so what kind of tuning are people using for a 100 wet shot if any? And are u spraying into the maf, or into the throttle body?
its been a while for me and my Z!

 

what about the edelbrock dry kit that turbo magazine did a special on??
it wires up to the fuel enrichment module and works like a zex kit (only on wot) they made i think 352whp and they say its a very safe kit to use

 

IF you want the motor to stay strong....do not use a dry kit. They are a thing of the past. Wet kits are the only way to go. NX is the only nitrous manufacturer I WILL EVER USE. real wheel horsepower....not flywheel HP.

Anybody know if the Nitrous express NXL universal kits will work on the Z??? I got this email from a Tech at NX....anyone that can measure the injector bungs, let me know.... SEE BELOW (NXL kits by NX act as a direct port system without having to drill hold in the intake manifold - therefore producing a more even distribution of nitrous to all cylinders without the permanant labor).

"Robert,
There are no plans in works to build an NXL system for the 350Z. Honestly,
I don't see my bosses ever doing it, but you never know. If you measure your
injector bung and it is either .840" or .541" then you can use the universal
NXL system. It uses the NXL nozzle and lines but uses a distribution block
for the fuel and nitrous delivery instead of the fuel rail design.

Thank you,
------------------------------------
Nitrous Express
Jeremy
Tech
jeremy@nitrousexpress.com
5411 Seymour Hw.
Wichita Falls, Tx. 76310
tel: 940-767-7694
fax: 940-767-7697"

 

i work for Napa auto Parts and we deal with holley and edelbrock daily, i also work at a local speed shop called CPR racing, i talked to edelbrock twice lately and they highly recommend their kit, turbo magazine did a article about the kit and had good results, 352WHP, with a 125 shot and 100octane, no other mods, stock car no exhaust, STOCK, and then super street did another 350 with the same kit and made 360WHP, not crank hp, they did alot of designing with the kit to learn how to wire it up with the fuel enrichment module and WOT activation ecu that comes with the kit, no buttons, no switchs, less wiring, no tapping fuel rail, these modules add fuel and reduce timing for you!!!

Chris at edelbrock was very helpful and told me about the install before i even bought it (it will be here next week). to each and their own but ive always ran dry kits on mustangs because you have less chance of a back-fire from loading up with fuel, but you gotta make sure you have enough on a dry kit, theres bad views on both.

im gonna go with the edelbrock kit, emanage ultimate, and a good old walbro pump and shot for around 400WHP, with all this ill still be under 1500.00 and very very reliable to drive and should go low 12's to high 11's.

all this being said the only kit ive seen tested and advertised and installed and dyno'd was edelbrock and if the kits god enough for turbo magazine and super street to do a write up, its good enough for me to.

good luck with you decision
DJ

 

Backfire....also know as detonation is caused by LEAN conditions....not rich homey. Dry kits do not add fuel...hince the name. Their control unit might tell the injectors to add fuel, but thats exactly how venom and zex started out. Of course Edelbrock is going to recommend their own stuff...come on...common sense...and don't believe everything you read. Remember the products these magazine review belong to their advertising customers. **** off your customer too much and loose their sponsership as a advertiser. One more thing....a 350z is not a mustang. When nitrous first showed up on the scene, they were all dry systems...used on carb'd american cars. Times change and so do engines. You own a nice import....it deserves the best....Nitrous Express......Trust me....I've been doing this a long time...hince my name. But to each his own....good luck with your kit!!!!

 

backfires are caused by puddling of fuel from wet kits, normally puddled in the intake manifold and then it ignites and can completely explode a intake or a upper plenum for that matter, detonation doesnt cause backfire issues, that causes burnt piston and internal engines problems (rings, pistons,etc) and im not new to the nitrous game , just new to the 350z game, ive had over 10 built fox bodys and had dry to wet kits on all of them and saw good and bads of both.

Detonation is caused by to much timing and not enough octane, why do you think methanol and alcohol motors run unlimited boost levels and they can run a *** of timing, and im not stupid i know the difference between wet and dry, just to let you in on a lil secret i just sold a 10sec dsm with a fp3065, 2.3 stroker, running 30psi with a direct port 150shot (wet!)

