Thanks for the info, that is what I was hoping to avoid.

 

That sucks. If you're going to have to outsource the body work to get those holes filled and you plan on going with an aftermarket lip/spoiler, I think it would look pretty slick to have to body shop mold it to the trunk and make it seamless without noticeable lines. Definitely more expensive, but I think it would look better aesthetically. Just a thought.

Something like this from this thread (https://my350z.com/forum/body-exteri...-warranty.html)

(not sure why the pic isn't uploading...)

 

Update: Received the title today! A month or so early, complete surprise. I had called DMV last last week and they told me to call back mid-December.

So now the fun begins, I will be looking for and ordering parts this week.

Questions: I am ordering an aluminum engine cover for under the car. Do you install it over the plastic cover or take the plastic cover off. The cover is in bad shape.

Also, I need to replace the trim/weatherstripping around the rear hatch window. Any suggestions on where to purchase the part?

Thanks

 

For the engine undertray/cover install, simply remove the old plastic one and replace with aluminum.
For the rear hatch window. Are you speaking of the exterior stripping between the glass and hatch body panel or the weatherstripping that seals the hatch panel to the trunk body?

There are no aftermarket options available for these seals/moldings. So perhaps it doesn't matter.

The glass seal P/N is: 90352-CD000
Z1 has a reasonable price on it.

I could be wrong, but I think you have to remove the rear glass to replace this seal.

Cheers!
-Icer

 

So I called my local window guy that installed my glass on another car. The trim molding was brittle and had started to fall apart and with oprning and closing the hatch, a section pushed its way inside causing a leak. He just removed the old trim and we hit it with the hose for about 15 minutes, no leak.





QUOTE=icer5160;11140836]For the engine undertray/cover install, simply remove the old plastic one and replace with aluminum.
For the rear hatch window. Are you speaking of the exterior stripping between the glass and hatch body panel or the weatherstripping that seals the hatch panel to the trunk body?

There are no aftermarket options available for these seals/moldings. So perhaps it doesn't matter.

The glass seal P/N is: 90352-CD000
Z1 has a reasonable price on it.

I could be wrong, but I think you have to remove the rear glass to replace this seal.

Cheers!
-Icer[/QUOTE]

 

I replaced the rear tires since they were a little bald and dry rotted from sitting in the woods for a few years. Took off the cold air intake and cleaned the MAF sensor. I also took off the throttle body and cleaned that as well, its much better then before. I also cleaned the air filter. I re-installed the throttle body but needed to order another torque wrench, so it is technically not installed.

I ran an engine scan and here is what came up:
P0223 - throttle/pedal position sensor/switch B circuit high
P0123 - throttle/pedal position sensor/switch A circuit high
P0113 - intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit high

They are all related to the throttle body, so hopefully after everything is re-installed, these will go away.

I will torque down the throttle body hopefully tonight, re-install the cold air intake and connect the MAF and throttle body sensors and re-run the engine scan.
Hopefully it starts, I will also try to re-calibrate the throttle body if needed.

New rear tires will be put on tonight, and I am looking at 370Z wheels this weekend to get rid of these aftermarket wheels.

 

If you can source a compatible unit, replace the cone filter with a new one and make sure it gets properly oiled! The throttle body looked pretty nasty, but that could've been oxidation (assuming those are after cleaning shots). Also, you will need to do a position and idle relearn after cleaning both components (TB and MAF).

You weren't kidding about those tires. Those things are cracked + bald real bad, probably would have blown out under "spirited" driving conditions. Also very uneven wear in the center, probably were being run over-inflated.

I just replaced the tires on my Z yesterday (Monday). Rears were basically slicks, fronts still had some good meat on em, but the rubber was pushing 8 years old. Best to just get them all done for peace of mind. I'm sticking with Michelin Pilot Super Sports, love those tires, excellent wet weather rating for a summer sport tire. Timing was spot on, going into wet winter months.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

Question, I installed and torqued down the throttle body. Turned the key to on (not started) and pushed the gas pedal and the flapper didn't move. Do I have to do the idle and position relearn first?

Or is the TB shot? I will have to check voltage at the plug hopefully tomorrow, getting cold working outside.

