Who sells the cheapest nitrous kits
#21
Originally posted by Anthony Mantovani
Is it safe to say I won't need a dyno to check A/F ratios as long as I am running a 75 shot? But if I go to 100-150 than I should get one?
Is it safe to say I won't need a dyno to check A/F ratios as long as I am running a 75 shot? But if I go to 100-150 than I should get one?
Last thing after 75rwhp I would start to retard ur timing or your motor could boom
#22
with nitrous, nothing is safe unless you make sure man. i'd dyno at a 50 shot and then go up to a 75 shot if i were you. i might be too carefull, but i cant afford a blown up engine. the $100 or so extra for a dyno are worth the piece of mind.
i did change the plugs for my 75 shot. i used the ngk 1 step colder copper plugs. i sold those a while back. i have 2 step colder denso irridiums in the engine now. thats because im planning on moving up to a 125 shot within the next week or 2. but you do need 1 step colder for a 75 shot. 100+ shot and you should start thinking about 2 step colder. dont get platinum plugs. either copper or irridium for nitrous use.
nx kits dont requre time retarding unless your going direct port.
i did change the plugs for my 75 shot. i used the ngk 1 step colder copper plugs. i sold those a while back. i have 2 step colder denso irridiums in the engine now. thats because im planning on moving up to a 125 shot within the next week or 2. but you do need 1 step colder for a 75 shot. 100+ shot and you should start thinking about 2 step colder. dont get platinum plugs. either copper or irridium for nitrous use.
nx kits dont requre time retarding unless your going direct port.
Last edited by MySunset350Z; 04-13-2004 at 02:39 PM.
#23
Thanks guys for all the help and info, its much appreciated, I'll keep you posted on how things work out, I won't be able to get it installed until May. They are swamped with work. I was hoping to have it installed for Atco on April 25, but seems as though I'll be there with a stock Z...oh well, it should be fun anyway. BTW what times can I expect with a 75 shot...my guess would be a very low 13 at around 110mph...could this setup get the Z in the 12's? I wouldn't think so... what times were you running with this kit.
#24
Originally posted by MySunset350Z
with nitrous, nothing is safe unless you make sure man. i'd dyno at a 50 shot and then go up to a 75 shot if i were you. i might be too carefull, but i cant afford a blown up engine. the $100 or so extra for a dyno are worth the piece of mind.
i did change the plugs for my 75 shot. i used the ngk 1 step colder copper plugs. i sold those a while back. i have 2 step colder denso irridiums in the engine now. thats because im planning on moving up to a 125 shot within the next week or 2. but you do need 1 step colder for a 75 shot. 100+ shot and you should start thinking about 2 step colder. dont get platinum plugs. either copper or irridium for nitrous use.
nx kits dont requre time retarding unless your going direct port.
with nitrous, nothing is safe unless you make sure man. i'd dyno at a 50 shot and then go up to a 75 shot if i were you. i might be too carefull, but i cant afford a blown up engine. the $100 or so extra for a dyno are worth the piece of mind.
i did change the plugs for my 75 shot. i used the ngk 1 step colder copper plugs. i sold those a while back. i have 2 step colder denso irridiums in the engine now. thats because im planning on moving up to a 125 shot within the next week or 2. but you do need 1 step colder for a 75 shot. 100+ shot and you should start thinking about 2 step colder. dont get platinum plugs. either copper or irridium for nitrous use.
nx kits dont requre time retarding unless your going direct port.
#25
check your pms anthony.
the reason why i speak of nx and not other nitrous brands is because i have never dealt with other brands. for one, zex has a control box. i have no idea whats its for, thats why i dont talk about zex. there is no better advice then calling up the company themeselves and getting direct info from them. during the install, the directions said "one of the great things about using nx is that there is no need to do any time retarding"......etc. i even called them up to double check with them. they were able to give me 350z specific jetting sizes not listed in the directions, and told me that "NO" there is no need for any time retarding.
nx says that you must use colder pulgs and u must use 92+ octane when on nitrous. with nx, those 2 things are the only necessary precautions you will need for low end hp shots. bro, i've done my homework before installing all this stuff. call up nx and ask them directly.
the reason why i speak of nx and not other nitrous brands is because i have never dealt with other brands. for one, zex has a control box. i have no idea whats its for, thats why i dont talk about zex. there is no better advice then calling up the company themeselves and getting direct info from them. during the install, the directions said "one of the great things about using nx is that there is no need to do any time retarding"......etc. i even called them up to double check with them. they were able to give me 350z specific jetting sizes not listed in the directions, and told me that "NO" there is no need for any time retarding.
nx says that you must use colder pulgs and u must use 92+ octane when on nitrous. with nx, those 2 things are the only necessary precautions you will need for low end hp shots. bro, i've done my homework before installing all this stuff. call up nx and ask them directly.
