Spork

iTrader: (6)

Aaron, Steve, or anyone else... Please help meeee


https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....30#post5969430

Spork

iTrader: (6)

Pics from the Duluth meet. https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....51#post5969451

blueVQ

iTrader: (2)

dude im havin some issues with mine too not very often but sometimes when i've been drivin in town for a while my pedal doesn't wanna spring back hard all the way , the last part of it is just limp, still drives and shifts fine though, but i think you and me both just need to check out the clutch cylinders, most likely the master which is the one attaced to the pedal, just look under there and see if it's leaking , prob not if ur fluid's good i might just replace mine just too be safe they usually run about 80 to 100 bucks for a master for most cars and the slaves are cheaper

Spork

iTrader: (6)

Damn man. I just hope it's nothing big. I plan on buying either the ACT fly/clutch or JWT fly/clutch combo to replace my clutch in a while.

|| Vitty ||

I know some people had reported the pedal not springing back all the way when they had done the clutch pedal mod to shorten up the distance the pedal had to be pushed. There is a threaded metal rod the clutch is attached to and turning it one way brings the pedal closer to the floor, the other way makes it go further from the floor. When they had brought it too close to the floor they reported the pedal not popping back up all the way.

blueVQ

iTrader: (2)

yah i was gonna check that too all that does is adjust's where u want your clutch to release close or far from the floor i think i'm ok there because mine releases pretty close to the top already , maybe i'll try adjusting it out a little more, ben it could also be that you just got some air in the lines and need to bleed your clutch , thanks for the heads up Vitty i'll check that out too it's just wierd because it only does it sometimes

SmoothZ

iTrader: (13)

Spork

iTrader: (6)

My clutch pedal is stock and untouched.
I'll check the fluid, and maybe I'll bleed some.
Aaron was directing me towards throwout bearing or pressure plate problems. I'm at 67k, and the clutch has been slipping at certain times and has gotten a lot softer. I think it's time to buy a new clutch.

silverbullet_Z

iTrader: (3)

get the ATS twin carbon disc clutch, comes with a lightened flywheel and only costs $2100

Spork

iTrader: (6)

I think I'll be going ACT or JWT

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

The ATS would be complete overkill for your situation although it is a nice clutch.

I did not like the JWT setup I drove. I would stick to an oem replacement exedy or ACT

silverbullet_Z

iTrader: (3)

hey aaron have you ever heard anything about the Okada projects plasma direct coils??

http://www.jscspeed.com/350z/engine/...sma_direct.htm

Spork

iTrader: (6)

Aaron, why didn't you like the JWT setup?

I got to drive Steve's ACT setup and I loved that.
Speaking of that... Steve, PM me with pricing of the perfect ACT streetlite and ACT clutch combo.

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

engagement point and modulation.

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

never heard anything in particular about those, but have heard our coils are plenty strong. I can't see those being worth a grand

|| Vitty ||

I've read a couple posts that the nut that tightens the adjustment rod on the clutch pedal has come loose just from everyday driving. Worth checking out anyways. From the sounds of it you need a new clutch though

Spork

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, my clutch had been slipping some anyway, so I kinda figured it'd be something clutch related.

So Aaron... ACT>JWT? Steve, you agree?

sw150

iTrader: (9)

I've never driven a car with the jwt but I love my act

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

JWT is garbage IMHO. The pedal feel is horrible and the engagement is on the floor low.

If you liked your stocker, just get a replacement oem exedy.

blueVQ

iTrader: (2)

ya ben from the sounds of it if it was slipping already then it's prob. time for a new clutch , outch, sorry dude! and vitty, now don't quote me on the z's but all of the other clutch cylinders i've done the adjustment nut can't loosen while driving, it's attached to the pedal with a pin and you have to pull the pin which disconects it from the pedal before that nut can even spin, like i said not sure on z's but that's all the other ones iv'e done anyway,