Thanks

 

I'm not sure if the TB will move with the pedal, even if the key is in the Accessory or Pre-start position. I think it should, but haven't tested this out myself.

Based on the codes you're receiving, check your gas pedal and make sure the rubber bump stop is in place (If the pedal position is out of the pre-determined set points/values, perhaps it's disabling input from the pedal). Another possibility is you're having a problem with the gas pedal potentiometer. Usually "circuit high" codes indicates a wiring short or an internal component failure. Worst case scenario, you need to replace the gas pedal. Without an advanced bidirectional scan tool, it's going to be more work to determine. But there should be a section in the FSM covering these DTCs and how to troubleshoot.
Good Luck!
-Icer

 

So I should re-install the cold air stuff, do the re-learns and then see if the car runs correctly. Then go from there.

 

Yes, I think that's a good starting point. Reconnect everything, clear the codes, and begin the calibrations.



IF the "circuit high" codes come back immediately, then you have a hard fault with the electronic throttle pedal circuit and need to troubleshoot. It could be a wiring fault or component failure.
Cheers!
-Icer

Edit: Looking at this with more detail, it appears the focus of these codes is primarily on the throttle body. Troubleshooting steps involve checking grounds and voltages from ECM & executing relearns/calibrations. You may not be getting movement on the throttle body because the ECM has entered fail-safe mode. So step 1 should definitely be reconnecting everything and clearing codes. Step 2 should be executing the calibrations.

You can find all the details in the "EC" (Engine Control System) section of the FSM.

 

So I connected everything last night and started the car, same result, very weak idle and slowly died.

I will do the re-learns this weekend.

Here is the order I was thinking:

Delete codes
ECU reset
Throttle Body reset
Idle Air re-learn
Accelerator Pedal Release re-learn

Anything need to me done in a different order or something I missed?

Thanks DM3

 

The throttle plate shouldn't open unless the car is running, which I believe is how most drive by wire throttle bodies behave.

Your first 2 steps are correct (although resetting the ECU should also clear the codes), but I would follow the FSM procedure for the remaining 3 steps. That would be:

Delete codes
ECU reset
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Idle Air Volume Learning

If it still fails to idle after all of that, then I'm guessing your injectors are probably gummed up as others have mentioned. Could also be a vacuum leak or ignition problem. Have you checked the spark plugs?

 

Thanks for the imput. I have not checked the spark plugs. I guess that can be put on the list as well. I will clean the injectors if the re-learns do not work.

Thanks

 

Progress, sorta of...

I replaced the wheels with stock 370 wheels, will need spacers on the front. Completely changed the look of the car.
Replaced the aftermarket rear tail lights with stock, again, looks much better.
Replaced the door handles that were covered with black plastic dip with black handles.

I put in 5 gallons of gas and a can of injection cleaner.
Cleared the engine codes.
Did the ECU, throttle body, pedal and idle re-learns.
Car will idle now without slowing losing power and shutting off, sounds good.
I actually drove the car around the block, it is still in limp mode, will not rev over 2k.
After the slow ride around the block, ran the engine check again and no codes can up but the dash is still lite up like a x-mass tree.

I was told by someone that his rear tail light burned out and that put the car in limp mode. So I will replace the bulbs and check all the fuses again tomorrow.

Any other things I should check?

Thanks
DM3

 

If the brake lights are burned out or your brake pedal switch is not indexed correctly, then the vehicle will go into limp mode. So I would start with making sure your brake lights are 100%, also make sure they aren't stuck on with the pedal released. If they are, then you need to adjust the pedal switch.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

It looks like you have cone seat lug nuts and not the correct Mag seat lug nuts for the 370z. You will crash and the wheel will come off. This happened in my friends G35 with me in the car.


I hope I am wrong, but if not DO NOT drive the car until you get the correct lug nuts.

 

Very good point GreyZ!
-Icer

 

Thanks guys, will keep you posted.

DM3

 

GM,

The headlights in this car were butchered like the rest of the electrical wiring. When I pulled out the headlights, the plugs are 8 pin. I have been looking at replacing with stock headlights, and they seem to be 6 pin.

Any ideas? As a reminder 2003 touring model

Question: Can I use OEM 6 pin headlights and just buy the wire the converts from 8 pin to 6 pin?

Thanks