So the car started today, but it will run for a few seconds and slowly loses power and will not idle. I am guessing the fuel injectors are clogged with funk from the bottom of the tank or was sitting in the lines.

Any thoughts?

 

I would double check fuel pressure at the rails. If it's looking weak, then I would point back to the fuel pump. Assuming nothing else has been changed or tampered with related to the engine, that's my best guess. Pressure at the injector rails should be around 50psi. I know it sat for a while, but 3-4 years isn't really long enough to create major sludge or rust issues on one of these. I know from experience here (and being in CA, we get the E10, 91 octane garbage petrol).

You replaced the fuel pump right? During the replacement, did it look like the tank was gummed up? My 1st Z was wrecked in a bad weather incident (hydroplaned), I purchased it back from insurance for parts. That car sat in my garage for 4 years before finally digging into it (life events, had some kids), when I finally removed the fuel pump from it, the tank looked new. The petrol left in the tank had turned slightly yellow/amber, but no signs of any sludge or rust.

Cheers!
-Icer

 

I did wipe out the bottom of the tank where the fuel pump was as there was some sludge material, and the old gas was nasty. Pump is pumping, I left the cover off so I could here it and make sure there wasn't a leak again. Would an fuel system flush be a good idea? Old cars are so much easier, lol.

 

Yeah, it never hurts to do a fuel system cleaner. I prefer to use BG 44K, I throw a can in the tank of my Z about once per year, but I also only use Chevron exclusively in my Z. Chevron invented the fuel/valve/combustion chamber cleaner additive packages that are used in all Top-Tier gasolines. They call it Techron, Shell calls it V-power...etc. Anyway, it's good stuff, BG makes high quality products and I trust them over Lucas or STP.

I'm a bit shocked that there was actual build up in your tank. Was the fuel cap left off or something? Anyway, if debris/sludge was confirmed, then there is a chance the injectors are fouled. You could also be running into the classic cam position or crank position sensor issues. Normally if those are having problems, you would get some DTCs stored and a CEL. So if you have access to a scan tool, run a quick check.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

So my buddy owns a speed shop, he said since the battery was dead and keeps losing charge, that I may need to recalibrate the throttle body for idle control.

 

Usually, the throttle body position (TPS) memory is stored in non-volatile memory of the ECU. A TPS relearn or Idle Air Volume Relearn (These are different calibrations) is usually only required when making intake modifications. Have you scanned the ECU for any stored/set codes?
-Icer

 

I don't have a scanner. I will clean out the TB in the next few days and steal the battery from my FJ.

The pictures below, I assume the first picture are the stock horns (not hooked up) and the second picture is an aftermarket super loud horn that sounds like a police car.

And is this the correct thread to be asking all these questions?

Thanks
DM3

 

That's right about the OEM horns. They are the two snail-looking black pieces.

PO changed it to a police siren? I guess that's par for the course on this one.

Be careful when cleaning the TB. I've seen some horror stories with people manually moving the butterfly valve and then having idle issues afterwards. IIRC, these are resolved with an idle relearn.

As far as a scanner is concerned, Z1 sells one which I believe is a rebadged Foxwell NT510 with Nissan software preloaded onto it. With all the issues with your Z, it would be best to invest in a good scanner to troubleshoot.

But yeah man, you can keep posting questions in this thread.

 

Getting there slowly. Will try the idle reset this weekend, will steal a battery out of my FJ40 and see what happens. I think I am done working on this, except cleaning, until I see if the State is going to give me a title. 3 to 4 month process which I have 12 steps and have to do them in order.

I assume the rear spoiler is an aftermarket one, would they have drilled new holes and possibly used factory mounting holes. I would like to swap for a stock or 'duck tail' spoiler. I also want to get rid of those rims as well and get stock 370 black rims.

At least it starts and runs while I push the gas pedal a little, and the fast and furious stuff is gone and swapped at no cost for stock.

