okay so I've followed every step up to the point to where it says to program the Zex EMU .

this is what the directions say :

1) turn the ignition to ON but dont turn on the car. Okay no problem did that.

2) flip the activation switch to on Position. Did that .

3) Press the button to turn on the Zex box , it should light up RED to indicate it is in learning mode . Did that .... no problem and it does turn on RED.

4) open the throttle blades to WOT for 10 seconds. Okay I cant do that because the throttle blades wont open .

Anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Everything else before that is done correctly but for some reason the blades wont open. They only open if the car is off or if I have the key at the 2 position before the ON in the ignition.

 

ive heard on the z of manually holding the butterfly open on the throttle body to program the box,or ive even heard of people starting the car to program it and holding it wide open or something that seemed very crazy to me... search around if the search is up and running..i did it on my chrysler crossfire the way u explained...one thing though when i first got my kit the tps in the purple box was bad and i had to fix it myself rather than send it back since i had another zex tps lying around from an old car..

 

Also I checked for engine codes and aside from my two catalytic converter codes (cause I have TP's) , I have a P0113 which is "Air Intake high input" , My Stock intakes are off , and I think I did disconnect a sensor from one of the filter boxes. I havent put them back in since I needed to manually open the throttle blades. I dont know if this could be the cause for the blades not wanting to open with ignition ON

 

Are you in first gear? I think i read that is where it has to be to program the box.

 

gear shouldn't matter, never has for me in the past with this kit

 

theres a page on here somewhere that tells codes and what the problem it, if ur intake is not on id assume thats ur problem, and the maf needs to be hooked up and everything or ur gonna have a code

 

Yes I scanned it with my accessport and it was an Air Intake Temp input High reading or something like that. I looked and did see that I had disconnected the MAF harness from the sensor on the passenger side intake box. The intake tubes themselves are off though. I put back on the harness to the MAF sensor and reset my ecu with the Accessport and that cleared the code. but I havent checked yet if it resolved my problem with the blades.

However I forgot to mention that when I put the Ignition to ON , I get a beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep noise coming from the engine bay somewhere even when I have the Zex box turned off. I dont know if this is normal or not since this is the first time I've ever had to turn ignition to ON and look under the hood while the ignition is set to ON.

 

dont really remember but i think the box does make a little beeeep noise, u will hear clicking when the solenoids are working right too..

 

I tracked down where the noise is coming from and its the throttle bodies.

 

Update ... okay holy hell finally. So like I was saying the noise was coming from the throttle bodies. after I had made the TPS resistor wire to yellow tps sensor wire connection I got a loud beeeep noise coming from the throttle body and it would come on each and every single time I turned the key to the ON position and could not open the throttle blade manually . So I took it to the stealership to have it fixed if possible and luckily to my amazement they took the car in even though this was a nitrous kit that I was asking them help with. They undid the connection and redid it "the right way" I was told and had sodered the connections.

At the same time that it was there in the dealership , I took advantage of the recall on the clutch since my car has 50k miles I figured a nice fresh clutch would be nice. After that I was able to switch the key to ON and I wouldnt get the beep noise. So I drove home . Then went to continue with the programming of the Zex box the next day and I went to flip the key to ON and no beep noise, ok so far so good ....I put the key to off and then back to ON again to double check and the beeep noise came back (the car drove normally but the noise always made me worry) , so then I was pissed the hell off And went back to the dealership the next day and then the guy said that he wasn't sure if they even want to take another look at the car cause its not something from the factory that I'm trying to put on . So the guy started giving me this long talk about how bad it is to put anything aftermarket on the cars of today because they are so high tech that anything that doesnt belong on the car's wiring will screw the car up and how in the "real world" as he put it, aftermarket systems are nothing but trouble for the latest cars.

Now I knew that he had a point to a degree but I just couldn't believe that there was no way to make that noise go away completely. I had followed the instructions to the bone and everything so I couldn't understand what was wrong. The Dealership guy said that he would take a look at it if I brought the car back the next day so I said ok.

I ended up just going to a local performance shop that dealt with these systems to take a look at the problem because the dealership guy's "cant do anything for ya" attitude pissed me off. And also because the dealership wasnt going to really dig in to the problem since they were nervous taking my car in in the first place because it was a nitrous kit I was asking help with.

So anyways I left the car with the shop and the guy checked the voltage across both throttle bodies to make sure they were equal, checked the voltage going across the connection and everything checked out fine. The noise he said is a self check test the ecu does because it senses there's something else hooked up to the yellow tps sensor wire so it'll do a self test check and in the process it makes that noise. After the dealership and after I had it checked at the shop, I just get the noise if I try to turn the key to the ON position two times in a row where as after I had done the connection it would do it every single time .

he also finished up programming the zex box and connected the fuel and nitrous lines to the nozzles on the intakes.

I havent gotten a chance yet to try the 75shot since I just got the new clutch aswell so I'm waiting for 3k miles before I try it out. I'll post pics probably tomorrow if it doesnt rain of the engine bay, it came out pretty stealthy and stock looking if you dont know what you're looking for IMO though I still have some work to do to try to hide the nitrous bottle and feed line cause I ran the line inside the car rather than under it because I didnt have a clue of any existing holes I could run it through to get it under the car and I didnt want to drill holes in the trunk so right now its just in plain sight.

 

The white resistor wire should be connected to a green wire. I have an '03 350z w/ the ZEX kit and mine is connected to the green wire. That's probably why it wasn't reading it.