Navy561

ok so i push my pedal all the way to the floor and when it comes back up it stops with about one inch of movement left....right b4 the little black switch it hits like it has something causing resistance...and i have to lift it up with my foot and it will just jump to full extension back to its home position but the switch is soft to the touch like i can move it without any hard pressure...i have max clutch fluid...anyone got any ideas as to what it might be?

Mike_G

iTrader: (3)

Slave cylinder is shot...

Raybrant

iTrader: (16)

I had the same problem, took it to the dealership and they said that it was the slave cylinder as well. They wanted $300 to replace it before labor charges.

I gave them the finger and asked for my car back. Paid them the $114 for "looking at it". When I got my car back, the pedal was fine up until a couple of days ago where it started to act up again.

Navy561

how much was it to replace it not throught the dealer?

Raybrant

iTrader: (16)

The slave cylinder goes for around $60. It's recommended to replace both the slave and master cylinder at the same time though. The master cylinder goes for around $110.

You can probably do the work yourself without too much trouble.

NissanZ03

iTrader: (12)

Do you have an 07? If so, it may be covered under warranty

sry110

iTrader: (17)

You're probably noticing this when it's really hot and/or humid outside right? I have the same thing happening on my 2006.

Navy561

yeah it was hot out that day but not the hottest this summer so it couldnt be but no its an 05 and ill take a look to see if i can do it myself

Navy561

we got a walkthrough or something for this...it seems simple just looking...two bolts and the hose right?

sry110

iTrader: (17)

I'm under the impression that the clutch hydraulic circuit has to be bled after doing this work, and I'll bet that's no easy task. Can anyone confirm this? Because if it's simple remove and replace and top off fluid then I'll be doing this myself in the near future.

knils

iTrader: (2)

It's a huge b*tch, had to replace them both when the pivot bolt inside my tranny broke and the clutch fork lever was just sticking out flopping free, which lead to the over-extension of the piston in the slave cylinder. Granted it was a much bigger job I had to pull off the tranny and such but back to the original point, it took HOURS to bleed all of the air out. And I mean hours and hours, it was almost as much of a pain as the tranny was lol. This is a known issue on our cars, the main problem is that the clutch fluid reservoir on our cars has a crappy pop-off top that won't allow proper attachment of any power bleeders. And the normal hand pump vacuum bleeders won't work on our systems either, I can't remember exactly why, it has something to do with the way our system functions. So you are stuck with the old two person pump and open/close the bleeder, and it takes AWHILE.

While I was researching for my fix I found a write up on here where a couple of drifter guys on the forum (I believe one or both was a moderator) were so fed up with doing it every time they blew a slave cylinder that they actually made a DIY write-up where they changed the clutch fluid reservoir to a specific one where you can hook up a power bleeder. Even these guys said it took them hours and hours the traditional way and they know their stuff. To be honest if I had it to do over again and had the extra $80 I would definitely do this conversion. The hours of time you save as well as the fact that if you don't have a helper you are screwed, makes that a very easy decision.

EDIT:: Just a tip to help those who still need to do this the traditional way, the most important advice I can give you has to do with the master cylinder. Try to follow me here I don't have an illustration. Take it out of the car while still connected to the reservoir. Connect some clear tubing from the piston end of it and route it back into the reservoir creating a closed hydraulic circuit of sorts. Ensure that the hose stays submerged throughout the process. Another set of hands will help greatly, but if you don't have one as I didn't you can use a bench vise or some other improvised contraption, I duct taped it to a jack stand to hold it for example. Fill the reservoir with fluid it and operate the master cylinder by hand to bleed the air out. This process is called bench bleeding, you will know when all of the air is out when you see no bubbles in the tubing. VERY carefully remove the tubing and lower the master cylinder into the car still connected to the reservoir and filled, and install it right away. This step is ESSENTIAL because the master cylinder will not operate fully while connected to the clutch pedal. Even when the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor it will not fully evacuate the space inside the master cylinder, it still has room to go, and you will sit for hours pumping the clutch pedal trying to get the air out with no progress.


But if you are interested in the reservoir swap, here is the link that will explain everything, thanks to jasonZ-ya
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...voir-swap.html

VQdriver

iTrader: (1)

I redid my master cylinder less than 2 weeks ago. Bought a MC made by Dorman Auto via Rockauto.com. The disassembly consists of: safely putting the car on jackstands, letting all of the old grimey clutch fluid out of the slave bleeder screw taking one spring clip from the clutch pedal off the MC bracket, knocking the holding pin out, loosening 2 bolts holding the MC in place, carefully removing the hydraulic line (not allowing fluid to touch the paint - use rags etc), removing 2 bolts holding the reservoir (optional), unclamping the rubber hose and clean everything. Then swap in the new one. I had to reuse the bracket piece that connects from the MC to the clutch pedal because the Dorman one was a thicker gauge than the oem was and the pin hole wouldn't match up with the spring clip. Not a big deal. Bleeding took about 30min with the help of my brother in law. One tip for bleeding would be to bench bleed the new MC while it's off the car. This pretty much solved the problem. The slave cylinder change couldn't hurt either.