 

Yes, the spoiler is aftermarket, if you're interested in a nice Duckbill style spoiler, I recommend the TwinZ Design or Evo-R Blitz (both are FRP material, no drilling required). I'm running with the Evo-R duckbill and I like it. You can maintain the factory hatch badging with both.

Be careful when cleaning the electronic TB. Make sure to use a "safe cleaner", something like brake clean could cause damage. I prefer fully removing the TB for clear access to both sides of the throttle plate.

That intake tube + cone filter on there is not doing you any favors either, there's no heat barrier, meaning a lot of hot air coming right off the rad/condenser is mixing with the fresh. I would look at getting a stock 06 airbox if you can find one. There are also some good aftermarket designs that incorporate proper heat barriers.

Ditch that aftermarket siren, yuck!

About running with 370Z rims. Note: You will need spacers for correcting the offset. They are 19" diameter, so a lower profile tire will be need to be used. Nothing wrong with that for most people, just wanted to make sure you're aware. They are good looking wheels, I really like the 370Z Nismo wheels and the new RZ34 Nismo wheels (bronze).

For basic scan tools, I really like the Bluedriver from Lemur (about $100). Great for reading codes and clearing codes. But if you need more advanced bi-directional functions, The Foxwell clone is a good affordable option.

Good Luck with the title paperwork! Dealing with the DMV is never fun.
-Icer

 

Thanks for the info!

Aftermarket siren is gone, along with all the extra flashing lights and the led strips all over the bottom of the car.

 

One thing to add about using 370Z/Z34 OEM wheels, in addition to spacers (which Icer already mentioned), they use shank or mag style lug nuts as opposed to the conical or cone seated lug nuts used on 350Z/Z33 OEM wheels. The conical lug nuts are fairly common with aftermarket tuning lug nuts (which looks like what you currently have).

 

If or when I get a title, I will be looking for a set of either of these in black, or will get them powder coated. Are the top and bottom picture 350 or 370 wheels?

 

Never mind, they are both 370 wheels.

 

Yep, both 370Z wheels depending on trim level. Btw, that top pictured black 350Z (1st pic) is running the TwinZ Design duckbill spoiler along with the other TwinZ body kit goodies (diffuser, rear spats, side skirts and front lip). To my knowledge, Z1 Motorsports is the only business with distribution rights for TwinZ products in the USA. They are very well crafted pieces and it shows in the prices. The shipping costs are high and often outweigh the value of the individual part.

Cheers!
-Icer

 

That's right. The middle picture shows the OEM 370Z 19" "Sport" wheels manufactured by Rays and found on MY '09-'12. Stock specs are 19x9 +47 in the front and 19x10 +30 in the rear.

The top and bottom pictures show the OEM 10 spoke wheels that were found on later years and other trims like the touring and base. I think they are 18x8 +43 in the front and 18x9 +15 in the rear.

The high offset in the front is the reason why you need to run spacers on a Z33 for proper fitment unless you're able to source a square setup with all rear wheels.

 

Well its been a while. I have been working on getting all the necessary paperwork to submit to the NJ DMV to obtain a title for this car. What a PIA this was, but the package was mailed this morning, fingers crossed.

I took off the spoiler and put rubber plugs in the holes that mounted the spoiler. Just an opinion, to you think either of these spoilers are large enough to cover the existing holes in the trunk lid, TwinZ Design or Evo-R Blitz spoilers?

Thanks

DM3

 

Hard to say. If I had to guess (based on the below picture of the TwinZ spoiler I found) it looks to be large enough to cover those holes in the middle of the hatch since the spoiler appears to extend to the part of the hatch before it beings to taper down. I don't think the Evo spoiler would be big enough.

TwinZ

 

Negative. Both duckbill spoiler options (TwinZ & Evo-R) will not cover the 3 holes closer to the glass. At best they might bisect or butt up against them at their edge (but I doubt you will even get that close). You will need to get some body work done to clean those up, sucks, but cheaper and less headache vs. replacing the entire hatch. The TwinZ spoiler uses less surface area than the Evo-R. Both spoilers slightly overhang the rear drop-off where the emblems are mounted.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

Heel - Thanks for the info.