#27
I know bro im just trying to ram some info into you. Zex control box is just a enclosed solanoid and TPS unit.
Timing adjustments are only required when your combustion chamber reaches a certain point of heat creating PRE-INGNITION. Yes Colder plugs help as they are more resistant to heat and yes higher octane fuel is more resistant to a out of control explosion, high octane fuel burns slower creating less of a chance for PRE-INGNITION (DETONATION)........these are all great and are good things to do as a precaution to pre-ignition, regardless of all these precautions when the combustion chamber gets to heat range higher than stock timing can handle, you will get detonation resulting in a blown motor. I have been told at around 80-100rwhp, not crank hp, you are on the threshold of this point. The main thing with the 350Z ECU is that it advances ignition timing at 6,000rpm like 6-7 degrees. That is where you will run into problems The ECU dosent advance in big lumps until it hits 6,000rpm and then bam, 6-7 degrees. ATI's motors that have blown up are mainly due to no timing being pulled. That is why all smart ATI owners are running J&S boxes to retard timing, that is why VORTECH pulls timing out 6 degrees at redline. WET Nitrous kits are by far the most unpredictable form of F/I.......regardless if its nitrous or a blower, the same heat is created at the same point of the RWHP its making assuming A/F ratios are the same. You may get lucky and not have a problem but you may not, you are on the threshold esp with your agressiveness in regards to A/F ratios........I just want to make you well aware of the facts..........I truly am not trying to downplay your knowledge as I can tell you have a ton of it, these are just the facts i have learned from people i respect. The people who know the facts are the smart people, the ones that think they know the facts are the dumb ones. All I ask sunset is for you to do a little investigating for yourself, ask people what I have told you, .........if they know what they are talking about they will agree.
PEAS SUNSET!!!!!
PM if you want.
-Kevin
Timing adjustments are only required when your combustion chamber reaches a certain point of heat creating PRE-INGNITION. Yes Colder plugs help as they are more resistant to heat and yes higher octane fuel is more resistant to a out of control explosion, high octane fuel burns slower creating less of a chance for PRE-INGNITION (DETONATION)........these are all great and are good things to do as a precaution to pre-ignition, regardless of all these precautions when the combustion chamber gets to heat range higher than stock timing can handle, you will get detonation resulting in a blown motor. I have been told at around 80-100rwhp, not crank hp, you are on the threshold of this point. The main thing with the 350Z ECU is that it advances ignition timing at 6,000rpm like 6-7 degrees. That is where you will run into problems The ECU dosent advance in big lumps until it hits 6,000rpm and then bam, 6-7 degrees. ATI's motors that have blown up are mainly due to no timing being pulled. That is why all smart ATI owners are running J&S boxes to retard timing, that is why VORTECH pulls timing out 6 degrees at redline. WET Nitrous kits are by far the most unpredictable form of F/I.......regardless if its nitrous or a blower, the same heat is created at the same point of the RWHP its making assuming A/F ratios are the same. You may get lucky and not have a problem but you may not, you are on the threshold esp with your agressiveness in regards to A/F ratios........I just want to make you well aware of the facts..........I truly am not trying to downplay your knowledge as I can tell you have a ton of it, these are just the facts i have learned from people i respect. The people who know the facts are the smart people, the ones that think they know the facts are the dumb ones. All I ask sunset is for you to do a little investigating for yourself, ask people what I have told you, .........if they know what they are talking about they will agree.
PEAS SUNSET!!!!!
PM if you want.
-Kevin
#28
fuel supply line?
Originally posted by fluidz
well I misunderstood you, i thought you said mount the bottle in the car sideways like along the strut bar......LOL..........I stand corrected that you are correct. Mis understood, i thought you where mis-informing peeps, its cool.......but you are incorrect about A/F ratios..........I promise you that... but maybe with a automatic the A/F ratios have to run leaner to keep up...LOL...J/K.....its cool...... ...I had to say it!!!!
well I misunderstood you, i thought you said mount the bottle in the car sideways like along the strut bar......LOL..........I stand corrected that you are correct. Mis understood, i thought you where mis-informing peeps, its cool.......but you are incorrect about A/F ratios..........I promise you that... but maybe with a automatic the A/F ratios have to run leaner to keep up...LOL...J/K.....its cool...... ...I had to say it!!!!
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