When do you put your aftermarket rims on??
It will save my back
I usually wait until April to throw my summers on. It really depends on the temps and how cold or warm things are. Every year is different. A friend of mine has a good rule for this. He waits until his town does the spring street sweet which is usually in mid to late April. His built '80 Trans Am comes out of hiding the next day. Mean classic.
I'm having trouble resisting....but they still haven't swept the roads around here and I see some light snow (meaning more ridiculous road cinders) in the extended forecast....so the brand new Volks probably won't go on until April at this point.
Decided yesterday that I was going to put on my stock wheels w/ RE040's (OEM setup) as a transition for the next few weeks, because I can't stand driving on winter tires anymore but the roads still have a lot of salt and cinders so I don't want to use my Volks yet. Well I went to remove the lug nuts on the rear wheels and just about herniated myself and still didn't get them to budge. The dickwads at the dealership must have over-torqued them two weeks ago after they did my rear brake pads. I know what 80-90 lb-ft feels like and I know that it only takes me a little bit of strain to break it loose. These things felt like the tire iron was going to bend. Meanwhile my front lug nuts, which were tightened and re-tightened to proper seating torque by me, came off with no problem. Man it pissed me off. So I am going back to the dealer this afternoon to have them break torque and re-tighten to the proper level, so that I can swap the wheels out tonight.
End rant...but it's a word of warning to anyone else out there who has their car serviced at a ship or dealership...it might be worth specifically asking them to torque the lug nuts to the proper spec as listed in the owner's manual so that you can get them off by hand later. The point I made to them was that if I get a flat tire and am stuck having to change a tire on the side of the road and the lug nuts are torque to 3 million lb-ft, then I'm stuff calling a tow truck because the tech at the dealer's shop can't read a torque spec.
In reality, I think they overtorque them because when they are torqued to spec you are supposed to check and re-torque if necessary after 25 miles of driving (or something like that), and the average person will not perform this necessary safety step so the dealer does not want to be responsible for someone's wheel falling off at 70 mph.
ok, now end rant.
EDIT: I also don't think it's my responsibility to go out and buy a $100+ 1/2" impact wrench and $300+ compressor to support it just because they are "going into business for themselves" on the lugnut seating torque.
End rant...but it's a word of warning to anyone else out there who has their car serviced at a ship or dealership...it might be worth specifically asking them to torque the lug nuts to the proper spec as listed in the owner's manual so that you can get them off by hand later. The point I made to them was that if I get a flat tire and am stuck having to change a tire on the side of the road and the lug nuts are torque to 3 million lb-ft, then I'm stuff calling a tow truck because the tech at the dealer's shop can't read a torque spec.
In reality, I think they overtorque them because when they are torqued to spec you are supposed to check and re-torque if necessary after 25 miles of driving (or something like that), and the average person will not perform this necessary safety step so the dealer does not want to be responsible for someone's wheel falling off at 70 mph.
ok, now end rant.
EDIT: I also don't think it's my responsibility to go out and buy a $100+ 1/2" impact wrench and $300+ compressor to support it just because they are "going into business for themselves" on the lugnut seating torque.
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