Have you saw videos of drag cars explding when they launch?? thats from to much fuel, you really have to be careful when you attivate a wet kit because if you dont have enough air flow it will PUDDLE up and shot your upper plenum or your 300.00 cold air intake threw your hood, and just to be honest the best people to ask about nitrous arent 350z owners, ask the ls1 and mustang drivers, i work at CPR racing here in columbia sc, you can check out my old car at that web site www.potterracing.com, weve had multiple magazine write ups and also have chris tuten which has won his division in the NMRA for the last 2yrs heres his sponsors main link http://precisionturbo.net/ he's the green turbo mustang, and he runs our dyno and does all our tuning.

and you said all the carb kits were dry?? where are you from, there hasnt ever been a carb kit sold dry, you gotta buy a universal kit to get a dry, all the carb kits come with a plate that have hook ups for both fuel and nitrous (the nos sniper, cheater kits, gene fulton kits, etc) and all this kits come with both fuel and nitrous solenoids show me one plate on here dry.......http://www.holley.com/types.asp?type=545 theres not one, im not bashing your thoughts, just stating facts that ive learns over the last 15yrs, im 32 yrs old and have owned numerous mustangs, couple of old hard core chevys, and my last 4 yr project was a 10sec eclipse gsx.

facts!
dry kits good and bad
BAD-if lean you will damage your motor
GOOD-they will not puddle up and explode like a wet kit
GOOD-easier to install (LESS HARDWARE)

wet kits
BAD-can explode if engine suffers from lack of airflow
BAD- can explode if fuel puddles anywhere in engine due to above discription or just to much fuel.
GOOD-safer on engine because less chance of leaning out
BAD-more hardware to install (solenoids, wiring, tapng fuel system, etc)

one more thing on a zex or nx kit how are you reducing timing?? its done threw the modules that come with the edelbrock kit, the kits you have or the ones your talking about are universal they have no type of timing control, remember for every 50hp of gas you need to reduce your timing 2 degrees.

again not bashing just chatting, i like talking about this stuff with others, ill let you know about the edelbrock kit with facts the end of this coming week after we install it and dyno it, ill have sheets with stock pulls w/ air fuel readings and after with gas w/ air fuel reading.

later
DJ

 

DJ,

All the points you make are very good. Yes, a wet kit can backfire and cause you to blow off intake parts. However the level of explosion you are talking about, with intakes blowing through your hood would not happen on the setups we are running on our 350 Zs with stock internals. We simply do not add THAT much fuel on our smaller shots.

You sound like you know what you are talking about when it comes to puddling. So then you know how puddling is caused and therefore know how to eliminate it!

1. Always spray with proper bottle pressure – the nitrous pressure is essential so that the nitrous can push the fuel into the intake. Of course gravity is going to grab some of the fuel and this is where the large volume of air coming into your intake takes over and picks up the remaining fuel.

2. DO NOT use cold air intakes with rubber pieces like the Injen – if you have that particular CAI, convert it to a short ram - I personally had two backfires as a result of this and we figured out why. It's fine for smaller shots, but when you get to 100 or above you can run into problems of the rubber piece actually suctioning close as the motor begins to really draw large amounts of air due to the increased power.

3. Always keep the air filter clean – this also added to the backfire and suctioning close of the rubber piece – ever see what happens to a McDonald’s straw when you first start drinking a milk shake? That is what the rubber section of an Injen CAI does when you run a large shot and dirty air filter.

4. Never spray the kit below a safe RPM. Fewer than 3000 – 3200 RPMS, based on your shot size, may not be safe due to the low volume of air to assist the nitrous in carrying the fuel.

5. Constantly keep an eye on your spark plugs as you do not want them to foul and not fire. This will obviously lead to a super rich condition and power loss, which will in turn result in less air being pulled into the motor, which is needed to carry that fuel.

There’s nothing wrong with a very small dry kit, but I would not prefer to push the duty cycle of my injectors with a dry kit that adds fuel via the OEM injectors. Especially when you start talking about 400 WHP like you are.

I assume that with your level of knowledge, you know that you can EASILY avoid puddling. With that being said, there is no doubt that as long as you avoid it, Wet Kits are much safer overall for use with the 350 Z.

If you really want the ultimate in safety, go with a NX wet kit and the Maximizer. Unlike the crude previous versions, this bad boy does everything for you. Opens the bottle, heats the bottle to exact pressure, purges, and tons of other things by the activation of one switch. It can pull timing and will even shut off at a pre set AFR if you have the wideband module hooked up to it. Built in window switches and even counts the gear that your in so that you can adjust shots sizes and pattern based on what gear your in. You can even adjust the amount of spray proportional to your throttle position.

http://www.fjoracing.com/products/Maximizer2/

It doesn’t get any better than that!

