My fiberglass sub box build
Well, I got started Friday night, needed to borrow a jigsaw (thanks Scott). I first started out by building the three sides (back, front, and bottom) inside the car. Then, the next day, I realized I won't be able to get the stupid box out of the car so I can do the top.
You can tell in the pics where I had to cut it in half then fiberglass the two halves together. 
Anyway, here are some pics.






I'm just waiting for the touch up spots of bondo to dry so I can finish up the sanding. Then it'll be primer, more sanding, then paint!
Disclaimer: I've never done this before.

Anyway, here are some pics.
I'm just waiting for the touch up spots of bondo to dry so I can finish up the sanding. Then it'll be primer, more sanding, then paint!
Disclaimer: I've never done this before.
if you could not lift it out in one piece, how are you gunna get it back in in one piece, lol?
btw- make a spreader for the bondo. gets it alot smoother than your fingers, haha. thin piece of plastic works or shell out like $1.50 and get a pack of ones designed for it. smoother it is, less sanding. less sanding= more fun time!
btw- make a spreader for the bondo. gets it alot smoother than your fingers, haha. thin piece of plastic works or shell out like $1.50 and get a pack of ones designed for it. smoother it is, less sanding. less sanding= more fun time!
Last edited by overZealous1; Oct 21, 2008 at 10:06 PM.
if you could not lift it out in one piece, how are you gunna get it back in in one piece, lol?
btw- make a spreader for the bondo. gets it alot smoother than your fingers, haha. thin piece of plastic works or shell out like $1.50 and get a pack of ones designed for it. smoother it is, less sanding. less sanding= more fun time!
btw- make a spreader for the bondo. gets it alot smoother than your fingers, haha. thin piece of plastic works or shell out like $1.50 and get a pack of ones designed for it. smoother it is, less sanding. less sanding= more fun time!
I have a couple spreaders; I used my finger for the touch up spots.
After I primered it, I noticed I have a bunch of pin holes and pit marks. There are only a few (maybe 20 in total) but they're in random areas. I gotta make a run to Home Depot tomorrow and see if I can pick up some spot filler or something.
Im just saying. If your going to wrap it, then you dont really need it to be 100%. But if your going to paint it, trust me, take it somewhere to get painted. Rattle can will look like crap on there. Paint is the last thing you want to cheap out on since it is what everyone will see.
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Im just saying. If your going to wrap it, then you dont really need it to be 100%. But if your going to paint it, trust me, take it somewhere to get painted. Rattle can will look like crap on there. Paint is the last thing you want to cheap out on since it is what everyone will see.

Ive painted wheels before too. And I know that I wouldnt want my speaker box to look like that. Ecspecially since rattle can clear vs auto body clear is a no brainer. Good luck.
Yes, I have created something for more than an idea. I told you that I did the same thing for one of my cars. And I also told you that if you wanted it to look good that you may want to have a shop finish it up (where they have the tools and the knowledge to make it look good). YOU were the one that acted as if you had fantastic auto body skills. And I was not trying to act like a ********, just trying to help you out on making your hard work look good, and not make the same mistake I did. But its YOUR car, and YOUR lumpy speaker box. Next time, I guess Ill just keep my mouth shut when someone thinks they know what they are doing, apparently you did.


