beer and a BUMP!

 

+1
Be a man. Do it.
Getting all of anything to the ground will mostly depend on the rear tires. Sticky drag racing tires aren't all that costly and will last a good while for most people.
250 hp, regardless of how many stages, will be too much for the stock motor to handle. I've ran a best of 12.3 running a 100 whp shot, untuned, with very minimal amount of bolt-ons.
If you don't want progressive, then it looks like you're going to have to go with a 2 stage then.
11s are possible with a good amount of bolt-ons, a good tune, 100 whp shot, and with negative DA. Otherwise, it's pretty much impossible to do on our daily driver Zs. I'm at 12.3 now and I don't see myself getting a 11 sec run even if I get a tune on my current set up, unless I go on a day where I experience negative DA conditions.

BTW, you guys keep mentioning good tires this good tires that, but they're not that expensive and no matter how fast you run, you'll always find tires that can still grip off the line.
For the bare minimum:
-basic nitrous kit (custom or pre-made)
-bottle heater
-1 step colder plugs
-drag slicks on small diameter wheels

With just the above, low 12s will be possible. This will cost less than a grand if you can find some good deals. Of course, that's just the bare minimum and you'd want other things to help you be more consistent and extract a bit more power.
A 100 whp shot will get you some wheel spin in 2nd initially on most street tires, depending on the track prep (or road conditions). If you have good tires with good track prep, then your tires should still hold out even with a 100 whp shot.
I'm not sure how you'll make it "hook," but if you're spraying in 1st, I highly doubt you'll "hook" by any definition.

2.0 or below on street tires are good. With nitrous, you should still be able to hit 2.0 or below, as whatever wheel spin you experience can be overcome by nitrous torque when you do get grip. However, I've spun the entire 1st before on street tires.

 

I was simply stating that a drag oriented tire (slick or DR.....what I consider "good") is going to be an absolute to get into the 11's with nitrous.......at least IMO.

As far as the 100 shot goes and 11's.......I think for the folks in the NE and MW, in the fall and spring, when negative DA's can be had.... 11's are not impossible. It hasn't been done, but that isn't too say it can't........particularly on an HR w/bolt-ons/tune.

I think we generally agree on these things though from the rest of your comments in your post.

 

OP, sorry for kind of hijacking your thread, but most of the above conversation is still relevant to running faster at the 1/4 mile (since max shot size isn't the only thing that matters), right?

BTW, OP, why does the "largest shot on an HR" matter to you? The way I've been drag racing was to set a goal first and then do my best to surpass it. That is, why not just run a safe set up, rather than pushing things to the limits and seeing how far you can get?

For example, I knew 12s were possible with XXX bolt-ons, tune, etc but I wanted to do it with the least amount of mods as possible, without a tune, and on slicks. I got to a point where I was content with what I've achieved then moved on, without spending more money unnecessarily or jeopardizing the safety/reliability of my car. And with nitrous, my goal is to hit low-low 12s on my current set up, as-is.

You and I may have different approaches to modding, though, so I'm not trying to convince you otherwise or anything. I'm just genuinely curious as to why you want to put the largest shot possible in your daily driver.

 

No apology needed, any input is appreciated. Yes, the nitrous for me is about straight line speed, 1/4 mile and such.

I worded it that way for two reasons. One, i'm actually curious if anyone has pushed these motors beyond the normal realm of the 125-150 shot, to see what they hold. Two, I like the people who come in to talk ****, it entertains me .
I'm with you on the try and try again, I did that on the last car from day one. There was no info out there on what a supercharged cobalt motor could take, so I beat the **** outta mine until it broke, fixed what broke, pushed harder. Did that for 3 years. Part of the whole reason I wanted to leave that community is that there were only a small handful of people doing what i did, pushing the car, and there was little out there to learn from, everything was trial and error. I figure, on a platform as well known and widely used as the Z, somebody had to have already done it, and i'd rather have some direction than just be wandering blindly down the path to a rod out the side of the block.

I don't plan to see how much spray I can cram into the car on a daily basis, but I will try to get into the 11's on bottle with reasonably light mods, just to see it done. After that, i'll see how I feel. If I think the car will hold up for a bigger shot and harder driving, maybe I'll aim for an 11.5, maybe lower. Gimme about 6 months and i'll be in the 11's. How deep depends on how well things go for me.

 

11s on any Z33 is a piece of cake, assuming you get a tune for your nitrous shot. Even with a straight 100 whp shot on a DE, with a few mods and slicks, I was able to run a 12.3 in May in TX. If I got a tune for my 100 and went back to the strip on a better day, 11s should be within reach. Anything above a 100 whp + tune will make 11s all too easy. Likewise, HR owners will experience similar results with similar mods, if not a tad faster.

If you're truly wanting to push things to the limit with the largest shot possible on the HR, I'd say set your goal to around 175 whp shot + tune to run around 11.5 or faster. From there, once you reach your goal, bump up the bar and try again.

 

I think that's the plan. I was thinking about it the other night, and I think I'll just push it until it can't give me any more. I'll push it into the 10's if I can

 

Did you decide if you're going to dual-stage or progressive shot it?

I don't know much about progressive controllers, but if you could say, start at 100 and scale it up to redline to 175, I think that'd be fantastic, and probably safer than a straight 175 shot!

 

Dual stage, as I want the car to be streetable on the bottle still. With a big shot and progressive, I only have one power level unless I change jets and adjust the controllers, progressive is wasted on lower power levels anyway. Nice two stage 100-100 or so, I just won't use the second stage on the street. Besides, I already have a basic kit, so that's half of my dual-stage. For a progressive I would need all new hardware and what I have would be useless.

 

That should be fun, assuming the stock HR motor can handle the secondary 100 shot. I'd be iffy if both stages were true 100 whp shots, but it's your engine. Keep us updated on your progress. I'm interested in how everything will turn out.

 

I assume 100hp at the crank, as holley rates thier kits. 46/30 jetting for a 100 shot, well, not on these cars with the dual TB, but thats the idea.

I'll bring the second stage on at a higher rpm to soften the torque hit, it should be just fine. I'll also have Osiris by that point, there is a lot you can do via timing to soften the blow on the rods if you have full map control. I've done it before