Alberto-

If you look up, that was not a build sheet. I was asking him if he was planning on doing ANY of the listed mods. And that was before I even knew his budget. I just wanted to get him thinking about some of the different things that folks going to the strip can see advantages from.

I wasn't saying that he needed all of those, or that it was to be combined into a single build - but that he needed to read up on all of those items and see what was in his budget and would make sense. That list was meant as a place for him to start reading and learning.

Putting together the correct combination for his build shouldn't happen until he knows what he wants, and understands the costs, advantages, disadvantages, and options/combinations that will match up to his budget and goals.

 

95% of this^^^^^^post, I don't understand a word. From the part I did understand.

"BTW it way way more fun racing my mustang @ 10.80 .when I went low 9s it turned into work"

I don't believe A word of that^^^^^^^^. Not a word!!!!!

 

That is going to be an issue for you.

No sense spending money on a build for the power if you're not interested in a dedicated tire/wheel combo to put it to the ground. If you're stuck on the big, heavy 19" wheels and no slicks, you might be best off with a 50 or 75 shot - whatever you can run and still get traction.

 

Sorry if my grammar or sentence prep. isnt good enough for you.

having a car that doesnt break or need tuning every pass is waaaayyyy better. i had bad results. maybe you have an unlimited budget where you can afford to keep going faster with no limits. not the case for me. my car, built properly, had issues. the converter. the tune. fouling plugs, getting loose @ 330 and tagging the wall (which totaled my car). it was more fun to drive to the track. race a bit and then drive home. Fact is when you go for a low number or high MPH you let it all hang out. that is where **** breaks. Im not discrediting mistakes because certainly i make them.

You may find there is more people that enjoyed racing more when it was easy. All im looking for is a good idea and to see what people are doing. im looking for what works and what doesnt. this isnt a mustang suspension and an lsx build which i am used to. i know less about these then any other car i have touched.

alberto for sake of conversation, how much seat time did that 12.0 take? seems like that is great results comparing posted results on here.

 

i would spend more time messing around with my buddies on saturday night on 95 then anything else.

i hear you guys about traction. i will def. research what the masses are doing that works well. its too bad the 19's are out. there is a bunch of guys running fast mustangs on 18's. it is an eye catcher when it happens.

 

I have my own problems with spelling/grammer, so let's get to the meat of this. I'm sure there are turbo mustangs, but the only mustangs I ever saw were "supercharged". The reason for that is because many came that way from the factory & the ones that didn't had a large pool of supercharges to pick from, install. That's logical. I'm pretty sure going turbo would involve much, much more money, which doesn't look like you have.
Second your statement of doing 10.80's then going LOW 9s just doesn't pass the smell test.
Third is your knowledge, or lack off it. Not understanding traction vs et's, or differentials & other stuff, makes me think you are talking about cars you saw at the drag strips, and you just adapted/presented them as your own

500whp using spray, with an 03 137k car??
Do you have any idea how much money it would cost to build an engine, trans, clutch, nitro set up, susp. headers wheels/tires etc, etc, all the other crap????

$20k + Someone with a just a little experience would know that. Just be honest, & I'm sure you'll get alot of help here.

 

no i really dont have an idea on the cost. kinda where this thread started. yes you know nothing of mustangs. only a few were factory supercharged. the turbo kits rival the cost of blowers now.

it cost far far less to do a mustang then the nissan. you would need to do some research. we dont have to break balles here or say who knows what but an lq4 88mm and a powerglide will trap 150+. a drag suspension for a mustang cost 900 dollars and 80 for mounts that perfectly aligh the drivetrain. FACT - all of these things exist in abundance which drives the cost down. take a look at yellowbullet or corral and you will find this 100 time over.

@ 10k build in a mustang will net a fast et. @ 10k build on a nissan will get you a ****ing pepboys sticker. Ok so can i get back to learnign the 350 or are you going to continue to look for things wrong?

if you read eariler post the question was raised because i do infact see the need to rebuild my engine. i have some resources.

low 10.8 was a 302 built with a pony down perfornace 70mm turbo system, upr drag suspension, et streets on draglites. tuned at JPC.

9.43 @151 was a piston and rods lq4, ls3 heads, truck manifolds with crossover. precision 88 and a prosystems blow thru carb(tuned by me). same suspension but added cage and chute. less interior and a ET drag tire 28" tall. Yes i under how important your 60 ft. correlates to your low et. i under stand suspension tuning as it related to a 4link, pinion angle and instant center. i under stand how weigh distrubution works. I understand the mechanics of standing still and then moving forward.

so enough apples to oranges. i just want to know or get some GOOD input on how to build the nissan. 6K doesnt do an engine swap. even when i have a suitable drivetrain. i want to learn about N02.

 

My friend is a better than average driver but not IMO "awesome"

He did it on ET streets though, but that 12.0 was his 1st pass down the track, on N20 and slicks EVER, he had about 4 runs NA on slicks to get a feel for it.

Decent driving, a nasty launch and some skill > power numbers any day.

For comparison he ran 13.4-13.7 NA on slicks with his bolt-ons so that's not all that great but on N20 and a slick if you have the clutch and the desire VQ's will jump out of the hole making 11's easy IMO.

Here is his video, you can hear the lazy powershifts NA, he eventually got better but never went back to the track. You can see the times get slower as it got warmer and his bottle pressure dropped, he didn't even have a heater, straight budget "build" that would embarrass 95% of owners on here trying to give advice.

Sparkle-even mentioning shorter gears on an N20 drag setup isn't even required man lol, it doesn't work.

 

N20 is not for you if you want to be doing highway pulls.

If I was setting up a Z on a "budget" to ***** people in, you need the following for an almost unbeatable 1/8 car....

Driver. Tire. Clutch. N20

Don't run anyone past the 1/4, you shouldn't lose much around here, including to most clowns around here in the common AWD cars who cant launch.

 

so looks like i will be meeting with hills garage in baltimore to rebuild my engine.

going to do a few things before nitrous. pistons rods head studs an a few other things. probably going to go with 11.5 cr pistons. @137 k miles its due anyhow.