In another post, I asked questions about Turbo, Super, and Nitrous options while still maintaining a dependable daily driver.

I have decided to go with Nitrous because it is not on all the time, can be controlled easily (jets vs. superchargers belts and pulleys), and is easily turned back to stock.

Now, I plan on my engine set up to be this:
JWT Popcharger
ME 5/16 Plenum Spacer
1 Degree Colder Iridium Spark Plugs (good for any NO2 setup)
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump (to supply extra fuel)
Zex Nitrous Wet Kit with 75hp Jets (instead of 100 for safety)

If you noticed, the only truely visable part of my engine upgrades will be the Popcharger and that is exactly what I want.

Here is my question:
I am evidently going to need a ECU upgrade to prevent running lean and causing detonation. I am trying to get away from the $1000 price of a UTEC. Will the Greddy E-Manage or even the Greddy E-Manage Ultimate provide me with what I need to switch between a street and race map? Any advice would be appreciated.

 

My advice would be to avoid a dry manifold system such as the Zex or Edelbrock at all costs. They are limited by how much you can raise the fuel pressure to provide supplemental fuel. You then have the issue of replacing the fuel pump. I went through all this years ago with a Mitsubishi 3000GT. With a 75 HP nitrous boost, the engine was already starting to run lean.

A wet system such as sold by NX will work much better. I have an NX wet system on my 2006 350Z and currently it is jetted for about 100 HP and 12.5 AFR. Dynoed at about 335 RWHP. The only other engine changes were one step colder NGK LFR6A-11 V power spark plugs (big fat electrodes - stay away from the platinum or iridium plugs with tiny center electrodes).

A 25%-33% boost is safe for most engines on stock internals. That translates to a 75-100 HP setup for the Z engine. If you go much higher than that, you can count on joining the other victims listing their sad tales of woe on this forum. Sorry guys, there is nothing cool about blowing up an engine (unless you own the shop that makes a fat profit fixing it).

If you go above 75 HP you should also look at getting a progressive controller with RPM and throttle position window switch inputs so you can gradually bring the nitrous in between 3000-5000 RPM and insure it turns off below the rev limit. Otherwise the tremendous torque boost at low RPM will put excessive strain on the engine and you will likely become another nitrous victim.

To make the system consistent, you really need a bottle heater.

Going from 300 to 400 engine HP with nitrous will also cause traction problems. I installed a Nismo LSD (limited slip differential). The stock viscous slip units are worthless for racing. They are intended for rain or snow conditions. The Nismo LSD cost as much as all the nitrous stuff but made it possible to get the added power to the road. It made an astonishing difference.

 

If you are only using 75 jets then you don't need anything except the kit. Your Stock fuel pump can handle up to 150shot with no problem so you definatly would be throwing your money away on the fuel pump.

You won't need ANY engine management for just a 75 shot. If you go to 100 shot or higher then you will need a UTEC. I am not 100% sure about the Greddy Engine Management systems for n2o.

Check out my thread for some more information:

https://my350z.com/forum/nitrous-oxide/264609-my-nitrous-setup-125-shot-pics.html