Anybody looking for 19" tires or Wheel Spacers?
Decided to keep the tires. Got them mounted up and will prob just run them down.
Spacers are still for sale though. They don't work with my new wheels, so just want them out of here.
Price Drop to: $110
Spacers are still for sale though. They don't work with my new wheels, so just want them out of here.
Price Drop to: $110
Last edited by zSupreme7; Feb 4, 2009 at 03:25 PM.
why do they not work? are the stock studs sticking through the spacer and hitting the back of your wheel? I had this issue when I first tried installing my spacers.
i just had that issue and had to grind the stock studs down (thanks pete!).. they can work, just needs some grindin! either that, or you can go buy some shorter studs to replace the stock ones.
i just had that issue and had to grind the stock studs down (thanks pete!).. they can work, just needs some grindin! either that, or you can go buy some shorter studs to replace the stock ones.
I would never grind down the stock studs...that's a short-sighted band-aid imo. OEM wheels and most aftermarket wheels (Volk/Work/PIAA, etc...) have the pockets on the back of the hub...some do not, unfortunately.
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Nobody, besides you, thinks it's a good idea to grind down the stock studs. What do you do when you want to run any wheels without those spacers on? Yeah, you need to hammer those out and replace all the studs. Do it now, and do it right....or do it later and do something ghetto in the meantime. I know you're trying to help, but that kind of "advice" shouldn't be given to anyone. Some clueless noob might actually be dumb/lazy enough to take it.
The ONLY option, when spacers with built-in studs don't work, is to install extended studs with that style of spacers.
Last edited by zSupreme7; Feb 4, 2009 at 04:17 PM.
depends on your wheel mang. it's a possibility, you won't know for sure until you throw the spacer on your hub and see if the stock studs make contact with the back of your wheel.
call it ghetto if you want, but not lazy. it's definitely not the lazy route, its the DIY route (ok, so slightly lazy, it's the DIY route that I didn't have the tools to do, so I got help with it) and it is a little more risky. I was hit with a shitty situation since they hit the back of my wheel so I had them grinded down. if you were really just that set on doing things absolutely right you would buy wheels with proper offsets in the first place.
if I have to swap wheels down the road I will spend the 40$ and get new studs, not a big deal. I don't intend to swap wheels so it seems viable to me - you just have to make sure it's done right safely with enough tread stickin through the nut afterwards.
it's advice that you clearly didn't want, but it works for some people. I'm not the first or the last that went that route, so to say I'm the only one is another unfair statement.
call it ghetto if you want, but not lazy. it's definitely not the lazy route, its the DIY route (ok, so slightly lazy, it's the DIY route that I didn't have the tools to do, so I got help with it) and it is a little more risky. I was hit with a shitty situation since they hit the back of my wheel so I had them grinded down. if you were really just that set on doing things absolutely right you would buy wheels with proper offsets in the first place.
if I have to swap wheels down the road I will spend the 40$ and get new studs, not a big deal. I don't intend to swap wheels so it seems viable to me - you just have to make sure it's done right safely with enough tread stickin through the nut afterwards.
it's advice that you clearly didn't want, but it works for some people. I'm not the first or the last that went that route, so to say I'm the only one is another unfair statement.
old phone - shitty pic, but this is what the problem for me was. most wheels will have a place for the extra stud length sticking out to hide in, but the wheels I have (19" tsw mondello) hit the stud.
*edit* to get an idea you can see that there are about 7-9 treads sticking through the nut after they had been torqued down. 3-4 of them had to be shaved off in order for the wheel to sit proper.
*edit* to get an idea you can see that there are about 7-9 treads sticking through the nut after they had been torqued down. 3-4 of them had to be shaved off in order for the wheel to sit proper.
Last edited by Entaille; Feb 4, 2009 at 04:40 PM.
call it ghetto if you want, but not lazy. it's definitely not the lazy route, its the DIY route (ok, so slightly lazy, it's the DIY route that I didn't have the tools to do, so I got help with it) and it is a little more risky. I was hit with a shitty situation since they hit the back of my wheel so I had them grinded down. if you were really just that set on doing things absolutely right you would buy wheels with proper offsets in the first place.
As with everything, just because someone else is doing it doesn't make it the right way.
I was actually given advice that built in studs are more trusted when it comes to spacers so I was dead set on sticking with them. assume what you want though, you're obviously right, there's only one way to do anything and that's your way.
I'm pretty sure he "is" right about this. If there was advice given on this subject and zSupreme7 gave it, and you follow it you will have 100% success. Don't put your life and the people around you at risk by taking shortcuts. Not saying cutting 3 threads off of an OEM stud bolt will make you crash but there is a reason why the right parts are made and used.
wheel spacers in general are a risk anyways, there's a reason major tire chains won't touch your car if you have them on. I'm not saying his way isn't better, but there are options. just throwin in my two cents.
do they really? I rolled in to discount tire and asked them to take my wheels off and torque my spacers down to spec because I lacked a torque wrench, they told me I wasn't welcome there and they were afraid of liability, its all over their website too. they said they won't touch a car with spacers but they can torque down the wheel without taking them off (yeah that helps a lot, thanks, I'll just roll my "who knows how well it's torqued grinded down spacers" car out of here, ********* lol)
Had to borrow a co workers.
*edit* in regards to the "what if" I have to roll on OEM wheels if a wheel bends / cracks etc, it won't matter. they will bolt to the spacer all the same. they would still bolt down if I had to take the spacer off, too.
anyways supreme - no hard feelings, I was just trying to share some friendly advice on something I experienced and a resolution that worked for me. we can agree to disagree on the viability of it, and I'll tell you you were right if it's ever a burden down the road.
Had to borrow a co workers.
*edit* in regards to the "what if" I have to roll on OEM wheels if a wheel bends / cracks etc, it won't matter. they will bolt to the spacer all the same. they would still bolt down if I had to take the spacer off, too.
anyways supreme - no hard feelings, I was just trying to share some friendly advice on something I experienced and a resolution that worked for me. we can agree to disagree on the viability of it, and I'll tell you you were right if it's ever a burden down the road.
Last edited by Entaille; Feb 4, 2009 at 06:01 PM.
No worries...no hard feelings at all. Nothing wrong with a debate, unless someone gets personal (like we've seen elsewhere, recently). I'm not even really talking about the safety of what you did. I'm saying by doing less now, in the end, you'll ultimately end up doing more than if you just did it right to begin with. Just so we're clear, what I described isn't my way. It's how both styles of spacers are intended to work, according to the manufacturers' R&D and instructions. Alrighty then.


