I hope the link works.
This is my G at the dyno, 1st pull was gas, 2 & 3rd on N2O.
copy & paste
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linky no worky

 

Try this one

 

Motor sounds good when spraying. That last pull was done in 4th? I always dyno higher in 5th. What do you dyno N/A?

 

He puts around 258 N/A... his car pulls very hard... he is the fastest G35 in the Island

 

Great HP numbers! Do you have any torque info to share.

The only thing is your A/F ratio seems way off, extremely lean if I am reading the graphs correctly. Looks like you were already running way lean with your other mods without the nitrous. Then both runs with the nitrous looked extremely lean, or am I not seeing it correctly.

I am running a tiny bit lean with my 150-shot (crank) zex, I am running 64N 36F, I am going to up the fuel to 38 or maybe even 39 to be safe.

Be careful out there. No sense having the fastest car on the island if it only lasts several months.

 

dam pretty dam good!

 

Thanks for the advice,

Yes it was lean on the runs, after that I went from 43f to 46f and I upgraded the fuel pump with the wal-255. I have made over 30 passes on that setting already and everything seems to be fine.

I didn't pay to much att to the torque readings because I thought they were off, the dyno reading were hitting the 438tq mark which I think it was too high.

BTW I had 63N 38F in my car before and it was good for a 110whp
and the A/F was in the low 13 range.

 

Got to love the nitrous. =)

 

actually your torque doesnt sound off. sounds about right. it could be a bit higher even and it would still be ok.

nitrous and crazy torque go hand in hand.

by the way, what size shot are you running?

 

ZEX 73N & 46F shot = 145whp

 

Do you have to be concerned about your retard timing when you're pushing 405whp? If so, what are you doing to address the issue?

 

Not really, I'm not the only one pushing over 400 w/o touching the ignition. Two steps colder on the plugs do the job

 

150 shot is SICK!!! are you configured for stage 2, 50 shot at launch and 100 afterwards?

 

stage 1:
get some drag radial for the rear and a jwt clutch
stage 2:
150 n2o shot with a window switch

not to be a smart ***, but for street use a 150 shot will not set your rear wheels on a spin unles you're in first gear. If you dyno tune your n2o shot for a safe A/F it becomes very reliable. I have over 100 passes on the bottle in my G w/o any malfunction except for the clutch.

BTW, no I don't have a two stage system, I find no need for it. A window switch set to close at no less than 3k is good enough to keep the tracktion on 275 35 19" tires.

 

I'm can speak for this G also and the car don't slip if you roll in second gear... I put the NX system last week (I'm Back ) and with 275/35-19 is enough to handle a roll in second gear, but for the track is better with at least a drag radials

 

I notice you both upgraded flywheel and clutch. Is this optional when spraying?

 

When you reach 350+ rwhp the stock clutch eventually start to slip... it just depend of what kind of HP you want in your Z or G

 

actually the clutch is rated at torque ratings. With nitrous the torque is sometimes much more than HP.

I am running the stock clutch with 175-shot (crank, estimated) I just launch, the nitrous controller waits a second or so before kicking in so I can hook up, then sprays about 1/4 the shot. When I shift into second it build from 1/2 - 3/4. After that, each gear I shift into, I start out at 3/4 and quickly work my way up to the full shot. This allows me to do several things.

1. Use my stock clutch. I only slip the clutch if I use a full shot in first or use the full shot the second I shift into second.
2. actually use nitrous in first gear without spinning the tires
3. saves my rod bearings and valve train by not just going from no nitrous to full shot. That really puts crazy stress on the motor.
4. I have actually lowered my ET's going with this approach.

 

Sounds interesting and probably easier on the motor. What kind of times are you running? NX , NOS, or ZEX ?