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DynoTune Nitrous Install Problems?!>!

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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 05:08 PM
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Thumbs down DynoTune Nitrous Install Problems?!>!

Ok installed the whole kit and put in the 75 jets. Went for a drive and sprayed a couple of times and it worked great, on the last pass I made spraying the car starting acting all funny and wouldnt idle down, I heard a hissing under the hood and realized the nitrous was still spraying..The intake tube was freezing cold along with the TB was damm near frozen.

I reached around and turned the bottle off and it stopped hissing. It seems like the solenoid is stuck open maybe?? Im no expert and need some help.

The thing that confuses me with this kit is on the 2 solenoids (fuel/nos) the wires are all one color on each solenoid..I think the Nitrous solenoid has 2 black wires and the fuel has 2 red wires. Why would they do this, U have to twist one black and red together from each one (to ground), then one black and red goes to the Relay.. This defies the laws of electricians by twisting black and red wires togheter. The instructions dont say anything about this.

Ok guys all help is greatly appreciated. -Chris
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 05:57 PM
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From: raleigh-wood NC
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solenoids are not polarity specific. ground 1 and + one.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 06:02 PM
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Ok I took off the out line to the nitrous solenoid and cracked open the bottle and nitrous came out the solenoid and was hissing out. I tool apart the solenoid and the inside looks fine. I put it back together and its still doing the same thing.....
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 09:20 PM
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Ok I got it. The seal inside the solenoid was a little dished, I beat it flat with a little hammer and its working like a champ. I almost killed the hole bottle tonight between it leaking and testing it out. I LOVE IT SO FAR!!! The car pulls like a raped ape with only 750Psi of pressure in the bottle!!

One problem is that my idle is now over 1250. And I got some code about my IAC Ram being to high... Anyone have any ideas on what that could be??
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 11:27 PM
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+1 on what str8dum1 said. You just have to deal with it.

I'm glad you were able to fix the problem. However, keep an eye out on it to see if it happens again, in which case, it should be replaced. I've had issues with my nitrous solenoid leaking, too (still do have a very minor leak even with my new solenoid, but I actually prefer that), so I know how fast the bottle can drain. I also recall freezing everything around the leaking solenoid.

As far as unusually high idle goes, you can reset that (there's a DIY here on the forum somewhere) yourself. And for the code, can you give me the actual DTC code?
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 07:05 AM
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Thanks im going to try that today, I believe the code was p0507 or 09. Idle control system higher then expected. Im going to check again for leaks.

Also im going to open the hatch and let the bottle sit in the sun for a while and give it another run. I cant wait to see what it can do with over 950Psi. Does it make that much of a difference?? How many sprays can I get on a full 10lb bottle?
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 07:17 AM
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thats scary...when it was stuck open i imagine it was still being sprayed into the engine, if you were spraying a 75 shot of nitrous because of the malfunction with no added fuel going in i would think you would/were running pretty lean untill you caught onto the problem. Keep an eye on this!!
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 07:39 AM
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Ok I fixed the idle by ReFlashing my current Etune from Osiris. My idle is now at a sweet 750 like normal.

Yes it was scary, the engine wouldnt idle down and was going all crazy, I couldnt hear the hissing over the exhaust. The whole plenum was literally freezing along with the intake tube.
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 10:38 AM
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It's nice to hear that you were able to get your car back to normal again. I've had experience with nitrous being sprayed into the engine (my fault for not setting the voltage right on the TPS module) so I know it can be troublesome and give you grief (mine was a 50 shot at the time).

Also, if you're not at full pressure for nitrous, do NOT use it. You want to be around 950-1050psi. Think about it. The nitrous is supposed to be 1000psi with stock fuel pressure. If you're under the specified psi, then you're spraying less nitrous with the same fuel. That is, you're running rich, when you're not set up to do so. Nitrous can mess up your engine extremely quickly. Don't cut corners like that because you can't control yourself. Plus, you don't want to waste nitrous. The more you use at lower psi, the less you have for the appropriate sprays at 1000 psi. You're only cutting yourself short for more fun with proper bottle pressure.
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 11:05 AM
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ALso ive been setting the car to the drag map with my Osiris capabilities. That map gives it more fuel down low so its probably running WAYYY to rich.

Should I leave it at my 93 octane map when spraying or switch it to the stock map which I believe waaaay to lean with the bolt-ons I have. Maybe with the nitrous at lower pressure(850-900) that would be a little safer??

heres a link to my dyno results before the nitrous, if u scroll down to the bottom of the page theres a dyno run from me on the stock map which is way to lean. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...ipppeeeee.html

Thanks for your help.

Last edited by twitch579; Dec 25, 2008 at 11:19 AM.
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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With nitrous (or any other FI), I believe you should be at 11 for your AFR. I'm not exactly sure what Osiris does to the stock ECU, but as long as it allows the ECU to adjust according to what it senses, you should be fine in your 93 octane map.

Again, rather than trying to BS your way through, stick with the proper bottle pressure. I warned you multiple times already, so whether or not you listen is entirely up to you. Good luck and have fun with nitrous.
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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I have a bottle warmer on order. Im going to hold off using it untill it arrives.
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 06:04 PM
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From: towson
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i run consistant 11.0-11.6 while spraying...bottle press is critical!!! listen to 3-5-0
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 09:18 PM
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I got the 12V bottle warmer. Im pretty new to bottle warmers, I want to have it at 1000psi at all times, dont u have to have it set to a temperature?
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 09:26 PM
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The bottle warmers are better when they are constantly monitored by bottle pressure as temperatures can fluctuate depending on ambient temperatures. So, although both types are available, it's better to to get the ones that senses the bottle pressure.

Search outside of this forum (if you can't find the answer here) and then come back with questions if they're still unanswered. You'll learn so much more that way. Plus, you'll be able to contribute and help out the new members in return.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 07:40 AM
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Well I got a Zex bottle warmer and got it all wired up last night. The housing devlopement that my mom lives in has a runway for people that live there with planes, me and my buddy who has a TT 03 Z on the stock Greddy Tune and usually he pulls me by like 4-5 cars, now its the other way around. Only I get around 2-3 cars on him.

Im not to happy with the Zex bottle warmer, it only get it up to 950psi.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 04:17 PM
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^sounds like your enjoying it like i was.... it was fun dominating the turbo 350z's but yea you wanna make sure all the lines are tightened if you noticed i had thread sealent on every line because of the leak...and that gasket former on the bottle because it would leak whenever it felt like it....
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 06:22 PM
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Now u tell me!!! lol. Was it leaking from the bottle?
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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no just from the line that went into the bottle but once you tighten it there is no leaking anywhere
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 02:29 PM
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From: towson
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i dont like my zex warmer either...its thermostat i feel shuts if off too early and 1000psi is pretty much unreachable. Any suggestions what to replace it with?
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