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Old May 6, 2007 | 10:44 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by AlvinHuyN
will do bro. I also have another question you might be able to answer. I tried to research this but no one can come up with a clear answer on the drop of the tokico d-spec. Some says 1" some says 1.25 and some .75" and thats scattered all over this site and vendor sites too. No one seems to have a clear answer.
I'm not sure what your question is, are you asking how much of a drop the tokico's can handle?
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Old May 6, 2007 | 11:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
I'm not sure what your question is, are you asking how much of a drop the tokico's can handle?
no, I'm asking if you knew how much the drop for the tokico dspec springs are...every vendor says a different thing from .75 to 1.25
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Old May 7, 2007 | 06:42 AM
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I guarantee you they are gonna be more on the 1.25 side, buy em!! It will slam your car!
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Old May 7, 2007 | 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by wasuber
I guarantee you they are gonna be more on the 1.25 side, buy em!! It will slam your car!
lol sometimes I wonder if you're on crack
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Old May 7, 2007 | 07:41 AM
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The number I've seen the most is 1", so expect at least that much drop. S-techs or hotchkis are probably better bets
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Old May 7, 2007 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by AlvinHuyN
lol sometimes I wonder if you're on crack
maybe but never on crack

So tell me more about what your dad suggested to get you in the driveway??
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Old May 7, 2007 | 09:34 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by wasuber
maybe but never on crack

So tell me more about what your dad suggested to get you in the driveway??
lol! You'll see...it's pretty ghetto-fabulous but....it'll work
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Old May 7, 2007 | 09:34 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
The number I've seen the most is 1", so expect at least that much drop. S-techs or hotchkis are probably better bets
Thanks bro, looking at the way things are going right now I'm planning on trying out the d-spec first and see if it's going to work. If not I guess I can always do it all over again lol
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Old May 7, 2007 | 09:45 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by AlvinHuyN
Thanks bro, looking at the way things are going right now I'm planning on trying out the d-spec first and see if it's going to work. If not I guess I can always do it all over again lol
Do it, anything less than 1" just isn't worth it IMO, I'm seriously considering swapping out to 350z s-techs soon, and I already scrape every time going into my garage.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 10:42 AM
  #30  
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I just dont wanna spend more on camber kits haha.wonderif I can get away without them with the dspec
Originally Posted by redlude97
Do it, anything less than 1" just isn't worth it IMO, I'm seriously considering swapping out to 350z s-techs soon, and I already scrape every time going into my garage.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 11:44 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by AlvinHuyN
I just dont wanna spend more on camber kits haha.wonderif I can get away without them with the dspec
Purchasing a rear kit for ANY drop is going to save you some tire wear. The eibach/spc kit rear kit can be had for $143 shipped from ajusa.com, this includes the camber arms and toe bolts. Both are relatively easy to install, and require basic tools as well as a dremel with a high speed metal cutting bit. Well worth the cost to save some tire wear.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 12:00 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
Purchasing a rear kit for ANY drop is going to save you some tire wear. The eibach/spc kit rear kit can be had for $143 shipped from ajusa.com, this includes the camber arms and toe bolts. Both are relatively easy to install, and require basic tools as well as a dremel with a high speed metal cutting bit. Well worth the cost to save some tire wear.
I thought up to .8 - ~1.0 you don't need the camber kit to get it withtin OE spec? Those prices don't look too bad though. My game plan right now is to install the Tokico D-Spec that Mark is hooking me up with an awesome price on. Then if it doesn't work out I'll keep the shocks and order some Tein H-Techs to raise her.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 12:04 PM
  #33  
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Getting within the limits of the very wide OEM specs are not optimal for wear, you should be more towards the middle of the range for optimal tire wear. With the SPC kit, I'm at -1.5 w/.05 toe with a rear drop of close to an inch
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Old May 7, 2007 | 12:05 PM
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Alvin you need to be aware the suspension on a Z is fairly aggressive and your tires are only rated for 15k anyway. you will be fine :P
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Old May 7, 2007 | 12:16 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by wasuber
Alvin you need to be aware the suspension on a Z is fairly aggressive and your tires are only rated for 15k anyway. you will be fine :P
this is the part that's killing me! lol why do good tires in wet/dry last so much less?!

Originally Posted by redlude97
Getting within the limits of the very wide OEM specs are not optimal for wear, you should be more towards the middle of the range for optimal tire wear. With the SPC kit, I'm at -1.5 w/.05 toe with a rear drop of close to an inch
So what your'e saying is I can get close to OE spec without the kit, but with the kit I can do what you are doing - custom alignment specs - which is better for tire wear than OE spec?
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Old May 7, 2007 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by AlvinHuyN
So what your'e saying is I can get close to OE spec without the kit, but with the kit I can do what you are doing - custom alignment specs - which is better for tire wear than OE spec?
My settings are within OE spec, but closer to the middle of the range, while without the camber kit, it will be close to the edge of the alignment specs. With a 1" drop you'll be at -2deg camber I'm almost sure, and your toe will also be high, somewhere in the .15 -.25 range. Neither is ideal for you since you said you don't run the car hard anyways so you won't see any advantage to such a setup. More negative camber on your conservative wheels will also make them look worse, as they will become more sunken in with the increase in camber so they won't even look close to flush. $143 is a small cost compared to the rest of the money you've dropped on the car, and arguably one of the more important aspects to correct IMO. It will pay for itself eventually
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