. Front brakes do more work, so they're larger and get more fluid.
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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by i8acobra
No, That's normal. Front brakes do more work, so they're larger and get more fluid.
would there be any way to tell if a master is bad forsure while it’s on the car? If not I’ll just replace it and see if that fixes it.

Dont know if this helps but if I drive and then press the brake fully down then release and press again it gets hard and I’m able to brake quickly.
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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 07:20 PM
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Engine off. Pump the pedal until it's hard. Then press and hold. Does the pedal slowly drop to the floor or stay hard?
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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by i8acobra
Engine off. Pump the pedal until it's hard. Then press and hold. Does the pedal slowly drop to the floor or stay hard?
Once you open the bleeder valve it will sink to the ground.
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Z33_Ry
Once you open the bleeder valve it will sink to the ground.
Well of course it will. He meant pressurized but hydraulically closed circuit to check for static air/vac/hydro leaks.

Last edited by MicVelo; Nov 4, 2018 at 05:49 AM.
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by MicVelo
Well of course it will. He meant pressurized but hydraulically closed circuit to check for static air/vac/hydro leaks.
oops, I miss read that. Yes the peddle will stay hard if u pump it then hold it. I am able to build up enough pressure so it will become firm after about 3 pumps.
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