 

thats is a nice product!

im gonna try to start of by running the 90shot that comes with the edelbrock kit and colder plugs, and when we go race ill install the 125 pill (with race gas) we will test the 125shot on the dyno with some 110octane, and watch the duty cycle and check a/f ratio's as long as their where they should be that will be my stopping point (i will not go larger) with my exhaust, 125shot, short ram, and new headers i should see 400whp.

ill post the dyno sheet after the install and let you know how it goes, thanks for the info on the other topic, that helped me make my decision.

also have you ran your car (1/4) and whats your best so far??

thanks again
DJ

by the way that kinetix manifold looks awesome, did you see and feel the difference, and how much did it set you back??? that will probably be my next purchase

 

I notice the SSV on the motor alone, but the real pay off was when I spray. The SSV does such a better job of evenly distibuting the nitrous and fuel to each runner that I could not believe the difference.

Another thing I was going to tell you is that I used to only run 1 step colder plugs, but just changed them out for two steps and that was one of my smartest moves to date. I would always get a little noise on the knock, but never thought much about it because I had gotten a little on the motor alone on occassion. It was not very high, but enough to register 14 - 20. I did not realize that the Z was pulling as much timing as it was when this occured until I aquired a way of tracking this. Trust me on this one, if you are going to spray 75 or more, go ahead and throw in some two step colder plugs. The small amount of detonation you get on 1 steps will not immediately damage the motor, but will definitely make the OEM ECU pull some timing. Needless to say that since the plug change, the ECU is not pulling that timing and now the nitrous feels extremely smooth and a lot stronger.

 

thats the way my dsmlink used to work also, if i had a knock count higher than 4.0 it would pull 5 or more degree's of timing and like you said you can feel the difference.

what plug part#'s do you have, i know their probably ngk's, you dont happen to have the 4 digit box # or the ngk part #??

 

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....t=colder+plugs

There you go bro. I used the Denso Iridium 2 steps. Ordered them through Autozone and had them the next day. You will see the part numbers for both them and the NGK's. Let me know if you find anymore plugs, as I will add them to that thread.

 

Look man, I didn't leave the last post to get your panties in a bunch. I wrote it to try and steer you clear of dry kits. THESE CARS AREN'T MUSTANGS and TA's.....Most imports don't have puddling issues cuz we CAN'T squeeze 350 shot of nitrous on little 4 and 6 cyl engines. Most ppl that want that kind of power buy a turbo kit and maybe throw nitrous on top of that if they have good management (dfi, hondata, power fc, emanage, aem, haltech, etc.) Like I said before, these are not american cars. Imports are a different animal. I don't take advise from mustang guys....cuz they are the same ones that say "there's no replacement for displacement" and "no 4 banger can run 10s" - and that was 12 years ago....now they're running 7 seconds...anyhow, that's not the point....I'm glad you're 32, congrats...at least I'm not talking to some teenager who's been reading Turbo magazine for 3 months and has a Sentra. *sigh*...I'm well aware of what detonation is and how it occurs....I've had numerous turbo and nitrous vehicles and prefer nitrous over any other type of forced induction. I've been building imports since 1993....NOT MUSTANGS. I have installed plenty of nitrous systems and have never had puddling issues....I guess I'm doing something right. I retard timing with an aftermarket ignition system (if timing needs to be retarded). Your rule of thumb for timing retard is for dry and some wet kits like NOS, Edelbrock, etc....Nitrous Express does not require timing retard per 50 shot of nitrous. I ran a 50 shot on my daily driver (94 civic) for two years with stock timing and that motor ran just as good the day I sold it as the day I bought it. Check out Nitrous Express' website...its one of the benefit of buying their products....THAT IS WHY I HAVE URGED YOU TO BUY ONE....NOT to get your feeling hurt. Its funny...try and help someone out and they act like you're stepping on their pride. As for the carb kits....I was refering to when people starting putting them on their cars.......50 years ago. You posted a link for a kit....was that available back then??? NO. Nitrous actually started back in WWII. They put it on planes like the P-51, Corsair, PJ, etc etc...They called it WEP (war emergency power)...it lasted for a few minutes (unlike in cars...15 seconds). Then it made its way to vehicles. ALL DRY SETUPS. Understand where I was coming from?..scroll up and see my last post.


