ChocolateCowboy

Hello Z Family,
I am New to 350Z platform. So what had happen was.... Way back when in 2006 I got my first real job working for the state. I figured now that I am making money, I should get a sports car.. Soo, I went to the local Nissan Dealer to test drive a 2003 350z. The test drive was amazing, I fell in love with the car, I had to have it.. well turns out, Being in my early 20s I didn't have a cosigner or enough credit. I could not get the car. Sad I know.... butttt, here we are years later 2024 I am just now getting my my first Z!! Goal achieved!

I have been on this trading kick for a little while now, I traded a Honda CBR 600 F4i for my now 2003 Nissan 350z. I was told by the owner the car spun a bearing, but I still runs.. Sooooo I took it anyway, I had to have it.. The parts alone was enough to make me take it.
This 2003 B17 Daytona Blue 6 Spd car came with
Kenitic Intake plentum
HKS Exhaust
Wolf Technonogy cold air intake
Hotchkis sway bars
Rays Volk Racing TE37s (black with polished lips from early 2000s)

I think it was a fair trade.. lol Then the hunt for an engine began... I was hunting high and low for an engine.. they are all over the place. lol just gotta think about How much you want to spend. With that being said, about 2 weeks later I have found a whole parts car for $800 bucks such a freaking deal lol.. I think or thought
2004 White Auto car (parts car) came with
BC coilovers
Good running engine
TSW Seabring wheels in black
no seats but everything else was there
no front end lol for better engine extraction.

So now I have two cars to make one really good period correct driver.
Now here is the delima.. because I have one Auto car and one Manual, could I just pull the engine from the auto car add a new pilot bearing, then drop it in the manual car?
I wonder if there is any difference between the years 2003-2004?
I saw a video of a guy pulling the engine leaving the transmission in and just leaving the harness attached to the engine, Removing the power steering off the engine (its still connected to the car) and the same with the AC compressor (still connected to car) pulling those to the side and remove the engine. is that the right thing to do?
what would be the be the best way to make this happen?
I work at a car dealership so I have the tools and space to work on my cars (i am lucky to have that perk). I do work in service but, I am not a tech. I am mechanically inclined though. I work on own project cars. I would much rather do it myself than pay someone $4,000 to do a job I could possibly do. This is my story, happy to be be here and learn about possibly one of last true affordable sports car there is

This is My forever car

This is my parts car

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

I don't believe there are a lot of significant changes between the 03 and 04 models. With the 03 6MT, you may want to upgrade the trans to CD009, or, at a minimum, upgrade to a chromoly clutch release fork pivot ball and cast iron clutch release fork assembly (the 03 used stamped steel).

I think you are correct about the 04 engine from the AT being swapped to the 03 MT car with needing the pilot bearing.

Obviously, many other things or weak points could be addressed or upgraded while you have everything out, but that's up to you (and your budget).

Welcome to the madness.

ChocolateCowboy

Thank you, thank you! From what I gathered here is the list of what's already been done.. the car sits at 162,000 miles

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

First, Heel is 100% right. The CD009 is the most bullet proof manual for 03-06 VQ35DE equipped Zs. Also, the cast clutch fork and chromoly pivot ball are a must, since the 03s had a major defect with these. I recommend ditching the OEM flywheel and clutch, it's probably clapped out anyway if the original is still there of course. Go for a decent aftermarket flywheel and clutch, just know that the lightweight flywheels impact driver comfort negatively (gearbox chatter via torsional vibration). Most flywheel/clutch kits come with new pilot bushings and throwout bearings, but they do not include the upgraded pivot ball or cast clutch fork.

While you're at it, you could upgrade the exhaust manifolds, service the manual transmission or simply replace it with an updated CD009 (budget allowing). If you get that far along, check the transmission input shaft for excessive play. If the input shaft bearing is noisy or has a lot of movement in it, you're better off upgrading.

Cheers!
-Icer

ChocolateCowboy

I absolutely understand.. we will be doing thoes services and what not asap.. but first want to get this engine swap sorted and the "while the engine is out" stuff ad well.

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

If the engine is a high mileage unit, while it's out, budget allowing, I would knock out all the preventative maintenance items such as...
1) Timing chains and tensioners.
2) Water pump.
3) Valve covers + seals (upgraded Aluminum units which are serviceable).
4) Inspect front and rear main seals, replace if needed. Note: The rear requires removal of trans, lower, and upper oil pan to do properly (major work!)

Use OEM chains/tensioners + seals (except for aftermarket valve cover kit). Exhaust manifolds are a nice to have, but it's a lot of extra work to do when the engine in the car, so if you have the funds, I would knock it out now vs. later.

Now is also a good time to refresh a lot of your coolant hoses/system. You can probably re-use most of the hoses, but pull them off and check the pipes/nipples for corrosion and clean them up. Any hoses that are beginning to harden or show signs of seepage I would replace with new OEM. Silicone hose kits are not a good idea for a daily driver.
Cheers!
-Icer