Louisiana Z/Import cookout April 29th *Lakefront*
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It was a fun event, but it took too damn long to get started. I co-drove Jacob's Z in BSP. He improved throughout the night, but still has to learn throttle modulation. You'll get there haha.
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right now I'm
F: 0
R: -1.7
I had lots of problems with oversteer, but I'm going to adjust my sways and hopefully fix that (They are currently on max stiff)
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Setup is tricky, especially if you're daily driving the car. For autoX, you would want as much camber in the front as you could get, -2 or more. Being in the stock class, I can't change that anyway so I have to make up for it in other ways. I have a stiffer front sway to help with understeer and stiffer front shocks (adjustable, i.e. stiff at the autox, soft on the street).
You probably want to use a softest setting on the rear sway.
Here's a neat guide to suspension tuning that illustrates what you can change and what effect it will have.
UNDERSTEER / OVERSTEER TUNING
By STEF SCHEEPERS
If you have to ask "what is understeer / oversteer?", it’s quite simple: if you approach a fast bend in the road, turn the wheel, but the car just plough straight on into a ditch, then you suffer from understeer. If you leave the same bend spinning backwards into the ditch, then you suffer from oversteer. Of course oversteer can easily be provoked when there is an idiot at the wheel, so don’t always blame the car.
For those of you who understand your car’s dynamics well enough not to make the typical beginner’s mistakes that will upset the handling, here is a list of changes that will guide you to tune your suspension to a neutral-steer for superior high-performance handling.
DECREASE UNDERSTEER..... CORRECTION.....DECREASE OVERSTEER
higher pressure........................tire pressure - front......................lower pressure
larger contact area....................tire section - front...............smaller contact area
more negative.........................wheel camber - front.......................more positive
softer............................................ springs - front.........................................stiffer
thinner (softer).............................sway bar - front.........................thicker (stiffer)
larger...........................................spoiler - front.......................................smaller
lower pressure.........................tire pressure - rear.....................higher pressure
smaller contact area.................tire section - rear..................larger contact area
more positive.........................wheel camber - rear......................more negative
stiffer........................................... .springs - rear.........................................softer
thicker (stiffer).............................sway bar - rear.........................thinner (softer)
smaller..........................................spoiler - rear........................................larger
weight bias rearward................weight distribution..............weight bias forward
A few words of warning: if you are unsure about what you are doing, rather get help from an experienced person. Make your changes in small increments and first test the result in an open area where you can do little harm (like at one of our slaloms). Rather tune towards neutral-understeer, since an oversteering car is quite a dangerous beast that needs a fast hand to catch it. Have fun.
You probably want to use a softest setting on the rear sway.
Here's a neat guide to suspension tuning that illustrates what you can change and what effect it will have.
UNDERSTEER / OVERSTEER TUNING
By STEF SCHEEPERS
If you have to ask "what is understeer / oversteer?", it’s quite simple: if you approach a fast bend in the road, turn the wheel, but the car just plough straight on into a ditch, then you suffer from understeer. If you leave the same bend spinning backwards into the ditch, then you suffer from oversteer. Of course oversteer can easily be provoked when there is an idiot at the wheel, so don’t always blame the car.
For those of you who understand your car’s dynamics well enough not to make the typical beginner’s mistakes that will upset the handling, here is a list of changes that will guide you to tune your suspension to a neutral-steer for superior high-performance handling.
DECREASE UNDERSTEER..... CORRECTION.....DECREASE OVERSTEER
higher pressure........................tire pressure - front......................lower pressure
larger contact area....................tire section - front...............smaller contact area
more negative.........................wheel camber - front.......................more positive
softer............................................ springs - front.........................................stiffer
thinner (softer).............................sway bar - front.........................thicker (stiffer)
larger...........................................spoiler - front.......................................smaller
lower pressure.........................tire pressure - rear.....................higher pressure
smaller contact area.................tire section - rear..................larger contact area
more positive.........................wheel camber - rear......................more negative
stiffer........................................... .springs - rear.........................................softer
thicker (stiffer).............................sway bar - rear.........................thinner (softer)
smaller..........................................spoiler - rear........................................larger
weight bias rearward................weight distribution..............weight bias forward
A few words of warning: if you are unsure about what you are doing, rather get help from an experienced person. Make your changes in small increments and first test the result in an open area where you can do little harm (like at one of our slaloms). Rather tune towards neutral-understeer, since an oversteering car is quite a dangerous beast that needs a fast hand to catch it. Have fun.
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 06-21-2009 at 01:17 PM.
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Yea I'm pretty sure I messed up when I requested 0 in the front.
I still have street tires, but its not my daily.
I'll adjust the sways from stiffest to the middle settings and up the camber to -2.0/-2.5 if possible, and go from there.
Thanks for all the tips
I still have street tires, but its not my daily.
I'll adjust the sways from stiffest to the middle settings and up the camber to -2.0/-2.5 if possible, and go from there.
Thanks for all the tips
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Trent - the biggest problem with lots of negative camber on a daily driver is the excessive wear on the tires. If it's a track/autox car, then you can live with lots of camber and wear is not so much a concern because of the low mileage you put on the car. If you DD it, then you'll eat tires quickly just driving it around town.
I've seen guys drive cars (not Z's necessarily) on the street with -1 to -1.5º of camber up front then get to the autox and adjust the front up to -2.5 to -3º. After then event, they have to set it back.
I've seen guys drive cars (not Z's necessarily) on the street with -1 to -1.5º of camber up front then get to the autox and adjust the front up to -2.5 to -3º. After then event, they have to set it back.
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Damn Shawn you look like you got ****ed up!!
Just got home from my newbie autox. Had a lot of fun. A lot of Z's were there, but I don't know what anyone looks like so I didn't get to meet anyone
or say hi. Was HOT
Big thanks to Dave for sticking around until 11 to help me out.
Just got home from my newbie autox. Had a lot of fun. A lot of Z's were there, but I don't know what anyone looks like so I didn't get to meet anyone
![Frown](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Big thanks to Dave for sticking around until 11 to help me out.
your car is so sexy btw haha wish i could have heard the waste gate more!! more throttle!!! =)