How do you reduce timing on ZEX....ZEX has a module like your precious Edelbrock.....NX does not...Like I said above....I used aftermarket ignition systems (i.e. MSD). For someone who says he knows his stuff and has looked at all the nitrous systems, you sure don't know who uses what. I've never owned a Zex system, but I know their product.

You small town boys need to chill out and realize when someone is tryin to help you and be a friend. Getting your feelings hurt and trying to school me is not exactly friendly conversation. Good luck with your ride.

 

Save your breath...he won't listen. OK DJ...this is a second person telling your WHY WET KITS ARE BETTER. AND RECOMMENDING THE SAME KIT I WAS. Still getting the Edelbrock...good job *rolls eyes*

 

+1 more

Im running WET 100 to 150 by NX controlled by my Maximizer. ON STOCK INTERNAL and TIMING.

 

i completely understand what all of you are saying its just ive added prices on kits and all my options to go with, (i didnt check the nx kit your talking about)

just say i run into leaning conditions by maxing out injectors, i think im still gonna be cheaper to go dry, and then add injectors or add emanage ultimate.

whats that complete kit w/controller run??

my kit 400.00
injectors if i need them 400.00
emanage ultimate 600.00
1400.00 & i get free tuning
and with the ultimate i can really fine tune it, i really do agree with you all, (its just you came of harse about dry kits and i think they work well on alot of cars) i havent made the order yet for my kit (thats why im talking to you guys) its just i really liked that fuel enrichment option with the edelbrock kit, if the kits you guys have are "affordiable" and not outragous im really considering it, give me some prices of what your complete kits cost and then ill make my decision.

sorry if you thought i was being a ***, my bad, i really do appreciate the suggestions.

later
DJ

 

If you do your research, you will find that our stock ECU has up to 4 degrees of timing adjustment. which some have said is good for a 125 shot.

so if a 100 shot is your max why the emanage?

 

125 is my max go back up top and check my post, i said 125 is my stopping point, thats all i want to run, and edelbrock said i actually dont need any other fuel mods for this

 

There have been one or two other people on this forum that have used or tried to use the Edelbrock kit in the past. You may want to try to locate them in other threads.

I did a search and found this topic to be thoroughly discussed in the past.

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....lbrock+nitrous

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....lbrock+nitrous

I think there have been a couple of the problems with the kit and a couple of successful set ups. I am sure you will be doing the best possible set up, so I am sure it will work for you. Please don't think that I am recommending this kit, as I am not in any way.

On a poorly tuned 75 shot (Z was pulling timing), I put down 337 HP and 388 TQ. The torque was immediate and constant across the band from 3500 RPMs to about 5200 RPMs. Now that I have some timing pulled via the Cipher and some 2 step iridium plugs which were shipped to me gapped at .33, there is no doubt that that 75 shot is more like 345 to 350 HP and high 390 TQ. That is a lot of power to contiunally put on those OEM injectors. I believe the other guys running SC and turbos are swapping out injectors when they are around that point.

With that being said. With 100 shot and greater, there is no way in hell that I would want to put my OEM injectors through that.

One other thing that I would recommend to all other nitrous users is the Kinetix SSV Intake!!! I have done a lot of spraying, and when I say a a lot, I mean A LOT. It was quite apparent by removing the Crawford intake and studying the lower plenum that niether nitrous nor fuel were evenly distributed to all cylinders. This prompted me to buy the SSV as soon as I discovered this.

If you do switch intakes, you will notice that the power is MUCH smoother, yet stronger. The SSV just does a much better job of distributing the nitrous and fuel to each runner. Of course nothing is as good as direct port, but this is damn close!!

 

i have a wet NX 130 shot, its . 053 and .028 jet sizes, i have been through many tanks and have had no problems, no warning signs of problems.....


you need to quit worrying about the nitrous and worry about how you will get the tires to hold actually

i have a few other mods and can be running in fourth gear, hit the nitrous and break the tires loose and get the car sideways as hell....

im still on stock 18s with potentzas...

 

How long have you been sprayin. I see you have been through many tanks...just wondering how long you've had the kit on the car. You running 1 or 2 step colder plugs? Hear any knocking when sprayin??? Thanks for the input!!!!!!!