Just wondering if anyone is interested to trade their Asuka CF hatch for my cusom seibon one.

Straight up trade.
CF seibon, zero sun fade, condition 9/10 no nics no cracks
perfect fitment
Custom lexan window with custom aluminum reinforcement. custom vynile suround. Silicone sealed and properly done so the lexan does not bow at the bolt locations. condition of lexan is 8/10 has minor scratches that buff out with headlight compound.

super light, around 15-19lb only!!!! can be held with finger tip
this is the second best weight reduction after swapping doors.

 

Wow. That is definitely an eye catcher.
However I think you meant to post this here:https://my350z.com/forum/north-east-marketplace-521/

 

i def saw your car on i95 southbound maybe 2 months ago

 

if you find an asuka trunk let me know

also, can you post more details on the lexan install?

just snagged a vis trunk cheap0

 

^+1 on details about the lexan install, I have been meaning to ask you that for a long time. How does the bracing work or you? I've been contemplating whether I should brace from the inside as well as the outside. Is silicone all you used to get it to seal? and is the Corbeau vinyl removable?

 

I will go over the bracing some time Thursday. It is not what you think, when you think about bracing it. The Lexan cutting and bolting was tricky also. I will go over the way I did it. Should save you guys that DIY a lot of time since you will bypass my fails.

 

Dang, wish you were selling.

 

HOW TO LEXAN

items needed

1/4" lexan sheet
http://shop.a1racing.com/lexan.aspx#sf
1/4" bolts with self tightening nuts (important) hex heads is my preference
ordinary use silicone sealant (same stuff you use for around the house)
some vynil wrap
some aluminum "L" rods preferebly 1/2"x1/2", you get these at lowes

Tools

dremel
drill
hex wrench
sand paper
patiance


So we are already super lucky that our back windshield is reletively flat. first thing you want to do is lay a sheet of paper on your stock hatch with glass and draw an outline of the glass. You can also use your aftermarket hatch for this but it will be harder. remember you do not want to be 100% edge to edge on the size of the glass. you want to shave 1/8" off all around. I do this by just cutting on inside of the line.

Once you get your template trace over it onto the lexan. then use a dremel to cut it out. start at the top edge since the top of the glass is 100% straight. once you cut out the lexan, use the sand paper to give it a nice beed edge. do not use the sandpaper free hand you will scratch the surface. tape it on a block of wood like a file and just do the edges.

Now you want to lay the lexan onto the new hatch. Tape ONLY the middle top part on to the hatch. you want it to be 1/16-1/8" gap on the bottom and the left/right side. Top has to be flush! This is an important step. sand and recut if need be. The 4x8 sheet gives u 2 attempts to make this.

Once you are satisfied. slowly, I MEAN REAL SLOW, use the highest RPM settign on your drill and drill out 1/4" holes 5-6" apart as I did. Look at my pics for reference. Beleive it or not this is the only places you can drill. so do not try to get fancy and do your own drill locations. it is because of the underside of the hatch. you will understand when you look at the underside and my drill locations. I went 3/4" from the top and 1/2" from the bot and right/left side. Start from the top middle. I started 1 directly in the middle. after you drill each one imedietly put your bolt and nut on but do not tighten.

Keep drilling and bolting from the top going outwards to the sides. Then you want to do the BOTTOM middle to the sides. DO NOT do right/left edges before bot. with each bolt you are flexing the lexan to curve. Once you are finished remove the lexan.

Now I used some vinyl to wrap the edges and make a border specially on the 8" top. The reason for this is it will look like poop with the silicone and actually seing the lip and edges is kind of sub-par in my opinion. So go ahead and vynil it up, trust me this step will make it look 10000x better.

now place a beed os silicone around and bolt on the lexan. You so not want to tighten the bolts ahrd at all. It is important you get the bolts with the rubber stop built in them. this will prevent them from geting loos. Just fasten the lexan there is no need to tighten it at all jsut make sure it stays in place. the silicone when it dries will be what holds it in and the bolts anchore it down. Remember lexan flexes and expands. So by tightening it and giving it no give you will end up having a warped or cracked lexan.

Now onto the bracing. If you did not know you do not actuall brace the lexan itself. You make the frame more that is bolted onto more rigid hence stretching the lexan like a drum, preventing it from flexing. Before I braced it I could not go more then 60mph with the windowes down w/o the fear of my hatch getting ripped off. Now that I have added 2 braces it has passed the 120mph wind test. All you do is get the aluminum rods and attache them to the bolts you used to hold in the lexan. When doing this remember you want the rods to be pushing OUT and not pulling in. This is improtant. By adding this 2 supports I elimenated the flex that accured in the middle vary easilly. aluminum is easy to cut and drill to and CHEAP so keep testing. I originally had 5 rods, and it made it super stiff and worked great but I like the cleaner 2 rod look. You can do how ever many you want but just remember DO NOT bolt the rod into the lexan, do not glue it onto the lexan, do not do anything to it, that is not how it works.

Im like rage typing at work so give me a break, hope this helps.

In the end you will spend about 200-300 and a good full afternoone.

 

hmmm very tempting deal

 

I have an asuka hatch on the hill climb project...Kinda tempting

 

How about I trade RDZ for his asuka for my OEM and Ill give you the asuka for your seibon?

 

^me and muzzy already traded hatches

he has my asuka and i have his seibon